NHT 3.3 , anybody modded this speaker?

I tried the Seas H1189 tweeters for a week after my last post in order to give them a decent break in period. Although very good I found some voices and music too sharp for my ears still. I believe that the Seas Excel t25cf001 is actually quite superior and well worth the extra money now!

IMO

They are great all-rounders but the bass is magnificent. As for the rough highs I replaced the tweeters with superior Seas Excel t25cf001's and they made the top end softer and more life-like to my ears. Electronically they are pretty close to a drop in so I didn't change the XO but a little Dremel tool work was needed and the flange overlaps a little but still looks good. I like them a lot better now. You could also try the Seas H1189 as it fits the recess (you still have to Dremel for the wire connector on one side) and the specs are even closer to the original, it too is an excellent tweeter and cheaper at about $50 vs. $120 EA. I like the Excel a bit better though but each has strong points. Yes, I tried both of them. Some will like the H1189 more I'm sure. Especially after a few days break in.

Try Humble HiFi for cap tests. You may be scared off by the price of the caps which MAY or MAY NOT help!

Also, US is right. Odds are? I don't know about degrade, but help?

I suspect your tech bowed out because it was a no-win situation.

Its about 5-2 you would degrade them somehow.They are classics to some.YMMV,B

I am retarded when it comes to this stuff. I usually have a tech who helps me but in this specific case he bowed out. He mentioned the combining of values but it seemed to overwhelm him so I shut up and left it alone.

I also have had time to listen and acclimate to the 3.3s and am thrilled with them in their current state. Maybe I would make a good thing worse if I were to futz with them?

'Odd' capacitor values are probably caps in parallel which add to the correct value.
Inductors? Several online calculators if you are willing to wind your own!
Also, many inductor makers will 'dewind' the next higher value to whatever you require.
My panels, for example, use a 3.5mh which is not a standard value. The next value up is a 3.7 or 3.8mh.

was able to find a schematic of the cross-overs and the part selections are very difficult to repeat with off the shelf values. I will most likely leave them alone.