Hi Halcro,
I admire this path you took, few would go this this route.
I like your selections of tonearms and look forward to future input on what headshell cart combinations you like best with the MA505.
I have a MA505 and a MA202L I would like to add to a new plinthe for my 301 in the near future.
Here is a good compilation of Micro Seiki tonearms I recently came across.
http://translate.google.com/translate?hl=en&sl=de&u=http://www.analog-forum.de/wbboard/index.php%3Fpage%3DThread%26threadid%3D4711%26boardid%3D2&ei=SgLbTOXhNsqBhQf1lonQAg&sa=X&oi=translate&ct=result&resnum=1&sqi=2&ved=0CC4Q7gEwAA&pre
Brad
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David, a few answers to yur questions are in this thread already, may want to reread again. I would think bronze was chosen mostly for the weight. |
What is the cage made of? I always thought that if I could find one of these tables to play with that it might be a good idea to have a disc cut out of plate, .125" to .250", of the same material that the chosen pod material is to attach to the bottom of the cage. This should fix the flimsy section that the feet are attached too and should help sink any resonance.
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Been out of pocket dealing with the remnants of Isaac. So sorry to hear about your phono stage, hopefully there will be a quick turnaround. I feel bad that it was my idea that caused your problem, for that I apoligize, although it sounds like you didn't attach the disc to the bottom. I could see that feedback would be multiplied by not being so. Maybe a constrained layer attached would have worked? No spare phono? I thought we all had one.
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I was also thinking shouldn't the speakers been damaged and not the phono stage. You may be right Lew that something was going array in the FF line stage. |
Halcro, on the backside I have a slot routered out for ventilation and a IEC receptacle for convenience.
Looking at a couple more weeks. Have to make top plates and drill and tap a bunch of holes for footers, top plate. Also waiting for another MA505 to be delivered.
The plinth is a CLD design I have used with good results with other tables. The ringing round metal shield I always thought was a weak link so it isn't being used. I had concerns about RFI so its good to hear you haven't experienced any.
Pods are bronze cored or hollowbar with a 2.5" ID. Less machine work involved. There not as heavy as I would like but should get the job done.
Plans down the road is to try nude and build another similar plinth with cantilevered armbords that will look similar to the Project RPM.
Deck is a 71. Built plinth to accommodate a 81 or 101 if I ever find one to my liking, don't really want a 81. Just got tired of waiting so went with the 71 so I would be ready when the time comes.
Good to hear your satisfaction, table looks wicked. |
Nice job Halcro. How tight are the threads on those spikes? My experience thinks you need a jam nut and they aren't tight.
A couple of pics first implementation of soon to joining the TT club.
http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h69/ecir38/Arm%20Pod/TT71/2.jpg
http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h69/ecir38/Arm%20Pod/TT71/1.jpg |
if they aren't tight, sorry |
isolated/decoupled or coupled. Chris looks to me you have the best of both worlds on your SP10. As a basis a table that uses pods I would couple, a table with fixed armboards I would decouple. But nothing is fixed in stone since it would be hard to compare any two situations for any examples in this thread, just too many variable independent to each users platforms. i.e. Halcro, it looks to me that your TT is decoupled from its steel structure sitting on those rubber pads which has given you a positve result. I would suspect the changes you are hearing are not so much the metal shield but more from how the deck is now suspended. |
Nice one Richard, makes pefect sense to me. Something I will keep in mind for future projects.
I have always found it difficult to find adjustalbe footers for turntables to my liking. I like the ones that trans-fi makes that I use on my garrard but they are just too large for most tables. He uses o-rings on the bottom of the protector disc so should be easy to try by removing one.
I would think your method would be easily adopted to a table with fixed armboard compared to a table with multiple pods. Suprised the market hasn't adopted this method yet that I know of. |
Lew, I think what Banquo is talking about is that wires that go from one board to the other are fastened by wire that is just wrapped around a stud that is soldered to pcb. This is a known problem and should be addressed if it hasn't been already.
See pic here for description notably at tranny's a/c connections. If you look closely the same procedure is used throughout. Now these pics are from a TT71 and not sure if the 81 and 101 are similiar.
http://amp8.web.fc2.com/amp-etc/record/victor/tt-71-2.htm
http://www.amp8.com/amp-etc/record/victor/tt-71.htm
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The problem I see with the post connection is if anyone has fooled with them in the past the leverage from the post will have a tendency to move the eyelet on the other side if done without caution. I would unwrap then rewrap with less turns and resolder eyelet on backside and solder the wire.
If you translate that link you would see the ones with solder are suppose to be the repair.
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Yes those post are soldered on the other side and are used in that fashions so as not to have to remove the pcb to service other conecting components.
To me this is a prime example of a reason to service the bearing of the motor, nothing last forever as much as the manufacture would have you believe.
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Banquo363, you beat me to it. BTW thanks for the report of trying your table without the tin can. |
Aigenga, what's the exact name of the app you are using? |
Aigenga, looks be just a iphone app. I have a droid OS, was thinking if others do try it would be best to use same software. Have to say I would be skeptical of accuracy of an app for this application. The one I tried was finicky. |
