Sounds like the Acrotec would be just as hard to work with as the A-M stuff, given that it's 46 ga vs. 41 ga. At least it's copper, which melts at around 200 F. higher. |
So THAT was the problem I was having! Live and learn. No, for the slow learners out there (sorry), you use the gum massager to hook the, er, hook on the RS-A1. A lot easier for me at least than using a finger. Dave |
Dave, You're not supposed to cue the RS-A1 with your teeth. |
Almost totally OT, but if anyone is having trouble placing the arm in the groove and picking it up at the end, I found a gum massager (seriously) at the local CVS that really helped. Has an angled head and rubber tip. Just FYI. I borrowed this arm for a month and loved its sound but ultimately found it too much to cope with, ergonomically. The gum massager helped, though :-) |
I've used the A-M systems teflon-coated silver wire in 0.5mm diameter. It's a bear to work with, unless you have excellent vision, but the results are superb. I think the Acrotec would be great, too, but I fear I would not be able to see it well enough to solder it. One slight drawback to the very thin silver wire is that it tends to melt at or near to the same temperature that melts silver solder. You've got to make your solder joints quickly. |
Hi Tessera--Did you end up doing this rewire? What wire did you use? |
Thanks for all the input guys.
A few years ago I replaced the leads with the factory stock but I did some surgery to the arm as well. The gentleman at Sakura Systems suggested that
I may want to discard the junction box behind the cartridge leads and simply go direct from cartridge to RCA at the base. This resulted in an improvement in sound because of one less connection in the signal path. The only downside is
that I had to increase the tracking force. Also, I don't have as much leeway weight-wise as before. This is because the arm is effectively lighter now that the junction box has been removed. If I were to buy a new RS A1 arm I would do it again because of the gain in transparancy.
Now I am thinking that if I were to remove the RCA junction at the base, and
proceed with one long lead directly to the pre, I would gain some more transparancy.
Dickson that Acrotec wire sounds interesting, it seems thin enough.
Thanks again guys, and I do recommend the removal of the junction box behind the cartridge leads.
Cheers, |
Why don't you use Acrotec 99.99997% (6N) purity stress free copper wire from Nippon Mining, Japan. It is 46 gauge copper wire with polyester varnish insulation. Available from www.percyaudio.com under the category 'Chassis wire'.
This should be flexible enough. I have the same arm and have planned to get around to rewiring...however too many projects at present prevent me from doing so. Hope this helps. Let me know how it sounds if you use the Acrotec. |
I just rewired mine yesterday with Discovery cable. I left the headshell leads as is, but I had broken the existing wire at the pivot, so needed a rewire. I was afraid this might foul the pivot, but have had no issues yet. And it's sounding pretty sweet as it burns in. Maybe not as much air as the original cable, but the midrange to mid-bass sounds more solid. Of course, this is with only 10-20 hours of use.
PartsConnexion has Discovery for around $15/ft. You could just extend it to the preamp input, I imagine. I chose to wire it to the RCA outs on the arm as I have a couple great phono cables. |
Hi
Would something like this be suitable?
http://www.a-msystems.com/physiology/wirerod/silvertef.aspx
They have 41 gauge but I am wondering if it is flexable enough.
The wire on my Schroeder DPS may be suitable as it is very thin and flexable, laquer coated copper.
Paul |
I would not do it. The tiny wires are there for a reason. They are very thin and flexible so the hearshell spins freely without resistance.
If you really, really want to attempt this, make sure the new wires are light and flexible as the original ones. |
Hi Totemman
I know Rob at Applause and he has tried to find a replacement other than the stock factory silk covered wires in the RS A1 with no luck. What I am looking for is an upgrade from this and long enough leads to reach the pre amp. I know someone on this board once mentioned doing this and I just can't locate the thread for details. As you know these wires are extremely fine and lightweight,
I have never come across such delicate tone arm wires before.
Thanks for replying |
Hi Tessera, I also have an RS-A1 tonearm and really love it. If no one here comes up with an answer for you, I would try Rob at Applause Audio in Toronto as he is the only one that I know of who has rewired an RS-A1. |
