I am restoring a Stromberg AU-42 - 6L6G question

Well, I completed the restore and it looks and sounds great. All of the coupling caps I replaced were really leaking and way out of spec, one was leaking 2amps at 400v and not going down, most increased current leakage during testing which should not be the case.  A couple of the bypass caps would not even register as caps with my Sencore and my cheap tester.  I also replaced a few resistors that were out of spec.   I did use cans, sorry, I like to keep original as I can and they fit really nice and tested excellent.   I mostly used orange drops for everything else.   Yes, I even took out the time to unsolder pins to add the new components, I was going to do the old wrap around but I kinda knew I wouldn't before I started.

I am not changing the nonpolar plug and I am currently waiting on the safety caps.  If the .1 line caps that are installed in there now are anything like the other caps I have replaced, then they are coming out either way. 

Yes, I mean 6L6 cathode bypass cap and from what I read going from 50uf to 100uf will have very little change in response of the 6L6 but going lower than 50uf will.  Someone actually pointed me to a bypass circuit calculator and it figures it all for you.  This calculator does not have the 6L6 as choice (mainly pre-amps like 12AX7) but going from 50uf to 100uf does not change the gain and very little effect on the response.  You go under 50uf and you start to lose the low frequency response and lowers your gain.    At this point I think I am leaning toward the 10/10/10/20 and 80/40/30 can caps.  People tell me and I am in agreement that the individual caps are superior to the cans but call me anal/thorough, I would like to keep the look without the extra clutter.   Now my dilemma is replacing the current .1 Stromberg paper caps on the primary side and secondary filament side with safety caps.  Been reading about the X1/X2 and Y1/Y2 safety caps and this is my new dilemma.

I have looked at some of my design books with notes. I believe that going higher with the bypass cap from 50uf to even 100uf will not make much of a difference in the way the tube will function. If I go lower than 50uf, from what I can tell, this will start to effect the functioning of the 6L6 responses. I am still doing a little research on this before I actually purchase the parts but I agree that the 70uf would be okay but then again the 80uf would not make much of a difference. Going with the 80/40/30 will give me the exact capacitors I need for the 5Y3 power stage. Your thoughts. My guts was always that it would be okay but it has been a while since my courses in tube theory, like 1982.

Gut the current cans will not work, I tried the first one because I wanted to see if the gutting would be clean but it was not so if I went that way I would use some cans that I already have gutted.

I realize I can keep the caps for original look and install individual caps but I do not like the extra clutter. I am doing a total recap, using orange drops for most of the caps when I can and sliver mica for pf caps. From my vendor it will cost me $75 for the can caps I need and $42 for individual caps or a savings of $33. I know I could pocket the extra $33 since customer has already paid me for the restore but, when possible, I like to keep the original look with less clutter. My wife says I am thorough which is really being anal but we call it thorough being a better term for me. I really like your comments, you can never stop learning.