Who needs a MM cartridge type when we have MC?


Dear friends: who really needs an MM type phono cartridge?, well I will try to share/explain with you what are my experiences about and I hope too that many of you could enrich the topic/subject with your own experiences.

For some years ( in this forum ) and time to time I posted that the MM type cartridge quality sound is better than we know or that we think and like four months ago I start a thread about: http://forum.audiogon.com/cgi-bin/fr.pl?eanlg&1173550723&openusid&zzRauliruegas&4&5#Rauliruegas where we analyse some MM type cartridges.

Well, in the last 10-12 months I buy something like 30+ different MM type phono cartridges ( you can read in my virtual system which ones. ) and I’m still doing it. The purpose of this fact ( “ buy it “ ) is for one way to confirm or not if really those MM type cartridges are good for us ( music lovers ) and at the same time learn about MM vs MC cartridges, as a fact I learn many things other than MM/MC cartridge subject.

If we take a look to the Agon analog members at least 90% of them use ( only ) MC phono cartridges, if we take a look to the “ professional reviewers “ ( TAS, Stereophile, Positive Feedback, Enjoy the Music, etc, etc, ) 95% ( at least ) of them use only MC cartridges ( well I know that for example: REG and NG of TAS and RJR of Stereophile use only MM type cartridges!!!!!!!! ) , if we take a look to the phono cartridge manufacturers more than 90% of them build/design for MC cartridges and if you speak with audio dealers almost all will tell you that the MC cartridges is the way to go.

So, who are wrong/right, the few ( like me ) that speak that the MM type is a very good alternative or the “ whole “ cartridge industry that think and support the MC cartridge only valid alternative?

IMHO I think that both groups are not totally wrong/right and that the subject is not who is wrong/right but that the subject is : KNOW-HOW or NON KNOW-HOW about.

Many years ago when I was introduced to the “ high end “ the cartridges were almost MM type ones: Shure, Stanton, Pickering, Empire, etc, etc. In those time I remember that one dealer told me that if I really want to be nearest to the music I have to buy the Empire 4000 D ( they say for 4-channel reproduction as well. ) and this was truly my first encounter with a “ high end cartridge “, I buy the 4000D I for 70.00 dls ( I can’t pay 150.00 for the D III. ), btw the specs of these Empire cartridges were impressive even today, look: frequency response: 5-50,000Hz, channel separation: 35db, tracking force range: 0.25grs to 1.25grs!!!!!!!!, just impressive, but there are some cartridges which frequency response goes to 100,000Hz!!!!!!!!!!

I start to learn about and I follow to buying other MM type cartridges ( in those times I never imagine nothing about MC cartridges: I don’t imagine of its existence!!!. ) like AKG, Micro Acoustics, ADC, B&O, Audio Technica, Sonus, etc, etc.

Years latter the same dealer told me about the MC marvelous cartridges and he introduce me to the Denon-103 following with the 103-D and the Fulton High performance, so I start to buy and hear MC cartridges. I start to read audio magazines about either cartridge type: MM and Mc ones.

I have to make changes in my audio system ( because of the low output of the MC cartridges and because I was learning how to improve the performance of my audio system ) and I follow what the reviewers/audio dealers “ speak “ about, I was un-experienced !!!!!!!, I was learning ( well I’m yet. ).

I can tell you many good/bad histories about but I don’t want that the thread was/is boring for you, so please let me tell you what I learn and where I’m standing today about:

over the years I invested thousands of dollars on several top “ high end “ MC cartridges, from the Sumiko Celebration passing for Lyras, Koetsu, Van denHul, to Allaerts ones ( just name it and I can tell that I own or owned. ), what I already invest on MC cartridges represent almost 70-80% price of my audio system.

Suddenly I stop buying MC cartridges and decide to start again with some of the MM type cartridges that I already own and what I heard motivate me to start the search for more of those “ hidden jewels “ that are ( here and now ) the MM phono cartridges and learn why are so good and how to obtain its best quality sound reproduction ( as a fact I learn many things other than MM cartridge about. ).

I don’t start this “ finding “ like a contest between MC and MM type cartridges.
The MC cartridges are as good as we already know and this is not the subject here, the subject is about MM type quality performance and how achieve the best with those cartridges.

First than all I try to identify and understand the most important characteristics ( and what they “ means “. ) of the MM type cartridges ( something that in part I already have it because our phonolinepreamp design needs. ) and its differences with the MC ones.

Well, first than all is that are high output cartridges, very high compliance ones ( 50cu is not rare. ), low or very low tracking force ones, likes 47kOhms and up, susceptible to some capacitance changes, user stylus replacement, sometimes we can use a different replacement stylus making an improvement with out the necessity to buy the next top model in the cartridge line , low and very low weight cartridges, almost all of them are build of plastic material with aluminum cantilever and with eliptical or “ old “ line contact stylus ( shibata ) ( here we don’t find: Jade/Coral/Titanium/etc, bodies or sophisticated build material cantilevers and sophisticated stylus shape. ), very very… what I say? Extremely low prices from 40.00 to 300.00 dls!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!, well one of my cartridges I buy it for 8.99 dls ( one month ago ): WOW!!!!!!, so any one of you can/could have/buy ten to twenty MM cartridges for the price of one of the MC cartridge you own today and the good notice is that is a chance that those 10-20 MM type cartridges even the quality performance of your MC cartridge or beat it.

