What I do, and probably most of us do, is to bond the speaker to the stand with a few bits of Blu Tack.
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I use Herbies small thin fat dots. https://herbiesaudiolab.com/collections/loudspeaker-rack-decoupling-and-isolation/products/thin-fat-... |
I use the Thin Fat Dots that Dill suggested but mine are also bolted to the stands. The decoupling occurs at the bottom of the stands which sit on springs. Speakers = 105 lbs, Stands = 70 lbs The situation may be different for smaller, lighter speakers where many use Blu Tack to secure them to the stands. |
No you shouldn't. Not unless you can find something even more compliant. Once upon a time most speakers came with rubber feet. Then one day some idiot suggesting using spikes on top of the stands as well as the bottom. Several decades of confusion followed as we took this unfortunate detour. Now we seem to be heading back towards rubber feet once more. Springs, sorbothane, purpose designed footers might all be even better. For a truly radical solution to speaker isolation see this post by @b_mueller, "Actually, I did it: hanging the loudspeakers from the ceiling! Before, I used bedrock stands from Mapleshade. Loudspeakers were close to the floor and tilted upwards. Now, they are not tilted anymore and positioned higher, the tweeter is now at 110 cm above ground. Stil fighting with exact positioning- I have to control the position with the length of the wires which is tedious. The sound is brighter, highs are more pronounced. - I attribute this to the changed position. There is less punch in the middle and lower bass. Everything opened up, there is more space and texture to the sound, voices are more lifelike. Satisfaction comes at lower volumes.A spontaneous analogy: it is like swimming naked instead of wearing a swimming suit - there is more joy and life to the sound." https://forum.audiogon.com/discussions/miracles-in-audio-by-luck-by-good-choices-by-design-or-by-tweaking?page=24 |