Now I bought a Technics SP-10 Mk2, what's next?


Like most SP-10 out there, this one is functional but not beatiful. On/off switch is intermittent, strobe light is dim, power supply LED is out. I do have original Obsidian plinth, arm board, and Audio Technica AT-12P.

Now the questions:

Caps. Besides caps in the power supply, what else do I need to replace? Which caps in power supply need to be replaced? Does anyone has a list of cap values and recommended source?

Bearing. Is it necessary to disassemble the whole TT to clean the bearing and relube it or just relubing from the hole is sufficient?

Plinth. I know there are 2 camps, plinth and plinthless. If I were go to with plinthless, how do I keep the TT from moving if it sits on cones? Or cones like BDR are the wrong device to use and something else should go under? What about arm pod? I can use some helps to build one. If I use the existing plinth, where is a good source for new arm board?

Cosmetic. There is a place in England that will refinish your SP-10 for BP$500 or so. Has anyone attempted to do this himself? I don't care much for the clear coat, I rather remove them and reveal the metal underneath. I assume I can use light sand paper to polish the platter edge to remove any light scratch?

On/off switch. Where is a good place for parts? Also read there is aftermarket LED for strobe light, but replacement is tedious.

This will be a fun project that will keep me from listening for many nights...
semi
All electrolytics should ideally be replaced. You may then find that some of the functional defects you are dealing with will be cured at the same time. Once that is done, the function of transistors and IC can be fairly assessed and if all is well, the table can be properly calibrated. There are 8 lytics in the PS, not 6. And I think there are a total of 21 lytics in the whole tt. The values are listed in the service manual, which you can download from Vinyl Engine.

Music Technology and Bill Thalmann are in Springfield, VA, not in Texas. Bill is the best guy around for servicing the Mk2 and/or the Mk3.

If you are interested in a slate plinth for cheap bucks, contact me privately. I am emphatically NOT in the business, but I may have a spare one.
Really, power supply LED could be related to the caps? I did see it came on before, so you are probably right.

Only 6 caps in power supply need to be replaced? I read somewhere there are 8 need to be replaced.
The strobe may come back after the 140V capacitor is replaced in the power supply. The LED is an easy fix. I don't have the values of the caps but I recommend replacing the six caps in the power supply and having an IEC installed while your at it. Music Technology in Texas and Cullen Circuits in California are 2 firms that I have read do work on the SP-10's.

There are 2 ongoing threads on Audiogon and several websites that are informative. I suggest getting a manual from the SP-10 website. There are many people that have much more knowledge than I on this subject but this is a start.