Mc 240 vs. Prima Luna


Good morning all, hope everyone is well and ready for the holidays. 

I may need someone to talk me away from the ledge. (fairly normal state for me these days).

Story is this. I have been saving to add a second McIntosh 240 to my system. I have one now that does a fine job powering my Klipsch Heresy IV's. It was recently refurbished by Audio Classics in Vestal NY. (by the way, can't reccmomend them highly enough, especially Ryan).

Anyway, I'm getting close to being able to pony up for the second 240. Plan is to bridge them in mono and have 80 WPC effectivly. 

However.... I have been reading much about the Prima Luna's. Modern.. Warm... ability to roll several tube types.. sweet mid, good low end..

Do I stick with my original plan, get the second 240, (built in the US, tank like construction, known sound and cool factor).

Or do I chase the neat new shiny Prima Luna's ?

Any thoughts are welcome..

Doug

 

 

doyle3433

Showing 4 responses by oldhvymec

It’s pretty simple, NONE of the Macs sound worth a crap in Mono, Even built to be just mono. I tried a few times with mods and a few different thing. Nothing could get close to the sound of a Samra MC240 in dual mono or stereo mode.

The problem I have with most rebuilds on 240s is the cheap polly caps (yellow) that Mac NEVER used. It just kills the way a 240 sounds.. It takes paper and oil caps a few carbon comp resistors checked/swapped and a PS upgrade.

Don’t compare a yellow polly rebuild to a proper PIO rebuild.

Surplus Russian PIO KY44 and 77s will last 50 years if they last a day and sound better than the old bumble bees, (not the black beauties). Compaired to the pollies there is just something missing in the mids and they change the way my ribbon tweater sound. I’ve used the same types of drivers for a lot of years, 70s I don’t change. Small ribbons and planars.

You want 75-85 watts per channel use a MC275 and get REAL happy. It will blow the doors off a 240 and as for the Raven, I’ve never heard one. I’m sure it’s well built. It’s also 20 watts per channel. Apples Oranges. I’d doubt VERY much it would sound better on the Hershies. At least VS my MC240s.

61-70 MC275 you can get close to 90 watts per channel and a MAC sound.. It’s like no other with a set of GOOD 6550s or GL (type) KT88 and Telefunken valves Nothing sounds like that. It’s a Macs.. Again PIO and keep the Black Beauties, check the resistors and there are 4 you need to change and a PS upgrade.. 90 watts per channel.. Good bass! LOL better than anything mentioned here.. WAY better..

The cool thing would be to run a good 240 for the mids and highs and a 275 for the bass, If they are bi ampable.. THAT will really get LOUD and VERY clear..

You want to LOOK really cool get a MC225 TOO.. :-) I line mine up all pollished and I get happy. MC225, 240 and a 275 on a white tile counter top in the kitchen, (I built it too.:-)) is a pretty cool picture..

50 years with Mac, I love um’

Yea, just not with 240s in parallel or in series, you can run the 240 and 275 EITHER way. A MC275 were made for Klipsch Honestly a MC240 stacked is for PA, it will run the speakers just fine, they just won’t be the sweet sound of a MC240. They are VERY special one way but not EVERY way. They like 8-24 ohms too. They just sound better.

50 years with Mac, I’d be changing back to a MC275 before the bill started to fade if I was looking for true Mac sound.. Or better yet try a Cary V12r.. LOL Second best amp I’ve ever owned.. What a wonderful amp AFTER I worked it over.. I love it..

I’ve had VTL 750s and 1250 Wotons here a few times.. I’ve listen to a LOT of amps and did a lot of work on others..

A real nuget is a MC225 with just a PS upgrade and a few PIO caps changed for some of the non MPWs but NO yellow pollies.. They use MPW metalized polypropylene, DON’T you dare change them. They are the wonderful sound of the little MC225 amp.. Just make sure on the resistors and check for tolerance in the caps.. Virshay coppers are a GREAT resistor.. Pure (?) too I think it’s Pure..

Regards

 

Here is something I would try if I used horns, I don’t. Not because I don’t like them. I just had to make a choice on what I was going to use. I went with domes 50 years ago and small planars/ribbons 30+ years ago. I haven’t tried a bridged Mac on your speakers. For all I know it might sound great..

8-84" of push pull ribbons drivers don’t sound so good though. I might have spoken out of place.. Do a listen on a single speaker bridged at 80 vs a mono or stereo at 40 watt, they sound different (stereo vs dual mono vs bridged). I’d try it series and paralleled but stick to one speaker.  I’ve done it both ways with a 275 it does make a difference for high frequency ser vs par and clarity with spl..

A MC275 with a healthy PS will push a 1 or 2 ohm load. You can fry eggs on them too. BUT they keep on running as long as you keep a fan on them. I’ve seen Macs keep on driving Infinity 9.0 Kappa and only get hot, when other amps were dropping dead like flys with that speaker. Krells, Mac SS MB, Mac MC23 or 2500 Threshold, Pass, Modded Son of Ampzilla and a Mac MC275 no problem.

Regards

I would sure give it a try femoore12. Just so everyone knows, I do NOT use valves to run bass. 300hz and down is SS.

80hz and below is normally GR OB servo subs

100-300hz is direct coupled to 12k class Ds and 6, 8" mid bass drivers per column and I use a 2496 active XO.

300hz up is all valves and I use a hybrid line source of 8" Monsoon planars and normally a single Aurum Cantus ribbon tweeter. I use a lot of their drivers. They have a great AMT too.

I do have one system I listen to when I’m in my work room. MC225, MX110z, Sony ES777, Thoren 124 and a pair of tricked out Infinity RS4bs. That system is old as dirt, but the system I listen to most of the time.. The only place I use tubes for bass and it is the smallest Mac (25 wpc) I own. it’s funny. Sure sounds good.. It’s actually my favorite for itty bitty, Just don’t tell anyone.. LOL

Regards