@tcutter "magic of an FRSD is due to direct coupling to the amplifier, thereby avoiding a crossover"
do you use that magic in your headphones? LOL
Single driver full range speakers
Hi,
I am a simple home hobbiest. I've built an great sounding full range single speaker set (so no cross-over,, and that's the point. I don't want a x-over).
But of course it lacks terribly in bass. Is it possible (is it commonly done?) to add a woofer into the cabinet with no cross-over (again, simple straight wire to amp). Would it require wiring in parallel or series?
Currently each speaker has one TangBand W8-1808 full range 8" driver and sounds very good.
Thanks in advance, I really would like to know if this is possible (safe?) to do.
Rob
@tcutter "magic of an FRSD is due to direct coupling to the amplifier, thereby avoiding a crossover" do you use that magic in your headphones? LOL |
@tunehead As long as you don't play a 'full range driver' too loud they can sound quite good. There are two problems. The first and most obvious is bass. If there's bass excursion on the driver (meaning you are playing at a slightly higher volume) the motion of the cone to do the bass causes Doppler Effect distortion, which is readily audible as congestion. This is why they work best at either low volume or with material that has no bass. The second problem is beaminess, where the extreme highs can't be heard unless you are in a very specific location ('head in a vise'). So to get the most out of the driver, you'll want some form of crossover. Doing a crossover for the tweeter isn't a big deal so long as you are careful to roll off the 'full range' driver so there's no comb effect filtering interacting with the tweeter. The bass is a different problem. If you want the most out of the driver you'll use a subwoofer (possibly powered) and then have something to roll off the bass going to the 'full range' driver. Many people like to use these drivers with SETs since they are often fairly efficient. If you do this, the best place to roll off the bass is before the amplifier so it doesn't have to make bass, which is arguably the weakest aspect of SETs since it causes them to make a lot of distortion (and they can't do full power in the bottom octave either). But even if you have a PP amplifier, you might want to roll off the bass going into it anyway, since most 'full range' drivers don't handle much power. Bass is where the power is. By doing this way you still get the coupling between amp and speaker that is part of the 'immediacy' that so many people describe using drivers like this with no crossover. So if you are getting the most out of the driver, it will essentially be in a 3-way setup rather than full range with no crossover. |
I will add once more the statement made in an earlier Post. A Transmission Line design for the Cabinet will produce a improved structure to the Bass presence. A TL is also able to substantially reduce residual Bass energy where the Bass generated is more ESL Speaker than Cabinet Speaker. The Tunnel when designed correctly has the capability to absorb Bass Radiation preventing Upper Bass frequencies transferring into the Midrange and Upper frequencies, resulting in the masking these frequencies presence. The Tunnel also has an impact where the Tunnel increases the extension of the Bass frequency, where it can mimic Bass produced from a Driver with a substantially increased surface area. FWIW, I recently learned about a Speaker Builder who's work I been able to experience in use across many years, where I have been thoroughly impressed and Inspired, is now a using a main Speaker that is a Transmission Line produced by a Company known for their DIY TL Designs. Interestingly as well, the same individual prior to this most recent TL Speaker was using a 10" version of Single Driver TL Design that I am now using as a 12" Single Driver TL Design. These Speakers were built by a very successful Cottage Industry Speaker Company, who's support with other areas of design, is carried out by an individual who freelances and has been the producer of Speaker Designs for a few Companies with a Global Wide exposure in the Speaker Market. I am struggling to find fault with the 12" TL Design I am using, and auditions of these in use to others, has enabled them to win further favour from those who are new to them in use, especially when being driven by a 5 Watt Output SE 300B Amp. I can only explain how experiences had, have created a positive impression on myself, and if possible, share where experiences had by others of the same set up, have also been a reported on as being positive as the outcome. |