need ideas to raise speaker stands

Ok. Up to now this has been a closely guarded secret. Do you have any sheets of that porous-looking styrofoam-like material used in rectangular sheets to cushion components in shipping cartons? Some pieces are relatively sturdy and won't deform with weight on them. Cut and fit. Your speakers will even sound better than if you blue-tacked them to the stands.

Why don't you (1) buy taller stands, or (2) tilt the speakers back a little?

Well, I disagree with Ken. Roller blade wheels are better than hockey pucks.

There are all sorts of coupling devices, tiptoes? cone-like things. If that's what you want to do.

Well, David, I don't actually use the styrofoam. I have tacky stuff between my speakers and the stands. One pair is on Harbeth wooden stands, though, and I'm thinking of trying the foam on the metal stands under the others.

But, you're on point, of course. Some speakers do better with decoupling. Some, I guess, are better coupled to their stands. It makes no sense to use hard coupling to rigid high mass metal stands with lossy speaker cabinets. But right now, I am listening to a pair of old Harbeth P3's, relatively inert, not lossy, with a couple of napkins between them and the metal stands. They sound wonderful.

Roller blade wheels are great. And cheap.

As DK explained above, I don't believe in coupling, for good reason. But I don't use Blue Tak. I use cheap tacky stuff you get at hardware stores, only so the cleaning lady or an earthquake doesnt knock my speakers off their stands.

Some speakers, I understand, may work better with those spikes and cones. I would go by the manufacturer's recommendation, or experiment. But I wouldnt assume that coupling is best, any more than I would assume that a rigid high mass stand is best. In fact, I'd be inclined to believe the opposite.

Of course, longer top spikes is a good idea if that's what you want to do. Not good for me. Maybe good for you.

Paul