No one should ever have to go and open their gear to get to and clean the contacts of a fuse holder. What rubbish.
All the best,
Nonoise |
Try not to get into a war of words with Georgie. He's only here to add to the number of threads he can get closed down once they've become contentious. He's even boasted about it. He gets his kicks doing this sort of thing.
If you've noticed, he'll start out advising, and then when things don't go his way, he'll instantly turn on the people he pretended to help, insulting and denigrating them. It's his MO.
All the best,
Nonoise |
You're just another victim of expectation bias. Something taken for granted all these years turns out to be wrong and misunderstood, only to have the die hard cultists cling to their electricians bibles and chant that it cannot be so and refuse to even try it for themselves.
That's where progress stops and dies.
All the best,
Nonoise |
You must be new to all of this. For the umpteenth time, there are some manufacturers who install "boutique" fuses in their gear. Go and peruse the archives on this.
This is getting boring, having to go over the same topic, again and again.
To take the low road with the cheap shot that people are delusional and gullible shows there's no more argument left for you.
If you haven't tried it, then you simply don't know.
All the best,
Nonoise |
maybe it means that when the fuse blows, another fuse across the universe blows at the exact same moment in time That reminds me of the Steve Wright comedy bit where he found an on/off switch in his house that didn't seem to be connected to anything. He tried flipping it on and off many times, checking throughout his home to see what it was connected to. After a few more times turning it off and on, he got a call from someone in Iowa saying, "Stop doing that." All the best, Nonoise |
The problem is many fuseholders are not exact, but fuses themselves even less so. I've seen many where the end contacts were not concentric with the glass bit, on crooked and the like. Combine that with a holder that is not made perfectly and its really easy to see how shifting the fuse around a bit to get a better fit can affect things. How I do it is to simply measure the voltage drop across the fuseholder, then rotate the fuse until I see the lowest drop. Easy enough for someone that isn't going to zap themselves (which you can do easily enough, so don't mess with the fuse if the circuit is live). I understand and agree with your findings. But, fuses like Padis and HiFi Tuning seem to be made to a higher standard. Padis has no info etched on the sides of the end caps to ensure uniform contact and are as even a possible, which I've confirmed by rolling them on a flat surface and they don't waver. The same goes for Hi Fi Tuning except for the markings on the end caps. The fact that Mundorf worked with Hi Fi Tuning on their Supreme fuses (which I haven't tried as I love what the Silver Stars do) using their formula of 99% Silver and 1% Gold in the plating and the melt wire itself tells me there's more quality control going on with their fuses aside from others that seem to burn them in like a cable cooker would do to a cable and calling it Quantum Tunneling or something equally vexing. All the best, Nonoise |
Is that the best you can do, Georgie?
There is gear out there with decades of use that've never had their fuses replaced because they were properly designed. Pull those fuses out and they don't look anything like the ones you use in your silly slide shows.
I don't know (or care to know) what gear you use that has such an UNREGULATED inrush of current that it damages fuses in such short order, but, there you go.
All the best,
Nonoise |
You’ve been told, it’s not the fuse, but the way it’s seated in the fuse holder that gives a very small voltage drop across the fuse (unlikely detectable)
You’ve been told, many times, that the way a fuse holder is shaped doesn’t change over time unless you use a hammer to remove and insert a fuse. A single speck or mote of whatever will have little to no impact compared to using one of your standard fuses, which are made of the worse, almost non conductive witches brew of metals they can get their hands on (iron, zinc, tin, lead, etc) because they melt easier and not because they conduct. I know of no one who’d use these metals in their PCs, IC, and SCs. All the best, Nonoise |
You "fusers" did I say anything about the sound??, I think NOT!!
Like Ralph said it can be measured in an amp as a "very small" voltage drop across the fuse if it has a misaligned/dirty fuse holder, but your mains will be varying much worse than that.
And in the case of line level equipment, it’s just a non event even as it’s REGULATED The OP asked if something was done to the fuse because it does sound different. So, what relevance does your statement have to this discussion, other than to get up on your old and tired soapbox just to shake your fists and scream at the clouds? All the best, Nonoise |
So, bad contact with a standard fuse can account for a difference in the sound of the amp where a different fuse can't account for a difference in sound because it's just a fuse and it's not in a place where it can affect the sound.
Yeah. Right. Makes total sense.
All the best,
Nonoise |
