Acoustic-Lab Stella Novus sub, 15 – 500 Hz, adjustable, w/ remote control
Is There A Big Difference Between Subwoofers From Different Manufacturers
This is likely the last thread I’ll be posting about subwoofers.
I was just wondering if there is really a big difference between subwoofers from different manufacturers if the quality of the subs (which is mostly governed by the specifications) are fairly similar. Also, with the assumption that the set up is properly done to ensure a seamless integration with the main speakers.
There have been many comparisons or experiences on subwoofers shared by members here on this forum, people who upgraded their old sub to a new seemingly superior sub. Or people who added additional subs to the system which contributed to an overall improved bass performance. I’m referring to the former, the comparison between single subs.
To cut to the chase, I understand high quality subwoofers which are essentially higher spec designs will usually produce better performance than lower spec subs. When people upgrade their subs, I assume the new subs are superior in terms of specification, either a larger sub with larger drivers, higher power output of the internal amplifier, lower frequency extension or the combination of any of the above.
Has anyone compared subs which are fairly similar in quality or performance when upgrading from the old sub?
Example. If someone upgraded from a REL T7x to an SVS SB-3000 or SB-4000, I suppose the SVS would be an upgrade since they come with larger drivers, higher power output, everything superior spec-wise. What if the models are closely spec’d? Will the subs sound fairly similar or closer to each other ?
Say, the comparison between
SVS SB-3000/4000
Rythmik F12SE / F15
REL S510 / S812 / Carbon Special or Limited
I presume the subs will still sound slightly different but the difference may not be night and day if the quality or specifications are closely matched?
- ...
- 83 posts total
@akg_ca -- Didn't see your post until after I had mine posted. You make excellent points. @mijostyn -- Re: driver size, I absolute agree with "The notion that larger drivers are "slower" is mythology to the max." It may (or may not) be interesting to note that the digital IMAX cinemas for a few years now have been using subs each comprising a quad array of 12" woofers (looks like (modified) Eminence LAB12's). I believe they usually have about 6 or 8 of those suckers installed in each theatre, and they're very powerful and clean sounding. Cinemas usually go with a number of ported dual 18" subs while some newer installations use 21"-loaded cabs, ported as well, but in any case it's interesting to see IMAX going the deviating route with multiple 12" woofers. Whether this is a consequence of a possible issue with lack of cone control in bigger drivers, I don't know, but in large cinema installations there'll be prodigious subs cone travel for sure. The question is how lack of cone control in larger drivers (i.e.: 15" on up) relates to a domestic setting. A larger cone may be more difficult to control, but it also has to move less for a given output, and for cone control to be an issue you need cone travel to speak of. The cones of the 15" B&C woofers in my dual corner-loaded tapped horn subs only vibrate up to a few mm's at most at SPL's that seriously pressurizes the room; lack of control is a nonissue here, believe me. Remember the horn on the front side of the driver acts as a force multiplier, so with the combined and summed output of the backwave you have an effective air radiation about 3x that of a 15" direct radiating driver. And there are two of them, corner-loaded, hence it figures why the cones only move so very little, also explained with them having excursion minima at the tune. Bass like that doesn't force itself on you at ground level, but simply energizes the whole space around you very smoothly and effortlessly. Bass just happens as opposed to feeling delivered with effort. Yes, big cabs dominate the room, as my TH's would testify at 20cf. each. Corner-loaded though don't I feel it to be an issue, but seeing them out in the open they're just huge. |
Absolutely there are differences between subs, each woofer or sub woofer. The size of the woofer, whether sealed or ported, sealed seems boomer, to me. Ported is more defined and crisp. The design or choice of physical materials and shape and size of the speaker, if it’s a single or tower dual woofer, the size and shape, the thickness of the cabinet, power of the amplifier and if it’s external or internal, cross over points, weight, mine is nearly 90lbs. Aluminum woofers dual 10”, and internal amplifier with the ability to easily go down to 19 hertz. Price point is a good way to asses quality, mine is a 6000.00 + new sub and is a direct from manufacturer purchase. I would compare it to Rel but better vs old Velodyne which made awesome subs along with Sunfire and todays big market players are SVS, Hsu, And other small brands. Just like how no two speakers sound the same from different manufacturers the same goes for subs. Some work best for music other home theater applications, some can do both. You just need to try out what works. It’s a budget based. |
I figured out how to take care of my crossover needs, two good .022uF caps, $5-650 Each, depends on how tree bark I smoke:) After more research I will select the best ones for the cost which means $20-100 more likely on the lower end of that. The exponential cost to get better is something I can live without. Great to be lifelong DIY, my sub setup would cost many times more to get even close if I bought a manf one.
|
- 83 posts total