Jumper plates vs bi wire


I just auditioned the new Harbeth P3esr speakers against my LSA Statement 1 Monitors and although I was blown away by the mid range and overall sound I am keeping the Statement 1 Monitors. The complete depth and tonality just suits my room better. That said, I used to have the LSA bi wired but have changed from 2 mono blocks to the Pass Labs XA 30.5 Amp so I need longer cable. I decided on the Crimson cable but the LSA are set for bi wire. I am now running with a simple jumper plate instead of bi wire. I haven't ordered the cable yet but need to decide on bi wire or just regular straight cable and use these metal jumper plates. Opinions?
128x128voodudrew2
My Maggies came with Chrome Plated Steel jumpers. I replaced them with hand-made #6 solid copper. Some slight help, but the real help with come when I pull the panel and get rid of the fuse and all those extra wires and connections.
I'd say simpler is better.
Bi-wire? No
Bi-amp? Yes

What is your 'jumper plate' made from? Any chance of getting a jumper fabricated from some of your old speaker wire?
Rather than purchase two pairs of good cables for bi-wiring, I highly recommend putting the money towards a superior single set (one pair) and a great pair of jumper wires (such as the Nordost “Norse” – or perhaps even a better set of jumpers depending on your budget). Then wire the speakers in a diagonal configuration.

Diagonal wiring:

Secure the positive lead of one speaker cable to the positive terminal in the set of LOWER FREQUENCY terminals of one speaker; with the negative lead of the same speaker wire secured to the negative terminal in the set of UPPER FREQUENCY terminals of the same speaker. Then, use the jumper wire to jump the two positives and two negatives (directional flow: from the terminal where the lead is secured to the “empty” terminal – in this case, from the lower positive to the upper positive; and from the upper negative to the lower negative). Repeat for the other speaker.