Save your money - none - get good electrical wire from the main box if anything. |
Well, if the power from the main box is not perfect and it probably is not, the above suggestion won't help at all. Check out the the Vansevers power conditioners at www.vansevers.com One of the best at their price points in my humble opinion. If you call or eMail the company with questions, Mike Vansevers himself will respond. |
PS: Vansevers has single or mulitple conditioners. Tuned and filtered for digital and analog sources. Mike Vansevers was once a Pro Audio guy skeptic who once though power conditioners and interconnets were a joke until he actually sat down one day and listened. Now he manufactures the stuff. I believe he has an electrical engineering background. |
i disagree with the last guys post.The best thing you can do is run dedicated lines for your audio gear and good wire will make this upgrade even better.I can tell you one thing that is a certin with line conditioners there more likly to do more harm than good.People like Toshiba,Dranetz make great line conditioners at 5k to 10k.They are amazing line conditionres.The junk made by the guy you mention and tice and panamax and others is not very good.PS audio make one that works its 1k.But the first thing to do is put in dedicated lines. |
If you plug your Llano Design amp into almost any power conditioner, you'll be "choking" your amp. You can go to Llanodesign.com and pull up the Wattmate. They made this power conditioner to handle the Llano amps. Scott |
I also recommend the power conditioners from VansEvers. Mike VE makes a great product designed specifically for current hungry amplifiers: The Unlimiter. I just added one to power a BAT VK-500 amplifier and am highly impressed with it. I was already running the amplifier directly from a dedicated line so comparisons with/without the VansEvers were easy. System dynamics were not altered one bit. Also comforting to know that I now have some form of protection for my gear! Check it out at vansevers.com Good Luck, Ken |
Power conditioners are generally a crap-shoot. Every brand screams for attention, few actually deliver on their promise. I have a >70K system with a dedicated a/c feed. The only unequivocal (nay, colossal!) difference in 'purifying the juice' (besides dedicated a/c circuits), has been adding premium quality PC's. Shunyata (Powersnakes) is due to release a line conditioner next month, purported to "put an end to all power conditioners". This remains to be seen (heard?). Judging by their PC's, I would tend to think it will be a wothwhile improvement over existing conditioners/regenerators. Expected to be similar in price to the PS Audio 600. Bottom line: Maybe you should wait before you plunk down your next wad of green. |
Thanks for this thread, has anyone experience Jack Bybee's AC products? http//bybeetech.com describes some superconductivity/quantum physics/secret sonar technologies in combo. But have not tried. |
Check out the Exact Power 2000 at www.exactpower.com. It is a 2000 watt unit that I have heard and it is very good. It should handle all of your equipment. I believe that they offer a 30 day audition and this is the ONLY way that you can evaluate any of this stuff. In your house on your system!! |
Dedicated lines are the only way to go as mentioned above.I think alot of the VansEver products and the Unlimiter would be great for your amps on its own dedicated line and a PS Audio PP-300 Power Plant would be ideal for the rest of your gear on its own dedicated line.Your amps will sound best with their own dedicated line as will the rest of your system with its own line. Happy listening. |
I have to agree that if you can get a dedicated line, go for it. I do not think you should then skip the power conditioner. If your neighbor who gets his power before you do has power tools for a hobby, the dedicated line will give the electrical pollution he creates a more direct line to your system. Stay away from the mass market conditions like Adcom, Panamax & Monster. I guess I keep singing Mike Vansevers praises, but he agrees with all the negative comments by some here and has tried to design products that don't limit power, etc, etc. |
Thank you all for all the suggestions. It is really interesting hearing all the differences of opinion. Now, for the hard part. Which one to try. I am going to start with a dedicated power line for the amps. The next question is, does the rest of the equipment need to run through a Line Conditioner are run direct on a seperate line? However, I think I will still check out VansEvers and Wattmate just for the %$#@ of it. Has anyone tried one of the Wattmate units? |
The whole key point of a dedicated line that isn't mentioned is INDEPENDENT grounding as well. You will still pick up a lot of interference if you don't do this. The PS Audio product is a little different than a line conditioner filter. I agree with the guys that say go with a dedicated circuit WITH separate grounding and good power cords. The best bang for the buck. |
Apart from the specified power lines and PC's, I would audition as many conditioners as possible (preferably the ones that are mentioned above). This is because different ones interract inconsistently with the various conditioners and the amount of pollution in your a/c. Trying to predict the outcome a priori is a total crapshoot. Which is why there are so many opinions and why so many of us have been gouged. |
Hi Bmccormick; I have a Tice Elite 4 (almost identical to E-3), and when I plugged my McCormack DNA-2DX (600 wpc/4Ohms) into it, music became much too bright. I called Steve McCormack about this, and he said the DNA-2 should be plugged directly into a wall outlet as it needs to source a LOT of current-- and that did the trick, the brightness went away completely. Since then, I have installed a dedicated AC system and dedicated ground, and my whole system again got too bright. It seems that with dedicated AC, stock power cords become the limiting factor; BTW Redkiwi verified this and helped me figure it out. Over a period of two months I added Synergistic Research Master Couplers to amp, pre-amp, DAC, and transport. This not only corrected the brightness problem but improved music quality/character in all respects-- especially noticeable was a decrease in background noise. Further, I now have all four major components plugged directly into the dedicated wall outlets. I agree with the above posts that recommend a dedicated AC and ground system, but be advised that if you add dedicated AC you will also need good quality power cords if you don't already have them. As for the Tice E-4, I now only have 3 accessories plugged into it and as you know it has 16 outlets!!! I think I'm going to move it to a TV/2nd stereo system. One thing I do regret, is that with major stereo components plugged directly into the wall, they have no spike/surge protection. I am considering the PS 300 for transport, DAC, and pre-amp. Best Luck & Cheers. Craig |
Take a look at the PS Audio Power Plant units. |
Monster HTS-5000 for $600, same design as the MIT's infact its the same designed who made both. He even admitted that its the same thing, except MIT charges a lot more. |
HTS-5000 is as good as the Grey and Mit I tried. also don't use power amps with line conditions generally. They always limit current, even the ones that say its designed for amps and say high current. Just do an AB test. The non conditioned amp with more current will always sound better, unless you have A LOT of crap in your lines. |