Other characteristics is that the builders show how proud they were/are on its MM type cartridges design, almost all those cartridges comes with a first rate box, comes with charts/diagrams of its frequency response and cartridge channel separation ( where they tell us which test recording use it, with which VTF, at which temperature, etc, etc. ), comes with a very wide explanation of the why’s and how’s of its design and the usual explanation to mount the cartridge along with a very wide list of specifications ( that were the envy of any of today MC ones where sometimes we really don’t know nothing about. ), comes with a set of screws/nuts, comes with a stylus brush and even with stylus cleaning fluid!!!!!!!!!, my GOD. Well, there are cartridges like the Supex SM 100MK2 that comes with two different stylus!!!! One with spherical and one with elliptical/shibata shape and dear friends all those in the same low low price!!!!!!!!!!!

Almost all the cartridges I own you can find it through Ebay and Agon and through cartridge dealers and don’t worry if you loose/broke the stylus cartridge or you find the cartridge but with out stylus, you always can/could find the stylus replacement, no problem about there are some stylus and cartridge sources.

When I’m talking about MM type cartridges I’m refer to different types: moving magnet, moving iron, moving flux, electret, variable reluctance, induced magnet, etc, etc. ( here is not the place to explain the differences on all those MM type cartridges. Maybe on other future thread. ).

I made all my very long ( time consuming ) cartridge tests using four different TT’s: Acoustic Signature Analog One MK2, Micro Seiki RX-5000, Luxman PD 310 and Technics SP-10 MK2, I use only removable headshell S and J shape tonearms with 15mm on overhang, I use different material build/ shape design /weight headshells. I test each cartridge in at least three different tonearms and some times in 3-4 different headshells till I find the “ right “ match where the cartridge perform the best, no I’m not saying that I already finish or that I already find the “ perfect “ match: cartridge/headshell/tonearm but I think I’m near that ideal target.

Through my testing experience I learn/ confirm that trying to find the right tonearm/headshell for any cartridge is well worth the effort and more important that be changing the TT. When I switch from a TT to another different one the changes on the quality cartridge performance were/are minimal in comparison to a change in the tonearm/headshell, this fact was consistent with any of those cartridges including MC ones.

So after the Phonolinepreamplifier IMHO the tonearm/headshell match for any cartridge is the more important subject, it is so important and complex that in the same tonearm ( with the same headshell wires ) but with different headshell ( even when the headshell weight were the same ) shape or build material headshell the quality cartridge performance can/could be way different.

All those experiences told me that chances are that the cartridge that you own ( MC or MM ) is not performing at its best because chances are that the tonearm you own is not the best match for that cartridge!!!!!!, so imagine what do you can/could hear when your cartridge is or will be on the right tonearm???!!!!!!!!, IMHO there are ( till today ) no single ( any type at any price ) perfect universal tonearm. IMHO there is no “ the best tonearm “, what exist or could exist is a “ best tonearm match for “ that “ cartridge “, but that’s all. Of course that are “ lucky “ tonearms that are very good match for more than one cartridge but don’t for every single cartridge.

I posted several times that I’m not a tonearm collector, that I own all those tonearms to have alternatives for my cartridges and with removable headshells my 15 tonearms are really like 100+ tonearms : a very wide options/alternatives for almost any cartridge!!!!!!

You can find several of these MM type cartridges new brand or NOS like: Ortofon, Nagaoka, Audio Technica, Astatic, B&O, Rega, Empire, Sonus Reson,Goldring,Clearaudio, Grado, Shelter, Garrot, etc. and all of them second hand in very good operational condition. As a fact I buy two and even three cartridges of the same model in some of the cartridges ( so right now I have some samples that I think I don’t use any more. ) to prevent that one of them arrive in non operational condition but I’m glad to say that all them arrive in very fine conditions. I buy one or two of the cartridges with no stylus or with the stylus out of work but I don’t have any trouble because I could find the stylus replacement on different sources and in some case the original new replacement.

All these buy/find cartridges was very time consuming and we have to have a lot of patience and a little lucky to obtain what we are looking for but I can asure you that is worth of it.

Ok, I think it is time to share my performance cartridge findings:

first we have to have a Phonolinepreamplifier with a very good MM phono stage ( at least at the same level that the MC stage. ). I’m lucky because my Phonolinepreamplifier has two independent phono stages, one for the MM and one for MC: both were designed for the specifics needs of each cartridge type, MM or MC that have different needs.

we need a decent TT and decent tonearm.

we have to load the MM cartridges not at 47K but at 100K ( at least 75K not less. ).

I find that using 47K ( a standard manufacture recommendation ) prevent to obtain the best quality performance, 100K make the difference. I try this with all those MM type cartridges and in all of them I achieve the best performance with 100K load impedance.

I find too that using the manufacturer capacitance advise not always is for the better, till “ the end of the day “ I find that between 100-150pf ( total capacitance including cable capacitance. ) all the cartridges performs at its best.

I start to change the load impedance on MM cartridges like a synonymous that what many of us made with MC cartridges where we try with different load impedance values, latter I read on the Empire 4000 DIII that the precise load impedance must be 100kOhms and in a white paper of some Grace F9 tests the used impedance value was 100kOhms, the same that I read on other operational MM cartridge manual and my ears tell/told me that 100kOhms is “ the value “.

Before I go on I want to remember you that several of those MM type cartridges ( almost all ) were build more than 30+ years ago!!!!!!!! and today performs at the same top quality level than today MC/MM top quality cartridges!!!!!, any brand at any price and in some ways beat it.

