Is There A Big Difference Between Subwoofers From Different Manufacturers


This is likely the last thread I’ll be posting about subwoofers.

I was just wondering if there is really a big difference between subwoofers from different manufacturers if the quality of the subs (which is mostly governed by the specifications) are fairly similar. Also, with the assumption that the set up is properly done to ensure a seamless integration with the main speakers.

There have been many comparisons or experiences on subwoofers shared by members here on this forum, people who upgraded their old sub to a new seemingly superior sub. Or people who added additional subs to the system which contributed to an overall improved bass performance. I’m referring to the former, the comparison between single subs.

To cut to the chase, I understand high quality subwoofers which are essentially higher spec designs will usually produce better performance than lower spec subs. When people upgrade their subs, I assume the new subs are superior in terms of specification, either a larger sub with larger drivers, higher power output of the internal amplifier, lower frequency extension or the combination of any of the above.

Has anyone compared subs which are fairly similar in quality or performance when upgrading from the old sub?

Example. If someone upgraded from a REL T7x to an SVS SB-3000 or SB-4000, I suppose the SVS would be an upgrade since they come with larger drivers, higher power output, everything superior spec-wise. What if the models are closely spec’d? Will the subs sound fairly similar or closer to each other ?

Say, the comparison between

SVS SB-3000/4000
Rythmik F12SE / F15
REL S510 / S812 / Carbon Special or Limited

I presume the subs will still sound slightly different but the difference may not be night and day if the quality or specifications are closely matched?

 

ryder

Showing 6 responses by ieales

The room becomes less of a factor the more subs you add. With a swarm (4 subs) the room becomes almost a non issue.

No it doesn’t. The work done by Toole is for even bass everywhere, not accurate bass anywhere.

 

It’s simple to add a first order passive HP to roll the lows out of the mains.

Are you speaking about a line-level HP filter like the Vandersteen M7-HP High-Pass Filter?

No, an inline filter between pre- and power amps. THERE SHOULD BE NOTHING BUT WIRE BETWEEN THE POWER AMP OUT AND THE LS DRIVER TERMINALS. If everyone would multi-amp, the world would be a better place... and a lot of cable controversy would evaporate. I shudder every time I think about rollercoaster speaker phase response. 😢 Doubly so when tube amps are mentioned. The math makes my head spin. 😕

high-level connection is genius

No, it isn't as it does nothing to clean up the mains' low end. The interference between the mains and subs makes the bottom nebulous.

I'm sure all those extra connections and wire are destroying the sound 😉

 

Negative comments on REL SQ or build quality do seem to be rare.

Not many have heard properly integrated low end in a home HiFi.

Far too many sub integrations lean toward MORE, not BETTER. As a composer pal once remarked in my room "EVERY other subwoofer I've heard just boomed!"

@akg_ca Spot on

It’s simple to add a first order passive HP to roll the lows out of the mains. The -3dB point should be slightly above the mains’ anechoic -3dB. Doing so effectively doubles the power available for the rest of the spectrum. Polystyrenes, while hard to find today, are preferred.

That being said, most subs today are missing some of the necessary controls

  1. Multiple LP slopes
  2. Multiple XO ’flavors’: LR, BE, BU...
  3. Continuous phase control
  4. Polarity inversion
  5. Delay
  6. Sufficient mass to prevent ’strolling’ on non-rigid floors above crawl spaces or on second+ stories

The Martin Logan X series has some of the above. The rest can added, if necessary, with external DSP. A failing of the ML series, other than Chinese origin, is insufficient mass. 10kg weights, while not particularly Audio Salon, are effective:

 

@mitch2

Sorry, I was lazy and did not look up the M7-HP. IMO, it’s overly complex and definitely overpriced. I eschew as many connections as possible. DIP switches have no- place/nowhere in an audio cct.

I’m talking about a simple passive HP for the mains and direct connect to subs.

The capacitor values are for the main amp and calculated C = 1 / ( 2 * π * f * R )

The trade-off of course is whether the benefit of relieving the main amp/speakers of reproducing the lowest frequencies is greater than whatever detriment results from passing the signal through the HP componentry.

There is no comparison. If you were adventurous, you could simply add the caps to the main amp input. Driver/box low end interaction problems simply disappear. The mains gain a large increase in mid-bass fidelity and articulation.

The Marchand look like decent units, but more complex than required. Another is Xkitz Electronics.

It’s not difficult to assemble a first order passive and with good parts, it’s 100% effective and nearly failure proof.

 

@tomic601

Replace some decade old dip switches. It’s usually pretty audible.

Rel subs are made as well as any commercial subwoofer.

Don't think I said anything about their build quality. My objection to them is the direction the company took. More bling and flash rather than useful features. WAF vs HPF