2. misc-audio
  3. 129573-75180

Time for dedicated outlets!

I would like some advice on what exactly to tell my electrician to be sure I get what I need. Is just saying that I want two separate dedicated lines to the listening room sufficient or are there other key fraises that should be included in my description of the work I would like done?
mizike

Showing 5 responses by cleeds

cleeds
6,070 posts
 
perazzi28
... the power company does not supply a ground wire.
You only have three supply wires coming in from your utility/power company.
2 are the supply wires...Positives...one for each half of a 200 amp service or whatever your home has. The third wire is the Neutral wire.
No ground comes to your home. Your ground is made-up via a 6' copper grounding rod driven in the ground.

No, you're mistaken: You're confusing ground with safety ground. They are two different, though related things. All grounds and the neutral must be tied to together at the service panel. Whether you are subject to NEC or not, failing to comply with this practice is dangerous.

The ground rod - codes usually requires two of them today - is predominately for lightning protection, and is not a reliable (low impedance) path to ground.

There is no magic associated with grounding rods, although many audiophiles imbue their ground systems with exceptional importance. The whitepaper linked by jea48 is an excellent treatise on how grounds work (and don't work):
https://centralindianaaes.files.wordpress.com/2012/09/indy-aes-2012-seminar-w-notes-v1-0.pdf

Consider that electrical systems in airplanes, cars and on boats work quite well without what you mistakenly define as a ground system.
cleeds
6,070 posts
 
bumperdoo
I grounded the sub-panel separate from the main panel using a grounding plate buried outside connected with 6-gauge grounding wire
That's a violation of the NEC and potentially hazardous. All grounds must be bonded together at the service panel, without exception.

The highest quality ground is a low impedance ground, and that's the ground provided by your utility. If there's an issue with your utility's ground, it's their responsibility to correct it.
cleeds
6,070 posts
 
cerberus79
#12 wire is rated for 20 amps and #10 is rated for 30 amps. If you use a 20 amp breaker it will trip at 85% of rating so what is the point of going to #10.
Derating the wire will reduce voltage drop. The calculation of the proper gauge wire for a given amperage hinges on the distance of the wire, so you can't quite say, " #12 wire is rated for 20 amps," although it is generally true.
cleeds
6,070 posts
 
creekmaster
10-2 use silver paste to coat the wire ends before attaching to breaker ,better yet
would be to install breaker panel sub box near where it enters wall and use a grounding rod driven in to the ground 12' 5/8" dia.,then you eliminate ground interference from main supply and of course use a audiophile outlet preferably quadplex and also use silver paste with the connection
Oh no, that's a violation of the NEC. All grounds must be bonded together at the service panel; anything less than that is potentially dangerous.

As for the silver paste, I'm not sure that meets code, either. Whether it does or not, I don't think it's a good idea. You want clean, tight electrical connections.
cleeds
6,070 posts
 
lowrider57
Something that I’ve wondered about, electricians use staples when running cables. Any audible effect ? (as long as they don’t pierce the jacket).
I think clips are preferable to staples. That's what my electrician uses.
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