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How to choose an upgraded tonearm.

In two recent threads on selecting an upgraded cartridge, some of you suggested a new tonearm was in order. Since I’ve never chosen a new tonearm, I’m asking you all for some advice on how to do so for that future event.

My current turntable is a VPI Classic 2 with a VPI JMW 10.5i unipivot tonearm. A new Lyra Kleos MC cartridge is on order. I’ll likely be changing to a gimbal style tonearm. The rest of the system is Magico A3 speakers, a Luxman 507uX MkII integrated amp, a Marants Ruby CD player, and a Shunyata Hydra Denali power conditioner.

What price range should an appropriate tonearm for the Lyra Kleos be in, that would also be in keeping with the price point of my Classic 2, The Classic 2 was in the $3-4,000 range, as is the Lyra Kleos. I’ll be purchasing new, not used, and will not be upgrading any other equipment than the tonearm.

Pardon some rookie questions, but what attributes should I be looking for in a quality tonearm? Who are some of the better known manufacturers, and which models of theirs might be workable? Are there other alternative to either a gimbal or unipvot tonearm? Are tonearms generally interchangeable between different manufacturers turntables? And what improvements in sound quality might be gained by upgrading my tonearm?

Since this is all new to me, any other advice you might have about things to consider would be greatly appreciated and will help kick off my research. Thanks,

Mike

skyscraper

Showing 2 responses by dover

dover
2,187 posts
 

@skyscraper

The problem you have is that the Classic 2 was designed as an integrated package and changing arms is going to be difficult.

On most TT’s you would have a removable arm board, and when choosing an arm you would find the spindle to pivot distance and check to see if the arm will fit on your turntable. In you case you have a mounting distance to the VTA tower - slightly different to pivot to spindle.

If the tonearm doesn’t fit then you may end up drilling new holes in the plinth and devaluing the TT for future sales.

It seems to me the most logical choice you have is the VPI FB10 Gimbal arm which uses the same base as your current arm.

The problem is that @ $4.5k for the VPI FB10 there are far better arms available for that spend -

2 examples are

Kuzma 4Point9 ( 9" arm ) - probably won’t fit without drilling the plinth.

Reed 2G/4P - The Reed arms have a 10.5" option with pivot to spindle and VTA tower very similar to the VPI. Might possibly fit.

In my view you really have only 3 practical options -

Instal the dual pivot upgrade

Purchase the VPI FB10 Gimbal arm ( sell the unipvot ).

Buy another TT which gives you a wider arm choice.

 

 

 

 

dover
2,187 posts
 

@skyscraper

I’m not a fan of external arm boards. Instead of explaining the technical reasons, which will invite another 50 odd posts debating the issue, the reasons I would give are

- ugly

- if the cleaning person lifts the pod to dust underneath, and forgets to tell you they may have moved it, you will likely end up with misstracking and damaged records.

You stated that you wanted to keep the Classic 2 for the long haul. If that is so it may be possible to mount a surface mounted arm as @lewm suggested with minimum intrusion into the plinth - 3 screws that when removed could be plugged and touched up quite easily.

Another possibility for a surface mount arm would be to get an arm board cut and use the existing VPI screw holes to mount the arm board. Then mount the surface mount arm to the arm board. This would mean no extra holes in the existing plinth.

The only question with this solution is whether there is enough height from plinth to top of platter to accommodate arm board plus arm and allow plenty of VTA adjustment.

The tonearm manufacturer should be able to advise you of the minimum height from arm board to platter top required.

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