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Which wire for internal recabling my speakers?

Hi, after changing some resistors and caps with better quality once in my speakers Opera Gran Callas (see the relative post here

https://forum.audiogon.com/discussions/caps-for-crossover-upgrade-for-opera-grand-callas-loudspeakers)

I’ve decided to put crossover outside loudspeakers and to hang up it with rubber bands in order to decouple it from the floor.

To do that I have to recable with new internal wiring my loudspeakers, because original once are too short.

First of all I think of Neotech soct 12 and 14 awg (first for woofers and MIDs and the last for tweeters), it’s a pure occ copper solid core in teflon. It’s considered one of the best cables but.... I suspect it to be too analytical and on the dry side, without richness in harmonics.

On the other side once of the best cable, as for its reputation regarding richness, is the duelund DCA GA but... I suspect it could be not so extended on highs and bass, and that it could be on the flabby side, a bit too slow on the attacks, not reactive.

So I’d like to use a cable that has natural timbre, rich in harmonics but at the same time fast and powerful.

 

Anyone have experience with Jupiter wire? Especially with Jupiter 4n solid core cooper in cotton or with Jupiter copper tinned multistrand?

How Jupiter wire stands between above Neotech and Duelund wires?

 

Thanks

 

 

 

grunter
grannyring's avatar
grannyring
6,479 posts
 

Solid core copper sounds best compared to stranded in my experience. The Neotech line of UPOCC is sold at Sonic Craft. Jeff the owner of Sonic Craft is expert on speaker crossovers and internal wiring and also praises the Neotech line of solid core bulk cable. Here is a link.

https://www.soniccraft.com/index.php/neotech-wire-teflon-solid-cu-c-296_175_183_221?osCsid=9e253907f8dd2263322a229177a6ba13

 

You should twist the positive and negative runs from the binding posts and drivers to the crossover board to help reduce noise.  This is especially true if the runs are longer as in tower speakers. 
 

Stranded Neotech wire is a tad easier to work with being less stiff, but it is not as focused and pure sounding. I like using solid core wire internally as it easily bends in place and stays put! This is important. If you have some skills and experience using 12 gauge on the woofer is ideal. If really not that experienced, then 14 gauge is a bit easier to solder and work with.  
 

You can email Jeff at Sonic Craft with your project questions as he is very knowledgeable and will help. 

lrlacosse's avatar
lrlacosse
63 posts
 

DH Labs "Silversonic"

mrearl
40 posts
 

I would expect stranded wire to have some kind of instabilities owing to the vibrations inside a cabinet.  My vote is for solid wire, if you're concerned about this at all.

djones51
4,947 posts
 

 Remove the crossover and hang it from rubber bands? Seriously?

millercarbon's avatar
millercarbon
12,531 posts
 

Thanks, almost missed that.

Grunter, look through the pics, rubber bands are a good cheap isolation solution. They do however not last very long. Over time they stretch and break. You have the right idea, just be a lot better with springs. Nobsound are cheap and highly effective. Townshend Pods are a lot better. Second to last picture shows mine on a bench, same thing is inside my Moabs and works great.  

 

https://systems.audiogon.com/systems/8367

If you elect to go Nobsound I suggest hot glue individual springs under your crossover board. Experiment first on a bench to find how many and where, then hot glue in place. Will only need at most 4 per board. This will leave you with the Nobsound footers and enough springs to do another component or two.

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