Salc First I'd make sure to have high quality power receptacles, something like the Furutech GTX-D (G gold or R rhodium), Oyaide R1, or even the cost effective Acme Audio Labs silver plated 20 AMP cryo and CFC coated at $60 Then as others have suggested; power conditioner, streamer, DAC, preamp, and amp. The signal components don't need as heavy a cable, so usually a little less expensive; the preamp and amp I prefer a heavy gauge, something like 11AWG or less. |
My experience is that the most noticeable changes to a device when a alternate Power Cable is added, is on SS Devices. In my case this is a CDT. When adding the same Power Cable to the DAC, change to the end sound is detectable but not to the measure of the CDT. In my case the Power Cable selected also has produced a change to the end sound that is perceived as a betterment on both devices. |
I realize this is an old topic. It's good getting current experience. Appreciate everyone's input . My Pass labs 350.8 amp comes with a pretty beefy power cord with its own direct power line. I have a separate Lumin U2 streamer and La scala DAC. Sounds like experimentation is in order between these. Thanks again |
@salc trying is the only way to find out. Everything matters. Plug the amp directly into the wall outlet without power conditioner First power cord upgrade is for the amp - 10awg minimum, best possible cord you can afford Second is for the preamp. Then on power conditioner feeding source components, then up the chain - preamp, DAC, streamer/transport Also, I owned 3 Pass Labs amps - X250.5, XA30.8 and X260.8 monos. The generic 14awg stock power cord included with the amp is enough to get you up and running. But…every time a good power cord made a difference on these amps in my system. Even the affordable Audience Forte F3 beats the stock cord. |
