Linn's advice about bi-amping; question

Your biamping instructions were perfect, although I had to cannibalize a pair of interconnects from my tuner (how much are Linn analog inteconnects??). The sound is a bit fuller and the bass a little more pronounced, but I wouldn't say I notice an overwhelming improvement. If anything, the high end got slightly more harsh at louder volumes. Overall, though, a good imptovement. I'm looking forward to going Aktiv. By the way, are the Aktiv cards specific to the speaker or to the amp -- I keep seeing ads for speaker-specific Aktive cards.

Kirk

Going Aktiv will let you go 5 to 10 hZ lower (60hZ). Mine became much more dynamic. The highs will be better as well. Bi-amping helps, but the way to go is Aktiv. I went Aktiv on all (5) with LK85's. It really turned things up a notch.
Dan
dedicated audio

Try putting your Tukans close to the rear wall. Going active will bring a little more base, however Tukans are not base giants.

My Tukans are nice, but the system lacks a little something in the lower registers. Will biamping give me noticeably more bass? Will going "active"? I'd prefer not to have to go get a sub right now.

Thanks.

Kind of confusing, but here it is...

BE SURE THE SPEAKER JUMPERS ARE REMOVED and all power is off. You can short your amps if not

-Remove speaker jumpers
-Each wire on the K400 should have a connector (4 left/4 right)Your left set of K400 wires will transport the treble down one half(pair +/-) and the bass down the other half(pair+/-) to your left Tukan. The right set of k400 will carry the treble/bass to signal to the right Tukan
-Remove the pre-amp jumper on the Majik
-Install L/R rca interconnect from "pre out" to "input" L/R on the LK85
-Connect the L/R speaker treble +/- to the LK85 (top connection on the rear of your Tuks
-Connect a L/R pair of RCA interconnects from the "out" on the rear of the LK85. Run this "back" to the rear of the Majik and connect at the "amp input" (the remaining side where the pre-amp jumper was removed)
-Connect your bass speaker wire L/R for each Tukan from the Majik to the lower L/R inputs on each Tukan

Your low level L/R now comes out of the Majik into the LK85 to power your tweeters L/R, it daisy chains back low level L/R from the outputs on the LK85 back to the Majik amp section to power you woofers L/R.

You now have a separate amp powering the L tweeter, a separate amp for your R tweeter, a separate amp for the L woofer and a separate amp for the R woofer, each being supplied by it's own set of speaker wires +/-.

You are now "bi-amped" correctly.

Hope this helps
Dan
dedicated audio

The instructions looked like bi-amping instructions to me (e.g. removal of jumpers).

I am not certain that I understand what you said.

I am not familiar with your equipment.

However, There are two distinct things you can do. 1)bi-wire and 2)bi-amp. These are completely different. Bi-amping is FAR more beneficial. In order to Bi-amp you need to disconnect the passive crossover IN your speakers which I do not see in the instructions so you are actually bi-wiring here apparently. Just so you know the diff. Hope I am not confused by your instructions.

Sincerely, I remain

From what you've said above, it sounds as thought you've got the K400's in a bi-wire configuration (ie. Two connectors on one end, and Four on the other) All you'll need to do is modify, or have it done for you, the one end of each speaker wire, so 4 connectors will exist and both ends, or all the wires are singley terminated.

Since you've had to pull the pre out to power amp in jumpers, I don't know that the Majik could still be used as an amp.....call Linn for that one (888)-671-LINN.

If it does, then just hook one set of speaker wires from both the left channels of the Lk85 and the Majik, and the other to the other channels. (keep the amps matched), then connect the wires to the speakers, after removing those little plates on the back of your speakers, you'll need the little wrench that comes with your speakers, or improvise as you'll have to pull off the gold covers on each terminal on the back of the speaker. Don't do all of them at once as many Linn crossovers are held in by these and then you've got to pull out drivers..... and match all the wires from amps to speakers!

As an aside, Linn recomends using the best amp for the tweeters, for all speakers.....I know, sounds funny, but that's what they'll always say.

Can you go Activ with that bi-amp combo??

Ken