I use 4-5 recordings that I know very well and that give me the right answers to know that any cartridge is performing at its best or near it. Many times what I heard through those recordings were fine: everything were on target however the music don’t come “ alive “ don’t “ tell me “ nothing, I was not feeling the emotion that the music can communicate. In those cartridge cases I have to try it in other tonearm and/or with a different headshell till the “ feelings comes “ and only when this was achieved I then was satisfied.

All the tests were made with a volume level ( SPL ) where the recording “ shines “ and comes alive like in a live event. Sometimes changing the volume level by 1-1.5 db fixed everything.

Of course that the people that in a regular manner attend to hear/heard live music it will be more easy to know when something is right or wrong.

Well, Raul go on!!: one characteristic on the MM cartridges set-up was that almost all them likes to ride with a positive ( little/small ) VTA only the Grace Ruby and F9E and Sonus Gold Blue likes a negative VTA , on the other hand with the Nagaoka MP 50 Super and the Ortofon’s I use a flat VTA.

Regarding the VTF I use the manufacturer advise and sometimes 0.1+grs.
Of course that I made fine tuning through moderate changes in the Azymuth and for anti-skate I use between half/third VTF value.

I use different material build headshells: aluminum, composite aluminum, magnesium, composite magnesium, ceramic, wood and non magnetic stainless steel, these cartridges comes from Audio Technica, Denon, SAEC, Technics, Fidelity Research, Belldream, Grace, Nagaoka, Koetsu, Dynavector and Audiocraft.
All of them but the wood made ( the wood does not likes to any cartridge. ) very good job . It is here where a cartridge could seems good or very good depending of the headshell where is mounted and the tonearm.
Example, I have hard time with some of those cartridge like the Audio Technica AT 20SS where its performance was on the bright sound that sometimes was harsh till I find that the ceramic headshell was/is the right match now this cartridge perform beautiful, something similar happen with the Nagaoka ( Jeweltone in Japan ), Shelter , Grace, Garrot , AKG and B&O but when were mounted in the right headshell/tonearm all them performs great.

Other things that you have to know: I use two different cooper headshell wires, both very neutral and with similar “ sound “ and I use three different phono cables, all three very neutral too with some differences on the sound performance but nothing that “ makes the difference “ on the quality sound of any of my cartridges, either MM or MC, btw I know extremely well those phono cables: Analysis Plus, Harmonic Technologies and Kimber Kable ( all three the silver models. ), finally and don’t less important is that those phono cables were wired in balanced way to take advantage of my Phonolinepreamp fully balanced design.

What do you note the first time you put your MM cartridge on the record?, well a total absence of noise/hum or the like that you have through your MC cartridges ( and that is not a cartridge problem but a Phonolinepreamp problem due to the low output of the MC cartridges. ), a dead silent black ( beautiful ) soundstage where appear the MUSIC performance, this experience alone is worth it.

The second and maybe the most important MM cartridge characteristic is that you hear/heard the MUSIC flow/run extremely “ easy “ with no distracting sound distortions/artifacts ( I can’t explain exactly this very important subject but it is wonderful ) even you can hear/heard “ sounds/notes “ that you never before heard it and you even don’t know exist on the recording: what a experience!!!!!!!!!!!

IMHO I think that the MUSIC run so easily through a MM cartridge due ( between other facts ) to its very high compliance characteristic on almost any MM cartridge.

This very high compliance permit ( between other things like be less sensitive to out-center hole records. ) to these cartridges stay always in contact with the groove and never loose that groove contact not even on the grooves that were recorded at very high velocity, something that a low/medium cartridge compliance can’t achieve, due to this low/medium compliance characteristic the MC cartridges loose ( time to time and depending of the recorded velocity ) groove contact ( minute extremely minute loose contact, but exist. ) and the quality sound performance suffer about and we can hear it, the same pass with the MC cartridges when are playing the inner grooves on a record instead the very high compliance MM cartridges because has better tracking drive perform better than the MC ones at inner record grooves and here too we can hear it.

Btw, some Agoners ask very worried ( on more than one Agon thread ) that its cartridge can’t track ( clean ) the cannons on the 1812 Telarc recording and usually the answers that different people posted were something like this: “””” don’t worry about other than that Telarc recording no other commercial recording comes recorded at that so high velocity, if you don’t have trouble with other of your LP’s then stay calm. “””””

Well, this standard answer have some “ sense “ but the people ( like me ) that already has/have the experience to hear/heard a MM or MC ( like the Ortofon MC 2000 or the Denon DS1, high compliance Mc cartridges. ) cartridge that pass easily the 1812 Telarc test can tell us that those cartridges make a huge difference in the quality sound reproduction of any “ normal “ recording, so it is more important that what we think to have a better cartridge tracking groove drive!!!!

There are many facts around the MM cartridge subject but till we try it in the right set-up it will be ( for some people ) difficult to understand “ those beauties “. Something that I admire on the MM cartridges is how ( almost all of them ) they handle the frequency extremes: the low bass with the right pitch/heft/tight/vivid with no colorations of the kind “ organic !!” that many non know-how people speak about, the highs neutral/open/transparent/airy believable like the live music, these frequency extremes handle make that the MUSIC flow in our minds to wake up our feelings/emotions that at “ the end of the day “ is all what a music lover is looking for.
These not means that these cartridges don’t shine on the midrange because they do too and they have very good soundstage but here is more system/room dependent.

Well we have a very good alternative on the ( very low price ) MM type cartridges to achieve that music target and I’m not saying that you change your MC cartridge for a MM one: NO, what I’m trying to tell you is that it is worth to have ( as many you can buy/find ) the MM type cartridges along your MC ones

I want to tell you that I can live happy with any of those MM cartridges and I’m not saying with this that all of them perform at the same quality level NO!! what I’m saying is that all of them are very good performers, all of them approach you nearest to the music.

