IEC to a 2 prong-wire amp

I've done the job several times.

First determine there is sufficient room to clear internal components. The next problem is cutting the chassis for the male IEC.

Supposedly there's a die that will do a perfect punch on the chassis, unfortunately I don't own one. I got it done by tracing the plug outline with a pencil, drilling multiple holes inside the tracing, grinding with a Dremel tool and finishing up with fine swiss metal files.

The male IEC pins are hot, neutral and ground.

The hot and neutral hook up where the old lamp cord went and you can then decide if you want to attach the ground to the chassis.

When I converted my AirTight ATM 3, I left off the ground because it did not have one from the factory. Early Atma-Sphere amps had no ground either but may now.

I assume your doing this for the convenience of detachable power cord and perhaps allow for some cord testing.

I've also done this. The only difference from what Albert said is I bought a nibbler tool from Radio Shack (I think they're about $10). It "nibbles" out chunks of sheet metal - one at a time that are approx 1/16"x 1/4". Since I centered the IEC recepticle over where the old cord was, I didn't have to drill, simply began nibbling from the original hole out. I finished with a hand file (the nibbler leave ragged edges and went to go real slow for the final fit so I didn't cut too much out.

You'll want to be careful that metal cuttings don't get lodged on circuit boards and creaqting a short.

I also left off the ground wire . . . same rationale as Albert's.

Sounds simple enough. I do have lots of power cords that are collecting dust so might as well put one to use. I would like to know if the IEC is coded so one will know which end is which?

I use a Volt Ohm Meter and select continuity. Putting one lead on your power cords AC plug end and the other inside it's female IEC, you get a "beep" when you match up both ends. Make note of what goes where.

Next test your household wall outlets. They are marked internally as hot and neutral. If you don't know which way yours are wired, use the same VOM to determine.

Put the hot lead (red) in one vertical hole and the ground (black) in the round ground hole. If you read 120 volts, your red lead is connected to the hot. If you get zero you found the neutral.

Match that with previous results of beeping out the IEC and you have everything labeled where it goes.

As a personal note, I find it easier to draw a picture of the IEC results and where the hot and neutral are in the wall socket. Saves brain cells when your in the heat of soldering or trying to figure out what to connects to what.

if you're referring to polarity, it's likely that the IEC will indicate "N" for nuetral; "L" for live, "E" for "earth" , or something similar. I'm looking at one now and that's how it's marked. If it's not, the Live pin is on the left side if you're looking into the receptical where the cord plugs in, with the ground pin on the top.

I'm still playing around with this idea. I am wondering if the silver solder at radio Shack is good enough. I thought maybe down the line I might want to tweak something more expensive. Also has anyone tried the new battery operated solder gun?

I'm thinking for buying the IEC from Audionut. is there a difference in quality?

I do this to every amp that I rebuid , which is alot of amps....20-30 a year.... I use a Green-lee punch which costs 400.00 to cut the hole ..... I used to do it with the nibbler...I then wire the socket to the two old wires, I then run the ground wire though a switch to the chassis ground.....That way you can switch the ground in and out , which ever works the best for you....

If you don't want to mess around too much and get your hands dirty, this may be the easy solution. I've no experience with it myself, but I bookmarked this page in case I ever needed one.

http://www.dedicatedaudio.com/inc/sdetail/148