Has anyone switched from Class AB/A to Class D? Was it better? Was it worse?

@kofibaffour I apologize then for my false accusation. 

I can no longer chuck around 50+ pound components. I switched to PS Audio class D monos. I’ve never heard my Magnepans sound better. Very clean(quiet) background. Totally non fatiguing, open, billboard size soundstage. My speakers sound like they just breathe easier. Happy! 

Lots of advice and opinions already given.

Here is my 2 cents worth.  Disagree, agree, send me a note telling me I am an idiot it is all good.

This is a false statement - They have one purpose: to reproduce what is given to them accurately. Changing the character of your sound should be done at the preamp level. Enjoy!

I can prove that any day of the week.  Not trying to pick on anyone but each component does what it does for a reason.

My company manufacturers tube base products.  We have repaired and upgraded all audio products for 30+ years now.  In our shop we currently have this month CJ, ARC, VAC, VTL, Marantz, Plinus, Tron, Counterpoint, Prima Luna, Rotel, Cary, on and on.  We have heard more equipment that most anyone in various systems.  So what I am about to say is based on these experiences.

Most of the input here is from experiences of products that are similar.  Designs have not changed much over the years.  You are comparing similar products in YOUR own system.  That is not the best way to judge a product but rather a good way to select something for your system.  What sounds good in your system may not sound the same way in another persons system.  Preference is what that is.

In one of our systems we have Vandersteen model Seven speakers.  After fixing a Art Audio 28wpc tube integrated power amp, we put that amp in the system to make sure it was working properly.  To our surprise,  it drove the 83db speakers amazingly well.  Who would have thought.  I almost kept the amp for that reason alone. 

Think of BMW - they make various models and then they offer the M series.  What is the difference.  Well the M series is an upgrade to the stock model in general terms.  Some want that and are willing to pay the price and some aren't.  Same goes for audio.  In most cases, upgrading an existing component can get you close the the M series without the cost of the M series if you follow me.  That is where we come in on repairing and upgrading components.  We get to hear the stock versions and the upgraded versions.

So like what has been mentioned already, choice selection is a preference but you can upgrade your component to sound even better for less than you think. You simply don't know what will work unless you hear something in your own system.  The goal is to enjoy music in your own system IMO.

Happy Listening.

"Think of BMW - they make various models and then they offer the M series. What is the difference."

The BMW M series’s original intent quickly diverged to a "M = Marketing" strategy to sell more upgraded BMW’s to those desiring the M badge of honor.

Originally, BMW had to sell a minimum number of street-legal cars to qualify for the European Motorsport series. They were true street-legal race cars at first and they sold out quickly. That is when the BMW marketing dept. realized an opportunity to increase profits. The M cars of today are far from the original spirit of M.

In the audio world, we see this sometimes with upgraded casework that gives the audio-jewelry effect that if it looks good, it must sound good, just like with the M-series’ aggressive styling and colorful racing stripes. Anyway.

In my case, better.  After the second repair of my 65 lb. Odyssey Stratos amp, which required lugging it to and from shipping facilities, I gave up after it failed a third time.  I was determined to find something powerful, yet much lighter.  My solution was Mike Kallelis' Arion Audio S500 stereo Class D amp.  It was more powerful, at 500 watts per channel, than the Stratos.  But the big surprise was the excellent synergy between the S500, my McIntosh C220 tube pre, and my Ohm Walsh 2000 speakers.  An annoying peak at about 7kHz, which I had attributed to the Ohms, vanished.  The Arion might be very slightly more neutral and less warm than the Stratos, but the elimination of that peak was worth way more to me.  I have had the amp for 6 years now, with no issues and no interest in upgrading it.  It runs cool, and weighs only about 22 lbs.  A very good value, too, IMHO.