If you ask me which one is the best I can tell you that this will be a very hard “ call “ an almost impossible to decide, I think that I can make a difference between the very good ones and the stellar ones where IMHO the next cartridges belongs to this group:

Audio Technica ATML 170 and 180 OCC, Grado The Amber Tribute, Grace Ruby, Garrot P77, Nagaoka MP-50 Super, B&O MMC2 and MMC20CL, AKG P8ES SuperNova, Reson Reca ,Astatic MF-100 and Stanton LZS 981.

There are other ones that are really near this group: ADC Astrion, Supex MF-100 MK2, Micro Acoustics MA630/830, Empire 750 LTD and 600LAC, Sonus Dimension 5, Astatic MF-200 and 300 and the Acutex 320III.

The other ones are very good too but less refined ones.
I try too ( owned or borrowed for a friend ) the Shure IV and VMR, Music maker 2-3 and Clearaudio Virtuoso/Maestro, from these I could recommended only the Clearaudios the Shure’s and Music Maker are almost mediocre ones performers.
I forgot I try to the B&O Soundsmith versions, well this cartridges are good but are different from the original B&O ( that I prefer. ) due that the Sounsmith ones use ruby cantilevers instead the original B&O sapphire ones that for what I tested sounds more natural and less hi-fi like the ruby ones.

What I learn other that the importance on the quality sound reproduction through MM type cartridges?, well that unfortunately the advance in the design looking for a better quality cartridge performers advance almost nothing either on MM and MC cartridges.

Yes, today we have different/advanced body cartridge materials, different cantilever build materials, different stylus shape/profile, different, different,,,,different, but the quality sound reproduction is almost the same with cartridges build 30+ years ago and this is a fact. The same occur with TT’s and tonearms. Is sad to speak in this way but it is what we have today. Please, I’m not saying that some cartridges designs don’t grow up because they did it, example: Koetsu they today Koetsu’s are better performers that the old ones but against other cartridges the Koetsu ones don’t advance and many old and today cartridges MM/MC beat them easily.

Where I think the audio industry grow-up for the better are in electronic audio items ( like the Phonolinepreamps ), speakers and room treatment, but this is only my HO.

I know that there are many things that I forgot and many other things that we have to think about but what you can read here is IMHO a good point to start.

Regards and enjoy the music.
Raul.
Ag insider logo xs@2xrauliruegas
Hi: This is for your daugther: http://www.lpgear.com/product/LPGAT95SE.html

and this one for you:

http://www.lpgear.com/product/LPGAT95SE.html

R.
Dear Raul,
All right but now I´m confused. I came back to AudigoN after years of silence, so I may have missed this ?
Reading your thread was the most interesting thing in the net for a long time, alongside Vic´s Reso-Mat that I bought last winter.
And taking notice of your impressive gear and army of cartridges and knowledge & experience over the decades I thought: sure that man is a scientist, a professor in fact.

Anyway, I´m very pleased that you will purchase a TERMINATOR.

I´ve just listened "Moon, Turn the Tides... Gently Gently Away" from Electric Ladyland (1968) by The Jimi Hendrix Experience. Quite happy listening experience from that German 80´s reissue, not too noisy and fantastic dynamics !
Hendrix was a professor too.

Thank you.

HEADS UP! Goldring G800 fans,

I'm sure that a re-tip from Axel is by far the best way to get the highest degree of performance from the G800.

However, I have purchased three of these, and am quite enamored with their sound. I think of it as a 'virtual' rather than an 'actual' re-tip. N.B., the ad says elliptical but "QD" on the Astatic package has always meant "Shibata", AFAIK.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/380466435565?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

John
Hi John, 'virtual' I own Anna (Ortofon) and 'actual' I posted my G800 to Axel with the instruction: 'the same as Raul'. But I added 'no exotic cantilever/stylus' because I
have no idea what Raul ordered or , more 'actual', what his retip will cost . BTW I am not sure if the stylus from G820 will fit the G800. There are 3 versions of
G800 with their own nomenclature for the styli. Raul's G800 is G 800 E super and was posted to Axel by the seller ( pick-up naalden.nl).

hI nANDRIC,

mY 'virtual' G800 styli are NOS Astatic replacements made for the G800 SuperE(110ESE). They are available on eBay from time to time and I hope give a little taste of the high end sound of an Axel re-tip. Pretty sure they have a Shibata stylus and an aluminum cantilever. Right now making beautiful music and tracking like a champ at 1.4 grams on my 'actual' TT.

John
Hi John, I was not aware about those Astatic replacements
for the G 800 otherwise I would try those first. But consudering the price of both , the cart and the stylus, you have probable discovered the 'best buy' in the history of this thread.

Regards,
Addendum, I should of course say: Raul and you probable discovered the 'best buy' in the history, etc. Sorry Raul. BTW we speak about the 'aluminum cantilever' as if this kind is somehow inferior in comparison to the 'exotic kinds'. But 'aluminum' as such is a misnomer in this context because the fact is that in all better carts some kind of 'alloy' is used. Usually magnesium/alumunum alloy. Our Professor mentioned even NASA in the context of the cantilevers by Stanton or Empire (?). So those are also 'high tech' materials. Anyway Raul, Halcro and I are very much impressed by Axel's 'aluminum' cantilever.
Dear Jbethree: There are several after market stylus replacement coming from different " sorces " some of them are very good because were OEM versions. I think I never had in hand the Astatic you named but I read some where that are in the small group of " very good " stylus replacement.

