Speaker jumpers

Mirror, mirror on the wall...

@fsilahua - it's funny, I wondered about all those parts in my modest system, spent some time and a small amount of money to DIY upgrade them, and was rewarded with a significant improvement in sound.

It is pure folly to stress about whether or not your system and its parts are good enough. That way ends in a neurotic vortex of anxiety.

But a healthy curiosity and a desire to experiment can be incredibly fun and improve your system to boot. That said, just because some of us like messing about doesn't mean that you can't just enjoy your music reproduction system as it stands. Just decide what you 'want' from this hobby and gravitate towards those that share your values. It doesn't mean anyone is right or wrong, it's just that this is supposed to be fun, so if there's an aspect you're interested in, chat with those who have explored that area and take all the naysayers with a grain of salt. Many if them haven't even experimented with what they are knocking down.

Yes,it is fun trying different things to see what works!I just used a left over AQ sub 3 cable on a p.o.s. subwoofer I have in a garage system,was a big upgrade!The sub almost sounds respectable!(almost)!

My system now is 2 xpa1 monos,Onkyo 886 processor,king cobra xlrs,type 4 wires,until rocket 44 s come in,B&W 805 Diamonds,Goldenear xxl sub,AQ Irish red sub cable,Marantz CD player.I know 886 processor isn't the best choice,but I still like it.

Without question if you have Good equipment the cheap Zinc jumpers for sure will mask the perfermanceat least a few % points .i have replaced enough crossovers ,connectors and wires to know .think about this .the internal wire 
on a 802 B&W speaker is of good quality  a similar thing applies to audio fuses.
just look up metal  resistance index the Top is Silver,Copper a  very close 2nd.
these nickel zinc jumpers are around a 10 on the resistance index. The higher the number the less resistance.Copper wire a 65 
meaning Zinc has 6x the resistance a Horrible conductor and like a steel fuse a Huge bottleneck. If you system is very resolving ,run them both in 50 hours 
then critically listen to 10 songs on each give at least 1/2 hr  after exchanging 
jumpers.  The facts speak for themselves.  The resistance speaks volumes,
as well as like wire used.
the companies figure you will use either by wire, or your own jumper.
recently Silnote made me 2 or of Excellent jumpers for $200
that easily gave much better detail especially upper midrange on up 
on my Sonus Faber Olympica-3 Loudspeakers. 
The stock straps work ,but give the custom Wire jumpers made of the same speaker wire  and resistance,capacitance,inductance are  very similar.
One more thing if you want your system to sound its best 
Stabilant-22  with 4-1 alcohol  which evaporates quickly. ,or 22 in uncut  version is by far the best contact enhancer that last 
for years not months ,just look it up ,all the most critical applications use this 
including NASA.  First clean all contacts with 99% Isopropyl alcohol.
order on amazon with applicators power cords are the worst  once treated 
protected give 24 hours  to hear max performance. Do every contact area 
on power cord blades even ground. Any contact area on equipment ,tube pins 
fuse contacts.Everything counts  !!

Get a 6 inch piece of Romex and use the copper ground wire, see how that works, costs pennies if you can't get one for free from someone.  If you don't like it, just biwire your speakers, that is usually best anyway.

I  would like to try biwire?Here is the problem.I have emo xpa 1 monos with the posts too far apart for most wires.A Agon post said he used two pair of banana plugs on each end of his speaker wire to make the connection.Is this a bad thing to do?would this negate any gains made by biwiring?I would like to try rocket 33 biwire cables but wouldn't want to cut them up to fit binding posts!

Chat with the cable manufacturer. They may be able to make a pair with longer tails on the amp end

Really depends on the speaker. It's quality and interior wiring.
Have Vandy 3A Sig's and they sound better with Cardas jumpers than they do with either the factory jumpers or bi-wired per Richards instructions. The Cardas really made the top end and highs blossom and open up as if I had 50% more speaker.
Like some one posted earlier it's a trial and error crap shoot.

I had tried both on the LF speaker binding post with good bass, then both on the HF with good definition, with the Jumper installed approriate; but, connecting the red (+) on the bass LF, and the black on the High frequencies binding post, there are more sound stage, for me the best with my speakers.  You must try many connexions patern for your best result.