Power Conditioning on the Cheap

If you guys could only experience the PI Audio UberBuss with a Power Factor Correction of 1 plugged into a 30A dedicated line, you’d know what power conditioners were really capable of.

And I speak from experience.

Before you start talking about what equipment you can buy, find a really serious electrician (where are you, geographically?) who can "audit" your electrical set up. I spent money on power, but made sure the basics, starting at the service entrance, were in order.

Mr. Fremer did a video about the noise from his Generac (Mike?) which turned out to be a combination of long standing electrical problems, starting with corroded contacts where the meter plugged in.

In my estimation, it’s all an expensive bandaid until you address the basic delivery of power to your house, building and system.

See what you have and deal with the problems there first; the rest should come easy. I did not stint (this isn’t about saving money, but it may be that you need very little to "condition"). With "conditioning" or black boxes, I’m always afraid of baby with bathwater. To me, before spending money on conditioners and black boxes, it make sense to assure you are getting the best results from the power provided to you. A lot of residences and commercial spaces have terrible power that can be corrected by good practices. That’s where I’d start.

Thanks for all the responses.  I'll take it all into consideration.  Since more than one of you has mentioned installing a dedicated line I was wondering what something like that typically costs.  I live in three story old Victorian just outside of Boston where the electrical panel is in the basement and my listening room is on the third floor.  It is however, directly above the electrical panel so it should be a pretty strait shot between the two.  Also what gauge wire should I use 12, 10, 8?  Thanks again.

Regarding wire gauge, the gauge should be paired with amps.  Your electrician will know.  If your wire is already at 14 gauge for 15amps, and if you want to save some money and stick to that wire. Or you can upgrade to 20amps if you think you are getting electronics that need to run on 20amps.  https://www.familyhandyman.com/list/cable-and-wire-basics/#:~:text=The%20most%20common%20sizes%20you,%2Dgauge%20and%2012%2Dgauge.

Also, think about changing the outlet to a hospital-grade/studier outlet.  Or splurge for an extra $30 for one of these.  

I think the question of gauge depends on what you are doing. My guys ran 4 gauge from the output of a very large isolation transformer to a secondary panel adjacent to the listening room, and from there, ran 10 gauge from the panel to the outlets, which are 20 amp hospital grade Hubbells- made to spec for Albert Porter (and no longer available, bargain that they were). I think it is less about audiophile "approved" than good practices. The guy I alway call on is @Jea48. Simply for his practical knowledge of Code +.