The G800 is so good that even with out " stylus " can dance!!!

As you said a champ as a tracker, second to none.

Regards and enjoy the music,
R.
Dear nandric: I'm losted with all the cartridges Axel has with and on what I ask on cantilever/stylus.

I'm asking him that email me a list with that information in all his work he did it with my cartridges. I have no answer yet.

Regards and enjoy the music,
R.
Dear friends: Sorry to disturb you all again.

Please do it a favor and buy that G800 cartridge for " penauts "/30.00 while it last. IMHO this is the best time to do it and as Jbthree posted the rewards are huge really huge and almost " incredible " on what this Goldring very humble and unknow gem can do for the music for your music.

Btw, Nandric the G820 is a little different and you can't interchange ( I think ) its stylus, my 820 sample is with Axel too.

Regards and enjoy the music,
R.
Dear Nandric: +++++ " the 'best buy' in the history, etc. " +++++

Through the years almost always appear " best buy " gems, I don't know if you remember that other than me some one else bought it the Astatic MF-300-200?? for $8.00 !!!! and I think this took the title of " best buy " till today. As today not many of you care about and after months/years when we " discovery " that the Astatic MFs are top performers now no one can find out aat any price. IMHO the Goldring could be in that status quo too.

regards and enjoy the music,
R.
Btw, I think I have a " new " winner on hand, let me finish the evaluation tests to confirm and for I can share about.

R.
Dear Raul, 'I am losted with all the cartridges Axel has...', etc. But I am, and I assume others are interested to read about cantilevers and styli differences. We are well informed about the aluminum/line contact combo but not about : boron, sapphire (aka ruby) and beryllium cantilevers. The only stylus kind that Axel can't provide is the micro ridge. So Axel's offerings are not so complex as you imply. Deed you try sapphire, boron and beryllium?
Those are the 'exotic' kinds and we all are of course interested in everything 'exotic'.

Regards,
Dear Raul, regarding the cartridge ***best buy*** status it may be I who you referred to, who purchased a NOS Astatic MF-200 for USD 9.99, complete with packaging, jewel box/tools/spec sheet, and no need to purchase a stylus to make it complete :)

Is there a source for the goldring g800, beyond that auction site?

Jim
The M320 III STR with original diamond and Axel's refreshed suspension is a killer. It has slam similar to M420 STR, but is more natural, nuanced, and refined all across FR. There is better front-to-back layering, and no sense of exaggeration as with M420/415. It is a blend of the best of MC and MM/MI characteristics.

Dear Dgarretson,

Are you referring to the M320 LPM, aka "longnose" or the earlier model? Would you mind sharing the cost of the suspension refresh?

Thanks

John
Dear Fleib, I am not sure what you mean with 'that consideration is specific to each cart.' If you mean with 'consideration' cantilever/stylus combo than I can ask you about all those efforts you made with different styli for the same cart.
Because Raul posted so many carts to Axel I assume that he also wanted to try different cantilevers/styli combos. If this is the case than he can tell us something about the
cantilevers. We are informed only about aluminum/ line contact. For those who intend to try Axel's upgrade for their carts such info must be very interesting. I myself
got for my Virtuoso the aluminum and boron kind but would like to know about sapphire and beryllium. For those who are familiar with Ledermann's ruby cantilever the comparison with Axel's sapphire cantilever should also be
very interesting I assume(Axel repairs all B&O carts > sapphire).

Regards,
David, Fantastic news from ACUTEX M320 III STR ! I´m happy it found good home and best possible arm. Raul recommended it and I had the feeling that it fits the arm just fine.
Glad you´re enjoying. Meanwhile I´ll keep on searching for another...
Cheers
John, this is a flat-nose M320. The repair was EUR 87 delivered-- an excellent value to get this cartridge back up on its hinds. I'm unsure but it looks like a new armature tab telescope/collar was fitted to the original tip. Next step is to send Axel a Technics EPC-300MC for rebuild.

A dilemma for Grace owners: I'm torn between repairing a Grace F9 with broken cantilever, or going for the Soundsmith Ruby OCL that comes complete with holder. My reason for considering the turn-key SS option is that the plastic holder with the broken stylus may not be a good foundation for a rebuild. Unlike other F9 stylus holders that I've seen photographed, this one is rectangular and projects forward of the stylus tip. The plastic tabs along the sides of the cartridge body are very short and don't hug the cartridge too well, allowing some rotational play in azimuth. Here it is:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/300762144739?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

It would be conceivable after retip to secure the holder to the cartridge with glue. Is anyone familiar with this style of holder? It is translucent green and marked with a gold "E" at top front center. Perhaps it's an aftermarket replacement.
Nandric, The stylus/cantilever makes a very large contribution to the sound of each particular cartridge. Although there are generalizations we can make about cantilever material or stylus profile, the application is by no means universal to all generators. Part of cart design is manipulating parameters to achieve desired voicing. If that voicing is changed by using a different cantilever material, it may or may not be an improvement.

It's unfortunate that your alum/boron experience via Axel was unproductive in illustrating cantilever differences. I think the experience gave you an erroneous notion about implications. Axel combined tip and cantilever to give you similar sound. A maestro uses a boron/micro ridge and increased wood body to give a different sound. That is the only difference between the carts. I suspect that a maestro stylus on a virtuoso would be an improvement, but does it need the additional wood? While I might prefer the detail and exactness, someone else might prefer warmth.

