It is a tight fit but the weight of the platter should be enough to slide over the bearing. You can try a drop or 2 of the oil they gave you on the bearing shaft. You shouldn't need to tap it in, and I'm assuming the bearing is mounted on the plinth already. |
I had to tap it in using a wood block. I was very careful. |
...the bearing was mounted on the plinth but the platter wouldn't slide on at all. No way would I have wanted to apply the force required while it was on the plinth.
I lifted the assembly off the plinth and installed it in the platter, then simply placed the entire platter w/bearing on the plinth. It's all good now. |
ahh white lithium grease is what you are supposed to use and IME you shouldn't have to use any force. if it wasn't greased you may damage the bearing. |
Do NOT tap it in...let it slide down by itself. Mine takes some time, but it will slide. |
Cpk and Stringreen are right. Use a little dab of white lithium grease on top of the bearing. Then let the platter slide down by itself under its own weight. You are experiencing hydraulic pressure due to the tightness of the bearing and chase assembly. The air in the chamber is very slow to escape. If it is that tight it should slide down easily without banging the bearing. You do not want to let it go down hard on the bearing.
Enjoy |
I'm pretty sure there's lithium already packed in the platter. VPI always puts a shot in the hole and tapes over the covering before shipping. |
VPI has a SuperGrease which should be used. It comes in what looks like a white hypodermic needle..if you didnt get it in your setup, ask VPI for some. |
OK, now I *know* I'm good (I wasn't previously). I tapped the asssembly out of the platter, put a dab of white lithium grease around the perimeter of the bearing assembly. It slid in with nothing more than my palm and *finally* seated it in the platter as it should be.
I've got the platter on, motor and belt hooked up. I mounted a temporary cartridge and set the alignment and tracking force.
Now I'm in the process of setting the arm height but it seems the damn ht. adjustment set screws are very tight. The supplied wrench twists as I try to loosen them so I stop. The arm is currently so high the cueing mech. doesn't engage. The set screws I'm after are right above the adjustable height adjustment knurled ring.
I'm assuming I need the arm pretty much horizontal when it's on the LP, correct? Once that's set, I've got to verify/set the azimuth and I'll be up and running.
thanks fo reveryones help. please don't stop now, I'm *almost* there... :-) |
no they set screws you want are below the knurled ring at the arm base, one the right side and one in the rear |
Do you have the 9 inch VPI arm that normally comes with the turntable? If so, there are 2 allen screws at the base of the arm...one in front and one in back. You will also notice a Knurled thumb screw that encircles the entire tonearm pillar. When you release the 2 allen screws, the arm will fall onto that knurled thumb screw - so make sure that the thumb screw is screwed to rest against the bottom of the tonearm shaft. Once those allen screws are loose, you raise or lower the whole arm by turning that knurled thumb screw. When you have the arm horizontal, then you can adjust the cueing. (Don't tighten those allen screws yet. The arm is now resting on that big knurled thumb screw. The cueing piston assembly is held in place by an allen screw to the right of the piston. Loosten the screw and the piston might just drop so hold it with your left thumb and forefinger. When confident, raise or lower the whole piston which will take the cueing assemply with it...when you have found the optimum position, tighten the fixing allen screw. The table is now in a condition to play a record if you installed the cartridge correctly. That knurled thumb screw will now serve to adjust the vta...turning the screw will raise or lower the back end of the arm. You can do this while playing a record if you do it carefully. When the correct VTA is dialed in, tighten the 2 allen screws - one on the right of the base, one in the back. If you need further clarification - ask. |
Quick question Stringreen.. and sorry to deviate the thread slightly. When you got the 10.5i, did you get the jig too? Or was that additional. And if you used the jig, are you happy with the accuracy? Planning to upgrade as you did but my Wallytractor for the 9" of course won't work. |
When you exchange the 9 Sig for the 10.5i, you get a complete arm, jig, tools, etc. Its a complete package except for the side thrust gizmo (which I don't use anyway). I suggest you keep this gizmo from the 9 Sig (part of the upgrade is that you must send back the 9 Sig.) It will work on the 10.5i, but you have to ask for the longer plastic or nylon "string". VPI will send it for free. The 10.5i, being a longer arm has very little requirement for a compensation device anyway. The installation of the new arm is a bit scary, but in retrospect, easily done and very satisfying. |
OOPS - I forgot to tell you something else regarding the 9 Sig change to the 10.5i. The dust cover does not fit any more. If you have a Gingko dust cover it has to be cut out in the back to fit the junction box that now sticks out over the back, and also, the cover has to be cut on the right side to accomodate the arm and cueing lever. The little weights that stick out from the side of the arm, now stick out over the end of the right side of the table, and so does the cueing lever when in the "up" position. I had Gingko cut the back but didn't realize the right side had to be cut too, and tried just removing the arm (easy to do), but its a pain to do that every time. |
