Jolida 302 b disaster


So it appears that my jolida 302b's power switch is going. Sometimes it works and sometimes it shuts down shortly after powering up. This started right after I sent the unit into jolida to have the factory mods done and have the RCAs replaced. I contacted jolida and they said they'd send a replacement switch but no sign of it after a week. Once i get the switch i still don't know what to do with it.
Is there anyone who lives in the madison, wi area or knows someone in the area who would know how to replace the switch. I am aware of paragon in madison but would rather not have the work done there.
Does this seem like this is Jolida's fault or should I assume it's unrelated to the recent work done? Any suggestions as to what I should do?
roggae
This new switch has six pins on the back as opposed to the four on the old switch. What do I do? Will this switch work? Ugh

Your new switch is a double throw and will work just fine. As long as the switch is in properly, the best way to figure it out is with a multimeter that has a continuity tester.

Two of the tabs will not be used. You will use the middle tabs and the other set of tabs that provide continuity. Either the two above or below the center tabs.

If you hook it up wrong, it will either not power up or always be on. You should use both tabs of each of the two rows required.
Does the old switch have no light and the new one has a light (power on)? Just a guess.
so here are some pictures of the gutty works. any help is greatly appreciated!!

https://picasaweb.google.com/markechaney/SwitchRepair?feat=directlink
So the switch finally died. Jolida sent me a new one. This new switch has six pins on the back as opposed to the four on the old switch. What do I do? Will this switch work? Ugh!
Jolida 302 does not have bleeder resistors, just like most Chinese amps.
Power up with no tubes and it will store B+ almost forever :)
Fixed problem. Took apart switch and bent the contacts back to make contact. Easy.
If the Jolida does not use bleeder resistors in the design it can possibly store lethal voltages for hours and even days after being powered down.
And make sure that the unit has been powered off for 10 minutes or so. This will give the caps enough time to discharge...

-RW-
I realized this was not a disaster but neglected to retitle the thread. Thanks for the reassurance folks.
I should think a week gone by is not enough time to think your switch is not on the way.I would hardly call this a disaster and the changing of a switch is pretty much an easy task. I myself have done it a few times when I had a DR-9 amp and its rocker switch light would go out frequently. Its just a matter of taking out the old switch and replacing with the new. Usually it just plugging it in and that's that with no soldering needed at all.Just make sure when you open the top and make the change the unit is off.I hope this helps and if you don't receive the switch give them another call.
Having switches in power amps fail is not uncommon, it is hard to see how it is related to the mods but since I don't know what they did who can say for sure. Finding competent repair men is a task worth of one of the labors of Hercules,BUT the good part is this is not, in most cases, a difficult job. If you never get the switch an alternative is to wire around it and use an external one to turn it off and on. In either case anyone who is reasonably competent with a solder iron should be able to do it; it shouldn't require a HIFI specialist as you are not dealing with the circuitry but just an AC line.