subwoofer advice


I would like to incorporate two or more subwoofers into my stereo setup using one or two powered subs (to be purchased) and a pair of Satterberg passive subwoofers that I already own.  My thought was to use a splitter to connect both my speakers and a powered sub to the speaker out of the amplifier (mc2505). 

Is it then possible to connect the passive subs to the powered subs in such a way that they are being powered by the active sub amplifier, rather than the main stereo amplifier?

If so, is it a good idea, and what features do I need to look for in purchasing the powered sub(s).

Any help/suggestions would be most appreciated. 


snapsnap
you need something like this to connect the amp to the sub via the speaker terminals.  Some subs have these build in. some do not. 
https://www.crutchfield.com/S-LrFPSJ7FonT/p_543ADP12/Russound-ADP-1-2-Speaker-level-to-Line-level-Ad...

I don't think you can drive a passive sub through the amp from the active sub but not sure.  I'd just get two SVS or Rythmik sub and be done with it.
Good luck , fun project!
It was the discussion here about the swarm & distributed bass that got me thinking about it.  I already have the two Satterbergs so I'd like to use them if possible along with 2 new subs.

Bjesien - Thanks for the link to the adapter - I anticipate the new subs will have speaker level input capability but if not it could be useful. 
Snapsnap, I think you are going about it the wrong way. What you should do is get another pair of passive subs, a subwoofer crossover like the one JL Audio makes and two commercial stereo amps like QSC PLX 3602's. These amps drive subs way better than any plate amp and they are very reasonably priced. 
You could also get a digital preamp that provides subwoofer crossovers like the DEQX Premate. This is better than any analog crossover and it gives you room control.
 Forget trying to match powered subs with passive subs. It will not work well. You either go all passive or all powered. I personally prefer passive. It gives you a lot more flexibility and the opportunity to make your own subs by either Kits or your own design at way lower prices. 
If you have any questions about doing this feel free to message me.

Mike
Snapsnap, if I understand correctly, you want to power your passive subs with the amplifiers which are already in your active subs, is that right?  

If so, that's extremely unlikely to be feasible.  The amps in your active subs are matched to the impedance of their woofer, and adding a second woofer in parallel will probably cause your amp to shut down.  And adding that second woofer in series will probably cut your amplifier's power in half.   

I suggest powering your two passive subs with an amplifier dedicated just to them.     

Duke
Thank you all for the advice - seems like I'll have to go either passive or active rather than a combination. 
I will have to do some research on what amp would be suitable for subwoofer duty, and how many are required to drive multiple passive subs. On that point, will the additional amp(s) be connected to the main amp or to the preamp? 
snapsnap, I use two QSC PLX 3602 amps to drive 4 subwoofers. They put out 1800 watts/ch into two ohms. Each channel has a gain control and there are balanced inputs. They are AB amps with switching power supplies. They are $1500 each. They make smaller versions of the same amp for less money.  The only possible problem is that they do have internal cooling fans. Mine are on a shelf under the floor in the basement so I do not hear them at all but they might bother some people. Theoretically, driving 4 or 8 ohm subwoofers you probably do not need the fans. You could disconnect them keeping an eye on the temp. If the amps continue to run cool than the fans are not necessary. You can always hook them back up.
Dayton also makes a line of Class D plate amps. One even has DSP.
I do not like installing electronics in Subs and I prefer AB amps with very low output impedance (high damping) 
Snapsnap wrote:  "I will have to do some research on what amp would be suitable for subwoofer duty, and how many are required to drive multiple passive subs."   

I use the Dayton Audio SA-1000 for the Swarm.   Assuming your passive subs are 4 ohms each, the SA-1000 would put out almost 500 watts into the 8 ohm load of your two subs in series.  If your subs are 8 ohms each, you can connect them in parallel for a 4 ohm load, into which the SA-1000 puts out a little less than a kilowatt.  

Snapsnap:  "On that point, will the additional amp(s) be connected to the main amp or to the preamp?"   

It depends on what kind of inputs the subwoofer amp has.  You can find subwoofer amps with either and with both.   

Duke
mijostyn, I use two QSC PLX 3602 amps to drive 4 subwoofers.
I have a PLX 2402 that I purchased new. I've used it solely to power two Bag End Bass cabinets for instrument amplification.
From day one what I thought to be noise from a power supply is actually a noticeable fan noise upon powering up.

Bag End informed me there are surface mounted thermal sensors for each channel. Since PLX has reached legacy status they no longer supply or support the product.
I'm thinking a low noise fan replacement with a similar air flow.

Your experience or any thoughts?