Question about solder

Friend

I have been using Radio Shack Silver Bearing Solder for quite a few years with outstanding results. In fact, I used it to modify my crossover in my horn loaded loudspeakers as well as my homemade SET amplifier.
I haven't given solder a second thought...very satisfied.
Hope this helps.

Studio1

If it were me, I would wait for some better solder although I'm sure others will disagree. Wire is wire, amps is amps, and solder is solder, or not!

I use WBT Silver solder ($16)from MusicDirect.
If you urgrading ,don't downgrade on solder.

it's probably as good as the original

A good quality solder with some silver content (usually about 4%) will work fine for what you propose.

Radio Shack sells (or did sell) 4% silver solder. I've used it for the purpose you intend with good results. Good luck.

Kind of a split here between RS and the other Solders. I use the Cardas just as a re-assurance factor. After all as Overhand indicated, why scrimp now?

If you were building something new, wanting to use a high quality solder might make sense, but since you are only replacing the binding posts I doubt that the solder will make any difference at all.

Radio shack silver solder works + sounds ( ? ) great .I used it to replace speaker terminals on my Thiel CS3.5 speakers with cardas rhodium speaker terminals . The combo sounds wonderful .

By the way Radio Shack silver solder was recommended back in the 90's (?} by Cory Greenburg when he ran an article on building AUNT CORYS preamp .

thanks for your responses. I agree with both points, Jdombrow, your response makes the most sense to me.

Silver solder is only 4% silver, the rest is tin. You can pay more for it, but it is still 96/4 when you are done fishing out the money for it.

The problem with silver solder is it melts at a much higher temperature, so it is more likely to ruin something that is heat sensitive. Also, it is harder to get a good solder joint and that will affect sound far more than what alloy you solder with. It also requires a more active flux to flow properly and that is usually not good for electronics. But, for binding posts, it probably won't matter which flux you use.

Silver solder was made for plumbing, as the lead content will get into your water and that is not a good thing. 60/40 lead tin or 40/60 lead tin with a rosin flux is the most ideal solder for electronics you can buy. If you want to get fancy, go for it, just understand it is far easier to ruin something than improve it. So be careful when you use the higher temperature solders.

Here is a alternate viewpoint: A lot of years ago, I worked in space and missle hardware. NASA uses lead tin alloy as it was the most reliable and dependable joint you can make. Believe me, they could afford silver solder but it was banned. I am not sure what they are using now with all the lead free requirements floating around these days.