Alas, it's not so simple. Different materials have varying mass and rigidity so they resonate and flex differently. This combines with the voice of the particular generator and results could be unexpected. For instance, a high inductance cart might use cantilever resonance to augment treble. Eliminate that resonance and FR suffers.
Regards,
David,

This may not help your dilemma. My F9E purchased new around 1984 has the original rounded stylus assembly and is still mounted on my Phase Linear 8000 TT, which has not spun an LP in almost 25 years (perfect sound forever, you know). Can't say if the angular assembly is aftermarket or a later OEM version.

As far as the 9E vs. the Ruby; the 9E was a huge improvement over the ADC XLM mkII that it replaced. However, each time I heard the Ruby in a showroom or someone else's system, I knew that I had made a mistake by not spending the extra $50.00 for the Ruby. I could have easily afforded it but I cheaped out and then over 20 years of digital ensued.

My old F9E has pretty low hours, so when and if I put it into my cartridge rotation, I will definitely correct the error of my youth and buy the Soundsmith Ruby stylus assembly.

John
Dear Dean_man: Yes, those 9.99 for the MF-200 were just " fantastic ".
I hope you are enjoying your Astatic one.

Regards and enjoy the music,
R.
Dear Rnadell: There is no G800 source I know other than ebay/agon.

Regards and enjoy the music,
R.
Dear friends: As I posted here it is ( just confirmed after evaluation. ) an unexpected/unknowed " new " winner vintage MM cartridge the: PIONEER PC-400.

A humble and ugly cartridge body, it looks like another one of the pile with nothing to look twice.

Who say that conical stylus shape is a mediocre design or that can't shine in anyway or dimished a cartridge because that kind of stylus shape?, well the PC-400 comes with a bonded o.5mil conical diamond in a " Vacuum evaporation " beryllium cantilever!!!: whatkind of combination!

2.5mv with a frequency response that goes from 10hz to 40Khz with a high compliance suspension that runs at 1.5grs.. The cartridge is a light weight one at 4.0grs, load impedance: 30k-100k.

An extraordinary " rider " ( the oposite to the poor tracker FR6SE. ) with a natural an accurate tonal balance and with a dynamic explosiveness that is more related to a good LOMC than to an MM design. As afact this " surprising " good Pioneer shares the best you can ask in a LOMC cartridge with what we admire from the best MM/MI designs.
Top to bottom near perfect.

How is that through the years no one brought it the Pionner to us, I for one never heard or read nothing on this Pioneer PC-400 and I bought it on ebay only by " curiosity " when I read in the auction " beryllium cantilever " that in theory is reserved to the very top cartridge designs on those old times but " alas " that this humble design has in reality no " sign " of humility when start to sings.

When you hear the Pioneer PC-400 your jaws just dropped and can't stop to enjoy its music sound: pure adrenaline! for our spirit, a heaven's " maná ".

What kind of cartridge generators were designed in those old times!!!, almost nothing today compares against cartridges like this Pioneer PC-400.

OPf course you have to hear it and better yet: to own it!

regards and enjoy the music,
R.
Raul,

Intriguing and pleased to see that you have found a new best cartridge. How does the PC-400 stack up against the PC-1000 MkII and in what areas do you feel it surpasses this sterling model? Fascinated to hear your opinion here.

As always...
I use REL subs which operate below the range of the main speakers and augment the bass of the woofer, not replace it. I find that many who use "subwoofers" run them with a crossover point that is too high. I start rolling off the RELs at 30 Hz so their effect is only on the bottom end. You could not use them to affect the sound of the main speakers if you wanted to as they have no facility to pass the signal THROUGH them. I do have electronic crossovers for my HSU and Nelson Reed subs but never use them to attenuate the bass signal to the main speakers. Like the previous poster I can always hear the presence of an electronic crossover and despite their theoretical advantages do not want them in the signal path.
Dear Stanwal: IMHO in almost all audio subjects alternatives exist trade-offs, which one we choose is up to each one of us: nothing is perfect till today.

As with passive electronics parts as: inductors, caps, resistors, transformers and the like the best is NO inductor/caps/resist/transfi in the audio signal but sometimes that is imposible to achieve so we have to analize alternatives to choose the one we are satisfied with the one makes less or the lower harm/degradation to the audio signal.

Same happen with active crossovers but exist a degradation " gradation " of the audio signal depending how and where we are using that active electronic crossover and of course the crossover design.

It is not the same to use the active internal subwoofer crossover that to use a FM Acoustic external one: way/wider difference!.

Now, through the years I learned about the use of subwoofers in an audio system, I understand the objectives/targets to use subwoofers: the whys we use subwoofers.

Obviously that the main and " natural " reason is to go deeper in the bass audio system management range. This characteristic always is important but exist other reasons that even the importance of it:

- not only lower bass frequency range but better quality of that bass range.

- achieve lower IMD speaker distortions. The mid bass is clean, the midrange is clean, the highs are clean: high resolution every where ( the distortions are almost gone ), and now you can really hear for the first time the MUSIC. Clean does not means analitical but means: accurate with more musical information that gives the real music " feeling ".

Intermodulation Distortions: Almost any three ways speaker ( all two ways/one way ) has it's crossover frecuency ( low driver ) between 120Hz and 450Hz. I can assume that any of ours speakers system goes down flat ( at least ) between 60Hz to 20Hz.

What does that means ?, well that a single driver has to reproduce frecuencies/harmonics from 20Hz/60Hz to 120Hz/450Hz. With that kind of frecuency range here exist a great intermodulation distortions that put it's " color " on the sound reproduction.

