What oil for VPI HW19 turntable?

Astock, thanks for the correction, it's been decades....

Totally OT - that is/remains a great flick :-)

-Sam

Mobil 1 is a good choice, as this brand is a true synthetic oil (a liquid paraffin as opposed to 'reconstituted dino juice' that masquerades as synthetic). Either will vastly outperform the level of performance required to lubricate a turntable bearing.

Regarding the Annie Hall reference, Woody (Alvy Singer) pulled Marshall McLuhan into the scene at a theater ticket line to verbally castrate a pompous university professor. Here it is, a great moment in cinema! Enjoy.

Alvy Singer: (a man behind him in line is talking loudly) What I wouldn't give for a large sock with horse manure in it!
Alvy Singer: (to audience) Whaddya do when you get stuck in a movie line with a guy like this behind you?
Man in Theatre Line: Wait a minute, why can't I give my opinion? It's a free country!
Alvy Singer: He can give it... do you have to give it so loud? I mean, aren't you ashamed to pontificate like that? And the funny part of it is, Marshall McLuhan, you don't know anything about Marshall McLuhan!
Man in Theatre Line: Oh, really? Well, it just so happens I teach a class at Columbia called "TV, Media and Culture." So I think my insights into Mr. McLuhan, well, have a great deal of validity!
Alvy Singer: Oh, do ya? Well, that's funny, because I happen to have Mr. McLuhan right here, so, so, yeah, just let me...
(pulls McLuhan out from behind a nearby poster)
Alvy Singer: come over here for a second... tell him!
Marshall McLuhan: I heard what you were saying! You know nothing of my work! You mean my whole fallacy is wrong. How you got to teach a course in anything is totally amazing!
Alvy Singer (to audience): Boy, if life were only like this!

I don't leave cotton from a Q-Tip laying inside the Bearing Well! And if one, or two microscopic strands of cotton did get left behind, please tell me what harm it will cause? I'll answer that question for you, absolutely none at all!

Whatever one wishes to use, I'll say again, don't leave old cruddy oil in the Bearing Well, clean it all out every time. And again, leave the Thrust Plate alone! There's no logical need to keep toying with the screw in Thrust Plate.

Yikes! Q-tips? Where does all that cotton go? Handi-Wipes are the gods gift to woodworkers, machinists; anyone who needs an absolutely lint-free cloth.

As for the rest, pulling the spindle 3 times a year is too often for me, YMMV.

I can't post the manual here (can I?) but like in Annie Hall, I could say as Woody did, "I've got Kurt Vonnegut right here, and..." :-}

VPI no doubt still sells the conventional bearing oil lube that was used for the HW-19. Mike at VPI, being the good guy he is also recommended that Mobil 1 would be a good substitute as well. I don't think one would have any problem with the multi-viscosity blends, such as 5/30-10/30-10/40.

I think the important thing is, with these bearings, is getting in the regular habit of periodically doing a clean, and lube. I don't suggest removing the bearing well's bottom thrust plate for routine lubrication, because you will be altering VTA, and as well, could cause possible leakage at the thrust plate.

Long Q-Tips work well for wiping out the bearing well, get it as clean as possible, before aplying new lubricant. Inspect the .250" Ball on the Bearing Shaft for wear, and replace either with a new metal ball from VPI, or replace with a ceramic ball from somebody like Boca Bearing.

What happens after awhile with these conventional style bearings, is that due to gravity, lubrication leaves the upper area of the bearing, thus causing eventual wear of the bearing sleeve bushing. Running the bearing totally dry will also cause eventual wear-galling of both the bearing ball, and thrust plate.

This periodic lubrication, let's say every 5-6 months will lessen-alleviate any possibilityu of wear, as well as enhance performance, and lessen any bearing shaft rock within the well.

Also clean the Bearing shaft, remove the ball if you can clean everything, and use a very small dab of grease withing the bearing ball hole to retain it upon re-installation into the bearing well.

Use a very very light coat on the shaft, and maybe add 2 drops down into the well. Over-application will be easy to determine, as you'll have quite a bit of oozing of oil occuring at the Bearing Weall Flange. Never force the Bearing Shaft back in, let it settle gradually over a period of minutes. It will eventually seat, then you can re-install the Platter, and Belt. Hope this helps. Mark

I think VPI recommends adding oil (not changing it) once a year. I have been doing that and have not had any problems. I use VPI oil/grease. I have a Superscoutmaster, so I use the oil for the motors and put some grease at the platter bearing. I suggest getting the supplies direct from VPI since it comes with assurance that it is the right stuff.

Thank you.

Actually, if what's in there is original, or someone else' idea, you should change it.

Remove the platter from the bearing well being caerful not to lose the ball. Unscrew the cap at the bottom of the well. Use mineral spirits on a lint free cloth like Handi-Wipes to clean out what is probably dark thick gunk.

Drip 5 drops of Mobil One 10W-40 on the spindle shaft and 3 more drops in the well. Rotate a few times, watch for spillage. Done.

That's what VPI recommends in the MK IV Manual.

Why do you figure a need for an oil change?

One changes oil in a car because of the very high temperatures that break down the oil. Dirt from road use and combustion byproducts can contaminate the oil, and slow leaks and the combustion process can cause the oil level to drop below the needed amount.

None of these things are really true in a turntable situation. The primary issue there is the oil is so old that its viscosity has changed due to evaporation of the volatile components.

If you can disassemble the component, you might wipe it off with a clean cloth prior to re-oiling.

In that case, it is not really an issue of "changing" the oil as adding some more. A light machine oil is likely the proper one to use, but only the manufacturer can tell you for sure what is recommended.