Should I buy a Class A Amp.

Don't be fooled by different amp designs.  Some Class A amps sound terrible, some Class AB sound wonderful.  Those are not the only designs out there.  And there are a lot of variations to those designs.  You need to listen to specific amps in your system to determine what you like. 

What is very important is the matching of the amp to the upstream and downstream components.  The amp MUST have a sufficiently high input impedance to allow the preamp to drive it.  Give yourself a chance to upgrade to a high output impedance tube preamp if you want. 

The amp must be stable into the bizarre loads presented to it by the speakers.  Give yourself a chance to change speakers without creating an issue with speaker matching.

Good amps will have high input impedance and run stable into a very wide range of resistive, inductive and capacitative loads. 

Not trying to start a flame war, but I personally don't think the Krell is a particularly good amp, certainly nothing to write home about.  IMO, certain speakers might sound OK, but the speakers have to cover the Krell's shortcomings.  Just my opinion.  YMMV. 

alzo spracht nutty:

" For example the no.336’s continuous output is 350 watts per channel @8ohms, 700 watts per channel @4ohms and 1400 watts @2 ohms- assuming the electrical circuit in the wall can support these extraordinary power levels. A "continuous" 2ohm test of the no.336 at maximum power would require 50 amperes at 120v. "

If you're a drivin' that there amp from a 20A line source, you ain't a gunuh make that there amp draw no 50 amps.  Caint do et.  Caint take what aint there.  Dont matur what kinda cabuls you're a usin.  If you're a using a standurd 15-5R wall plug, you aint a pullun no 50 amps

Just what kinduh fulz duz you thenk we ar?

Sum uf us are enjuneres.   

nutty

Not sure where you're getting the 1400watt output number.  ML's specs indicate 2 ohm output to 500wpc. 

Please post the source for the specs you claim.