McIntosh Autoformers and Speaker Impedance Dips (KEF Reference 3’s)


Hi, everyone -

I have a new pair of KEF Reference 3’s, and I’m currently trying a McIntosh MA9000 with them. I’ve sampled each of the 8, 4, and 2 ohm taps and decided the 4 ohm connection was the best option with the Ref 3’s. Still... So far, I’m underwhelmed. When I reconnect the Ref 3’s to my Anthem AVM 60 and MCA 525, instruments sound a bit more precise and delineated. My bigger concern is that the McIntosh seems slow and shallow in comparison.

I’m beginning to suspect that some of the difference I’m hearing and initially missing is a bit of brightness in the Anthem that I may have grown used to. Not sure yet. But I don’t think that accounts for the lack of impact/slam from the MA9000. It just doesn’t feel as dynamic. And it’s twice the price of the Anthem pair.

I’ve been reading up on autoformers, which McIntosh (uncommonly?) uses in their SS amps. The KEF’s have a nominal impedance of 8 ohms with a 3.2 ohm minimum at some frequencies. That sounds to me like a fairly dramatic dip, and I’m wondering if the autoformer, which creates separate 8, 4, and 2 ohm taps, is not a good technological match for the KEF’s (as opposed to an amp with one set of taps for the covered impedance range).

Then again, I’ve read up on the changes made to the newer McIntosh MC462, and a lot of focus is directed toward the “66% increase in dynamic headroom” over the previous model MC452 (the 452 obviously itself is a step up from the MA9000, so the 462 should theoretically be a dramatic improvement). So I’m contemplating the C2700 and MC462.

But again... If the autoformer pairing with the KEF impedance dips is problematic, I need to be looking at other options. What do you all think? Are McIntosh amps with autoformers a bad option with speakers that present dramatic impedance fluctuations?

Thanks for any input!

Rob
burkesrg
Is the unit broke in or brand new? They need 100 hours or so, if not the 8 ohm tap. I don’t know why but I have found a lot of speakers sound better on the 8 ohm tap. Less distortion and better bass control. First things first though.. leave it on for a few days, especially now in the winter.. You might be surprised.. Run cooler too (in the summer). Maybe it’s just a warm up, cable settle, break in, get use to issue.. Does have tone control? LOL

I lost a tweeter and shut down for a week. It took 10-12 hours to get things warmed back up again, and the new tweeter to quit boiling my ears.. Just the opposite of your highs. But my mids sounded like they were under water for an hour or so. Cooler weather can effect break in times.. and warm up times.. Lot of stuff to get warm ay... It’s a Mac..Once it’s warm though... leave it on for a few...

My break in system is a SS Pre MX120 a Cary V12r, and Nord NC500 right now.. Older Mac Tec and Cary Valves.. A full hour to get it warm enough, from day to day.. The little class Ds 10 min. BUT they are doing MB duty.. Get warmer quicker.. :-)

Regards
The MA9000 is a display unit. Not sure how much active time it’s seen outside my house. And it has an equalizer, but it’s turned off. I’ll give the 8 ohm tap another try tomorrow. Thanks!

Rob
Leave it on all night.. That will tell you a lot.. Just let it settle..Everything. Cables, connections.. let it percolate..:-)

Regards
I run kanta 2's with the mc452. The Kanta's stay below 6 ohms through the bass region, with a low of about 2.8 ohms at around 100hz so I run them on the 4 ohm taps. Much better control of the bass drivers imo. 
I agree, do lose some of the highs, but overall response is more flat.
I think I read once that people used to tune their systems using the different taps, 2,4,8,16 ohms.
I am running JBL L100 Classic speakers which are rated at 4 ohms. My McIntosh MA6600 is driving them off the 8 ohm taps. I getthe tightest bass and better control. On the 4 ohm taps, the sound was anemic. It doesn’t matter what the rating on the speakers are, use the taps that sound best to you.