How to remove ground pin on power cable

I can think of 101 ways by which a chassis can become live.

millercarbon’s post should result in his account being terminated.
His advice could be L E T H A L !!

@nemesis18 - do you have the sub plugged into a different circuit? Is it on the other leg of the power service?

Are you sure you need it plugged into a different circuit?
See https://forum.audiogon.com/discussions/should-subwoofer-be-plugged-into-same-circuit/post?highlight=breaker&postid=1843996#1843996 - A/C circuits can supply several multiples of rated breaker capacity for brief instances ala musical peaks. If your system is properly configured so the sub frequencies are not in the mains, they do not require the power.

DBA? Then use an isolation transformer. The life you save maybe your own!!!

Which like I said, ignorance and irrational fear abounds. Now you know we have two grounds, the utility ground everything has plus the redundant earth ground they made us add.

Like most everything, mc is ignorant on electrical wiring. There is one ground and that is the utility neutral. The Earth safety [ground rod, Ufer, copper pipe] is connected to it in the event lightning hits the electrical service. The Earth safety takes the current to earth, not the neutral.

The Earth safety on equipment is to prevent the chassis becoming live in the event of accident or failure.

Nervous Nanny:

1. remove safety ground pin
2. slide heavy amp w captive cord into rack
3. pinch cable between amp and rack, cut through insulation to hot lead
4. drop amp
5. cut off toe

I see SatTV and Cable 'grounded' to hose bibs on houses plumbed with PEX.

@builder3
AFAIK, the Earth safety is for when lightning hits the electrical service, meaning the power from the street. The mesh of earthed neutrals in the neighborhood might just carry enough current to limit the damage.

Sadly, modern building codes remove all those nice tall utility poles with their fat earths, leaving my roof the highest object in the neighborhood for a ¼ mile.

If my house gets hit, all bets are off.

Adding  E F F E C T I V E  ground rods ain't just hammering in another piece of copper.

These links are worth reading.

Earth Ground Measurements
https://www.polyphaser.com/News/DownloadFile?downloadGuid=c68ebee3-baa1-470e-b61c-ac0bc2f97eba

Ground Impedance
https://www.polyphaser.com/News/DownloadFile?downloadGuid=3c633c3a-8c65-4585-8226-48edf2813252

Ground Rod Theory Installation
https://www.polyphaser.com/News/DownloadFile?downloadGuid=25400030-29fb-4981-862f-c24c4118b556

AC Surge Protection
https://www.polyphaser.com/News/DownloadFile?downloadGuid=c7d58ebd-2dfc-454b-bb08-4641bad5955b

Yikes if you insist on the removal of the ground pin at least install a GFCI receptacle in the place of the standard outlet. In the event your sub has an issue it will trip before any damage to person or property.

"According to a 1999 study by the American Society of Home Inspectors, 21% of GFCI circuit breakers and 19% of GFCI receptacles inspected didn’t provide protection, leaving the energized circuit unprotected. In most cases, damage to the internal transient voltage surge protectors (metal-oxide varistors) that protect the GFCI sensing circuit were responsible for the failures of the protection devices. In areas of high lightning activity, such as southwest Florida, the failure rate for GFCI circuit breakers and receptacles was over 50%!"
See https://www.ecmweb.com/basics/article/20901772/how-gfcis-work

A GFCI will only help if the CBLF is grounded and not contacting the neutral. A GFCI will not trip if the CBLF is between Hot and Neutral.

If you have GFCI, test them monthly and after any electrical event, preferably with an external tester.