Surge protection for amps?

I use the PS Audio P600 which provides protection and regenerates the power to my components. I have a friend who has the PS Audio P10 which is a later reincarnation and has many more bells and whistles if you want a more sophisticated power regenerator. If you have not tried a power regenerator I highly recommend you compare it to your power conditioner. Yes, the power regenerators are more costly but the sound impact is worthwhile.

1. The lightning protection system should be kept separate and insulated from your roof structure.
2. The lightning protection system is joined together on the roof, air terminals should be as close to the end of ridge with 1 foot maximum from the end. With the air terminal too far from the roof end the lightning strike will likely strike your roof end tiles and not the air terminal. Depending on roof length more air terminals may be required at equal spacings along the roof ridge.
The down conductor, usually bare copper 35mm2 should be installed at opposite diagonal ends of the house keeping the run as straight as possible with no sharp bends and terminated to their own grounding rods. Installing the down conductor in a conduit is ok.
3. Your lightning system should be bonded to your main earth terminal, if not you will have a potential difference between the two earths and during a lightning strike potentially high voltages will appear at your consumer side of your electrical installation. It is paramount that total house surge protection devices are installed upstream of any circuits.
A test point should be installed on the down conductor to measure and ensure integrity of your lightning protection system. From this point is where you can take a bonding conductor to your main earth terminal. For further information have a look on the website https://www.streamer-electric.com/ which is a company that specializes in earthing systems.

From a Florida lightening situation, there are at least 3 events to consider: 

1.   A direct strike of your home... as noted above....for this you better have a lightening rod system installed by a certified electrician with at least 4 copper rods driven 20’ into the ground... cost about $2k... and you should also have a panel box surge protector and wall surge protector in case there is any leakage... another $500 installed. 

2.  A lightening strike nearby that travels through the ground and into your panel box wiring. Best option... a panel box surge protector and a wall surge protector 

3.  Lightening hits a nearby electrical wire and travels into your panel box... same as #2.

also, when you are not listening, the wall surge protector should be turned off or powered off.....

and have  a good homeowners policy