Isoaltion why so many options? Confusing


With so many tweak options what works best, I have heard so many variables to brass isolation of components, maple, etc etc etc. Doing some research I have found some cheap solutions to isolating my components (Maple) for my speakers. Brass spikes for my speakers now I am looking into glass

Here are a couple of cost effective approach that I have found during my research:

Ebay maple item #120092997874
Ebay brass isolation cones #280090083911

I have even found glass isolation spikes, nice and fat and aluminum but I dont know much about glass and aluminum qualities to isolate components, any experience or knowledge of these products???? I would really like to know! With so many options what really works best? Is it an opinion base subject or a scientific approach to isolation of your components? Does spending more money really means your getting the best or "we" are just making unwise decisions? I consdier myself a blue collar worker, working for the City of Chicago as a Firefighter doesnt mean that I am rich but I do have to take a conservative approach to making my music sound best with the lowest cost as possible, not being CHEAP just conservative on how I spend my hard earned money.

Just looking for honest advise on tweaks, especially isolation of components. Thanks to all in advance
chgolatin2
tweaks to control resonance in your gear fall into two different catagories; 'isolation' and 'grounding'. the tweaks you describe 'ground' the gear....they do not isolate the gear.

cones, pucks and shelves typically absorb and dampen resonance....in other words they make the resonance different in some way. adding mass or weight can also 'ground' the gear.

isolation requires some sort of 'floating' mechanism; there are a few different types of isolation; 'ball-in'cup' devices are at the bottom of the isolation food chain....then there are mag-lev shelves, air bladders, whole rack system isolation shelves and finally industrial strength active isolation.

grounding can be beneficial; you need to experiment on what sounds best for your system. with grounding some devices will make things better but most make them different.

every isolation device i have tried make things sound more like music.

my daughter lives in Chicago...thanks for helping to make her safe.

good luck.
No need to thank me Sir, I do my job from the heart and its my calling to help others that are in need even if I have to lose my life in the process. Maybe God will take me to heaven, lol!

I've done my duty in Iraq/Afghanistan?Russia with the US Air Force and with the US Army 82nd Division. Also, I served as State Police officer for 7 yrs so I have done quite a bit in my few years of existence (35) :)
Chgolatin2,

You said you hope God will take you to heaven. He will if you repent and trust. The good deeds you do as a fireman are sooo kind but that wont help.

Anyway, sounds like your going to be pulling your hair out with this tweak thing now! I think maple slabs as an isolation plateform is a great economical way to go. Organic sounding.

If I where to do it all over again I would use many various products that that Cable company loans out. That way you can see what many do in your system and give you a good education process.

Remember, have fun doing it!
Spikes are designed to work with carpets. So unless you have another floor type leave things as they are. If you currently have steel changing them to brass may or may not make a difference.

If you have another floor type just get steel footers (Lovan) and there are other brands made from brass or other exotic material that vary from a few dollars to a few hundred dollars.
The term 'grounding' I think is more often referred to as 'coupling'.

Mikelavigne's is a good general description. A couple more thoughts. Spiking (coupling) a rack or platforms to a rack..or speakers to the floor often shines when what you're spiking to has very large mass...like a concrete floor.

I never completely grasped the bearing-isolation approach, though I haven't looked into it much either, as the isolation may work well in the horizontal plane, but with respect to vertical...they should transmit vibration very well, which rubs against 'isolation'. Maybe I'm missing something with them.

Within the isolation & coupling schools there are the 'light & stiff' school and the high mass school. Light & stiff results in higher frequency resonances which are easier to tame via additional means. High mass results in lower frequency resonances which are much more difficult to tame, if they can be at all. If you're system is on concrete then maybe the high mass coupling school is the way to go, in combo with select isolation devices. If you're on a suspended floor then maybe the light-stiff school is for you, in combo with select isolation devices. No doubt people mix & match all this, come up with something that looks cool, costs alot, sounds OK, and victory is declared.

If you're looking to rack your equipment & address vibration-resonance for an effective & low dollar, go to the audio aslyum-tweakers board and search "sad balls". The science-demonstration balls are made polynorbornene, a substance known to damp energy(vibration) extremely well. The balls can be ordered from Educational Innovations. Unfortunately you'll have to buy a superball along with each sad ball. Cut each sad ball in half and you'll have isolation 'domes' to put under your equipment. Give the superballs to kids, but not to dogs.

You've already looked into the IKEA Lack-Lyte rack, or are aware of it from another post of yours.

FWIW, I just went through the rack-coupling-isolation phase and assembled a four-shelf Lack rack(<$100). Each rack is spiked to the one below via practice arrow points ($4/dozen). The rack is spiked to a suspended floor via 1.5" spikes (Madisound, $10). Each component sits on sad ball half-domes. This is the light-stiff school approach. Works for me on a number of levels. No doubt you can do better with respect to coupling-isolation, but the $$ vs value-results curve will rise pretty quickly from here.

Keep up the good fight. I'm about an hour north of you or I can send a picture if it'll help.
Chgolatin2, check this site out:

www.symposiumusa.com/tech3.html

Peter Bizlewicz clearly defines the various isolation techniques and devices. As for his bona fides (and we all know that this can ultimately mean little), he won a Westinghouse scholarship to MIT in the early 70's and has been at the absolute forefront of isolation technology in high end audio. His designs have been mimicked by many of his competitors (and are protected by several US patents) but he would be the first to acknowledge that only your ears can judge the efficacy of any device or technique. Even if you don't purchase any of Pete's products the site will help to educate you regarding mechanical and airborne energy.

I do not work for Symposium but I have known Pete, professionally and as a friend, for 25 years. I have been using his isolation devices since 1991 and heartily recommend them.
I probably have tried 50 isolation devices over the last 30 years. I have definitely found that spring or soft isolation is no good. I have also found that some hard isolation also hurts. It is quite clear also that some isolation works on some devices and not on others.

The three best isolation devices I have found and on a scale of 1-10 with 10 best are: Neuance, 5, Acapella 7, and Halcyonics 10. As always, YMMV. My overall conclusion is that cheap and common solutions rest on poor understanding of what is going on and that the theory of what must be done is quite poor.