You have to imagine that that single woofer/driver has to reproduce, at the same " time ", a 30Hz frecuency along a 350Hz frecuency: here is where exist that IM that gives heavy distortions in what we hear ( there is no perfect driver: moving coil, electrostatic, ribbon, etc.. The speaker designers has to choose the best " trade offs ", but the distortions are there. ): less clarity, less resolution, less precision, less natural balance, less pitch, les, less, less......., and this is what we are really hearing: LESS MUSIC.

If you read any manufacturer specifications on their speakers they never " write " the value of the IM or harmonic distortions, they tell us the frecuency range and how is flat on that range but never " talk " about distortions. I think that you know that when we have a speaker frecuency specifications, say: 28Hz to 22kHz +,- 3db, that is a very nice spec, that speaker low driver don't stop at 28hZ it's goes a few hertz below that frecuency with heavy harmonic distortion that increase the IM distortion of the sound reproduction of that driver and these additional distortions have a severe degradation in the reproduction of the MUSIC.

-liberate the main amplifiers to handle that lower bass permiting a better amplifier quality performance.

- An improvement in the soundstage reproduction in all parameters: deep, front/side location, wide of the stage, etc...

- the main speakers amplifiers works best ( less distortion, more headroom, less chance of clipping, less amplifier stress, etc...) with out to handle the frecuencies range that now are handle by the dedicated subwoofers amplifiers. This is important for an SS amplifier but for the tubes ones is a must.

- Now the low bass frecuencies are handle for a dedicated driver that was build with specifics characteristics for to work in that frecuency range and this low bass driver is matched with an amplifier ( self powered subwoofers ) that was build with specifications that mates excatly what the low bass drivers needs about: frecuency response, output impedance, damping, power, etc..... You can't ask for more!!!

- Not only the IM distortion goes down but the harmonic distortion of the low driver of your main speakers goes down too, Btw, the whole harmonic distortion goes down, because ( in the case of my Velodyne's less than 0.5%: with's yours? ) ) the harmonic distortion of a well self powered designed subwoofer is usually " very low ". This means ( again ) less coloration: MORE MUSIC.

Now, IMHO any passive loadspeakers where its woofer/lows-driver crossover 120hz can achieve all those benefits with the use/system-integration of two self powered subwoofers running in true stereo fashion, this means that the main speakers not hnadle any more the low bass frequency range: this is handle where it belongs to: with the subwoofers.

In my system I don't use an external electronic crossover to split the main speakers frequency range and the subwoofer frequency range both handle it.
I use at the amplifiers input a first order slope through a very low value teflon cap along a 275 resistor. In this way I let " untouched " the audio signal handled by the main amplifiers/speakers.

The second output in my phonolinepreamp goes connected to the self electronic active crossover in the subwoofers. I made several changes/modifications in the subwoofers to achieve the lower audio signal degradation/distortions.

Stanwal, you have to try it. IMHO there is no argument against what I post other that to " live " the experience in your own system.

Btw, my choose for crossover frequency was: 76.8hz. ( I think?? ).

Regards and enjoy the music,
R.
Dear Dgob: I never heard the PC-100CMK2 but one of my favorities is the 100CMK4.
Well, differences with the Pioneer PC-400 is a gradation subject and I can't make a review right now but the main difference in between is on the dynamic performance level that shows the PC-400 and especially on that Frogman dynamics characteristic. Here the PC-400 is more " free " about and let flow that music dynamics with out restrictions, as I said it is all on gradation difference or differences. The other important difference is how the PC-400 handle the bass range and it is not only on distinction on fundamentals/harmonics or pitch but the very precise decay time that permit no bold/bloom bass but tight and powerful one, bass transients are extremely good but the MK4 is very good too. We have to experienced to understand this difference gradation on performance level.

My advise is that if you see it somewhere buy it, it is an unknow cartridge very humble an inexpensive.

After heard this really unknowed cartridge I wonder which one are out side that could perform at top quality level and no one is aware of those " hiden " gems.

Regards and enjoy the music,
R.
Dear Stanwal: I prefer the alternative I posted to the one you are using that I tryed several times.

Maybe where I worked and work hard in my system is trying to improve the system bass frequency range management, for me is a critical audio system subject and makes a paramount differences when is improved. At least is what I experienced not only in my system but in other ones.

Regards and enjoy the music,
R.
Hi Raul,

I will keep an eye out for one. Fingers crossed, my experiences and appreciations will increase with that exposure.

The 'PC-1000 MkII' shares some of your noted charasteristics of the PC-400 and I would highly recommend that you give that a listen if opportunity presents. Pioneer (as with the Glanz G series) are very good with dynamics, detail retrieval and - naturally therefore - with bass but the Technics (in a Morch DP-6 red point) still seems to me to be unique in a variety of ways and so (although my MM/MI/MF search has culminated in the Technics and Glanz selections) I will enjoy those different perspecitives: IF I ever audition the PC-400.

Thanks

As always...
Dear Dgob: +++++ " will enjoy those different perspecitives " +++++

that's all about!.

Regards and enjoy the music,
R.
Dear Timeltel: What do you know about the Pioneer PC-400 or any one of you?, thank you in advance.

Regards and enjoy the music,
R.
Regards, Raul: It was a PC-330, not the 400. There's one to be found at Top Choice Audio. Someone thinks a lot of it, $200. Flaking paint but the "beryllium" tag is still on it. 0.5 conical & 3mv output.

