Thoughts on new amp


I currently have a Bryston 4B (200wpc) amp to CJ pv10 Pre (tubed) to Alon Model 1 speakers (88dB). The amp seems to be overpowering the rest, I can't turn the pre past 9:00 and keep it under wall shaking decibels. I would like more volume control at lower listening levels. That said, I am thinking about moving to a tube amp(s) since I like the sound/tone of them. What size amp should I be looking for? I almost had a deal for a Dynaco ST70 and am still considering moving in that direction. I have a budget of around $1k and would like to go used to maximize that. What are the benefits to going with 2 amps as opposed to 1 more powerful? So there it is, I am happy with the warmth of tube gear, ready to trade out the big old Bryston-workhorse that she is for a more refined tube amp. All ideas and help are very much appreciated- you guys have got me this far and I am enjoying my music more than at any point in my life.
Very Grateful
Zen
zenblaster
Too much gain for your loudspeaker/room is a common problem in component matching. I, and probably many others, have lived with a linestage volume range between 6 and 9:00 knowing it's not the optimal range for our linestages. In my current system I use a balanced linestage custom-built with internally switchable zero and +6dB gain, and still had to pull a voltage gain tube from my Atma Ma-1 amps to allow the linestage to run in its sweet spot. With so many high gain linestages and amps out there, excessive gain can require unconventional solutions. For me, reality is that my Atma MA-1 amps play with less distortion at say, 30 watt output than their smaller siblings, the M-60s do. So it's not as simple as substituting the less powerful amps and pocketing the cost difference. You may want to try a cheap used zero gain TVC or EVS/Endler resistor volume control in place of your preamp to determine how significant the voltage gain of your amp alone is in your system. You could keep the passive as a spare or sell for little penalty later.
CJ 11/11a,PrimaLuna PL 5/7s,VAC kt-88.A 50-80W/ch tube amp should be enough.Auto-bias is usually a plus.
I totally agree with Stevecham. If you don't think so, then look into a CJ tube power amp.
It is not necessarily just your amp but also likely your preamp. Do you know how much gain it has? Most preamps have way too much gain AFAIK. That's why I had mine built with only 10dB of gain, and actually could have gone as low as 6dB but at the time was askeered to go so low. Because of my low preamp gain I am able to get to satisfying output levels around the center travel of it's volume knob - the sweet (most linear) spot. You can likely get a preamp built with cutomized gain easier than an amp. Or perhaps insert attenuators?
The room is +- 16'x13' w/components on the 13. Vaulted to 14ft. with 2 windows,carpeting so quite absortive.

I'm going to jetison the Bryston and look for a tube amp, looking for recs in this direction
You know, there is an excellent synergy between CJ pres and power amps and if I were you I would grab a 2250 or 2500 CJ amp for your 10.
The problem you are having is due to the high voltage gain. The voltage gain of your Bryston 4B is reported to be 30dB. That's not abnormally high, but still on the high side of the spectrum. If you want less overall loudness and more control in lower volume level, look for amp with lower gain, not low power rating. There are amps rated for 100wpc and 30dB of gain, which will sound equally loud at the same volume level as your current amp.
To make a proper recommendation, I need to know room size, how acoustally dead (absortive) or live (reflective) your listening room is, how loudly & what you usually listen to (chamber music requires less amp power than rock or orchestral music).

That said, I think the problem is likely an imbalance between your preamp's output voltage & amp's input sensitivity based your observation that you "can't turn the pre past 9:00 and keep it under wall shaking decibels."

I would say contacting Bryston and/or Conrad-Johnson about your concern is your best bet.

You may just need an attenuator or passive level control.