Isoaltion why so many options? Confusing


With so many tweak options what works best, I have heard so many variables to brass isolation of components, maple, etc etc etc. Doing some research I have found some cheap solutions to isolating my components (Maple) for my speakers. Brass spikes for my speakers now I am looking into glass

Here are a couple of cost effective approach that I have found during my research:

Ebay maple item #120092997874
Ebay brass isolation cones #280090083911

I have even found glass isolation spikes, nice and fat and aluminum but I dont know much about glass and aluminum qualities to isolate components, any experience or knowledge of these products???? I would really like to know! With so many options what really works best? Is it an opinion base subject or a scientific approach to isolation of your components? Does spending more money really means your getting the best or "we" are just making unwise decisions? I consdier myself a blue collar worker, working for the City of Chicago as a Firefighter doesnt mean that I am rich but I do have to take a conservative approach to making my music sound best with the lowest cost as possible, not being CHEAP just conservative on how I spend my hard earned money.

Just looking for honest advise on tweaks, especially isolation of components. Thanks to all in advance
chgolatin2

Showing 1 response by fishboat

The term 'grounding' I think is more often referred to as 'coupling'.

Mikelavigne's is a good general description. A couple more thoughts. Spiking (coupling) a rack or platforms to a rack..or speakers to the floor often shines when what you're spiking to has very large mass...like a concrete floor.

I never completely grasped the bearing-isolation approach, though I haven't looked into it much either, as the isolation may work well in the horizontal plane, but with respect to vertical...they should transmit vibration very well, which rubs against 'isolation'. Maybe I'm missing something with them.

Within the isolation & coupling schools there are the 'light & stiff' school and the high mass school. Light & stiff results in higher frequency resonances which are easier to tame via additional means. High mass results in lower frequency resonances which are much more difficult to tame, if they can be at all. If you're system is on concrete then maybe the high mass coupling school is the way to go, in combo with select isolation devices. If you're on a suspended floor then maybe the light-stiff school is for you, in combo with select isolation devices. No doubt people mix & match all this, come up with something that looks cool, costs alot, sounds OK, and victory is declared.

If you're looking to rack your equipment & address vibration-resonance for an effective & low dollar, go to the audio aslyum-tweakers board and search "sad balls". The science-demonstration balls are made polynorbornene, a substance known to damp energy(vibration) extremely well. The balls can be ordered from Educational Innovations. Unfortunately you'll have to buy a superball along with each sad ball. Cut each sad ball in half and you'll have isolation 'domes' to put under your equipment. Give the superballs to kids, but not to dogs.

You've already looked into the IKEA Lack-Lyte rack, or are aware of it from another post of yours.

FWIW, I just went through the rack-coupling-isolation phase and assembled a four-shelf Lack rack(<$100). Each rack is spiked to the one below via practice arrow points ($4/dozen). The rack is spiked to a suspended floor via 1.5" spikes (Madisound, $10). Each component sits on sad ball half-domes. This is the light-stiff school approach. Works for me on a number of levels. No doubt you can do better with respect to coupling-isolation, but the $$ vs value-results curve will rise pretty quickly from here.

Keep up the good fight. I'm about an hour north of you or I can send a picture if it'll help.