1973. "The people" would gather, relax (ahem) & actually listen to music. Frisbees in the park. Robed "Moonies" with their paper flowers, bothering "civilians" in the airport. "The Rev. Moon loves you".

So. I had this Sansui integrated, an AU-5(something), ceramic/MM switch on the back. It hissed like a snake without needing to be antagonized first. The first series to have the really cool black faceplate. I gave it to my (then) 17 yr. old brother. He still has it. Occasionally he threatens he'll give it back. A Dual 1219, Shure M75 & some Sansuii 8" 2-ways.

A friend, just back from four years in the service, 1975(?), brought home a Pio. system. SA-9100, CS-99a's & (might have been) a PL-12D table with the PC-330 cart. Solid bass, sweet hfs & mids with a spooky presence. It sank my Sansui stuff.

Off to the Hi Fi emporium. Magnepans & Phase Linear 400s were the hot items. Sam Wherry, the owner, would crank them up, LOUD, & then just stand there, a far-away look in his eyes & sales spiel totally forgotten. I wanted to hear some real bass. EPI towers & Marantz sounded VERY nice together. They did bass. I'd read up on neutrality so double large Advents in the utility cabinet & a Kenwood KA-9800 integrated came back. 9800 HAD to be better than 9100, it's a bigger number. Nada.

It was the cart. Sorry to relate this to you, Raul, but it was the beginning of my reluctance to make any claim to being an audiophile, an enthusiast since.

Not a PC-400, it's a 330. Top Choice, $200.00. Would someone buy it? Please?

Peace,
My gosh! What a memory. I own this German 'artillery' ( Emitter II Exclusive + Basis Exclusive) for some time but each time that I need to write the names I need to check.
However : 'Magnenpans without bass'? I owned the Timpany (?) and remember not only 'the best bass ever' but more in particular that each and every visitor's first question was: 'what are those'? While the second question was for my wife: 'how can you live together with those and him'?

Regards,
Dear Timeltel: I just give me the time to test my AT20SS with an after market stylus and I can't find a poor performance. Not as refined and not so " complete " as with the original stylus but not bad at all. I don't know which kind of after market stylus I own or its vintage time but good.

Regards and enjoy the music,
R.
After a long separation, I reunited with the 20ss the other night. It was like seeing an old friend, one who brings along to share a nice aged bourbon.
Regards, Raul: Lucky you! I'm going through nearly the same situation with an EPC-U25. Same family as the Technics P23 or EPC-205 and with a solid 1/2" mount. One stylus from Nagaoaka, another "generic", not impressed. Have ordered a JICO SAS for the U25. With laminated cores, single point cantilever suspension and relatively low inductance, the cart should perform better than it does now. Jico shipping notification last Fri.

A red generic for the AT-20SS? Want it?

Peace,
Greetings all, about two weeks ago I tried to make contact with Axel regarding the repair of one Clearaudio Maestro cartridge. I have received no response. Is there a secret password involved or am I being impatient?
Thanks, Don
Dear Grbluen2: Now he is very busy and some times he received so many emails that he could be losted down there. Try it again and you will receive his answer.

regards and enjoy the music,
R.
Dear Grbluen2: What happened with your Maestro? do you need to fix it or an up-grade through Axel?

Regards and enjoy the music,
R.
Dear Raul, I purchased the Maestro used and I am not certain if I damaged the cartridge, but in any event, the cantilever has become twisted within the cartridge body. It still plays, but requires extreme azimuth settings. I have followed those threads which suggest the cartridge maybe user serviceable, but I'm not sure that I could pull off the repair. Maybe with a little guidance... Don
I was thinking about trying the Soundsmith Grace Fe stylus assembly on my Grace cartridge. Has anyone else heard anything about it good or bad? Any thoughts on the best choice of options?
Dear Don, No cantilever is 'user serviceable'. The so called
'exotic kind' can't bend. I posted my AT 180 to Axel
and got stright cantilever back with new suspension. The
cost is not worth mentioning: 30 Euro. My 'theory' is that
bend cantilevers are caused by wrong or no antiskate. The
suspension at the side involved get 'softer' or 'weaker' on
this side with the cantilever 'pointing' at respective side.
Raul's 'refresh' means probable new suspension.

Regards,
Dear Acman, The 'strange' thing is that nobody mentioned
'ruby' or 'sapphire' upgrade by Axel. He is known as 'the'
repair service for all B&O carts so he should have at least
those sapphire cantilevers. To my knowledge the only
difference between both kinds is the colour. Raul promissed
to inform us about all those 'upgrades' he made
by Axel so I assume that he also try those sapphire cantilevers.
To make a good choice you need at least some
comparison between Axel's and Peter's upgrade.

Regards,
Regards, Grbluen2: If the cantilever is simply rotated and not bent then you may be able to correct it yourself. Pull up the AudioKarma turntable forum, find "Search", enter "rotated cantilever" & click on Google site search. This is not an uncommon occurrence.

If inspection of the "V" magnets proves them to be in the correct 45* position relative to the pole pieces but the stylus is not vertical then replacement/repair should be considered.

A user initiated cantilever swap is another option. It is more easily accomplished than might be thought. Research & deliberation are advisable, incantations optional. Our contributor "Fleib" has given good advice regarding the CA modded AT95 (last year) in this thread, perhaps he'll check in?

Peace,
Hello Nandric, I have several cartridges lined up to go to Axel, but inertia, as Lewm says, seems to keep them at my home.

I DO seem to be able to buy cartridges and stylus and listen to them, so I was interested in opinions on the Soundsmith.