To everyone’s credit in this thread, I saw info & equipment resources either I would use or recommend to empower others.
To all I MUST emphasize caution using EQ boosting more than 2-3dB to “correct” system frequency response. If you take on the mindset of a wood or stone carver, using an EQ* to remove to shape the response, you’re far less LIKELY** to blow your speakers or sub. Too much EQ often introduces other artifacts. YMMV
*I much prefer PEQs over graphic.
** boosting much below a sealed sub’s F3, can cause trouble FAST. I would NOT the same a ported sub the bottom octave or so unless I had the $ to replace - but that’s me
OP: Consider listening to just the sub at length using different cutoff frequencies. Also moving your sub and/mains an inch or two in one direction or another can make a big diff in room response.
Also the “mains” F3 vs the sub F3: the main’s driver handling 100hz up to the mid range, typically though several factors govern same etc, that driver’s octave, octave and a half MAY not be it’s strong suit in bass quality. YMMV on this.
I agree that using a sub to relieve the mains below 100 hz benefits the mids by reducing Doppler effects.
To be fair, my 5.5 Home Theatre, before I deployed a dedicated sub* for each corner* channel*, I listened to music full range, NO sub(s) because of what the OP and others w/integration struggle.
*each corner channel sub**, thanks to extensive DSP driven XO use, receives the sub signal just for that channel. The System LFE/sub*** handles the Center frequencies below 80hz.
** a 12 1/2” WAF cube that’s accurate, but not loud, to 27hz
*** a bigger brother, like** but accurate to 20hz
Thanks for reading this far, tony
To all I MUST emphasize caution using EQ boosting more than 2-3dB to “correct” system frequency response. If you take on the mindset of a wood or stone carver, using an EQ* to remove to shape the response, you’re far less LIKELY** to blow your speakers or sub. Too much EQ often introduces other artifacts. YMMV
*I much prefer PEQs over graphic.
** boosting much below a sealed sub’s F3, can cause trouble FAST. I would NOT the same a ported sub the bottom octave or so unless I had the $ to replace - but that’s me
OP: Consider listening to just the sub at length using different cutoff frequencies. Also moving your sub and/mains an inch or two in one direction or another can make a big diff in room response.
Also the “mains” F3 vs the sub F3: the main’s driver handling 100hz up to the mid range, typically though several factors govern same etc, that driver’s octave, octave and a half MAY not be it’s strong suit in bass quality. YMMV on this.
I agree that using a sub to relieve the mains below 100 hz benefits the mids by reducing Doppler effects.
To be fair, my 5.5 Home Theatre, before I deployed a dedicated sub* for each corner* channel*, I listened to music full range, NO sub(s) because of what the OP and others w/integration struggle.
*each corner channel sub**, thanks to extensive DSP driven XO use, receives the sub signal just for that channel. The System LFE/sub*** handles the Center frequencies below 80hz.
** a 12 1/2” WAF cube that’s accurate, but not loud, to 27hz
*** a bigger brother, like** but accurate to 20hz
Thanks for reading this far, tony