@dover Funny, I had a drawer full of the box plate Mullards you mention. Nice if one likes creamy, warm, and slow, with no air. I'll concede that Teles can be a little lacking in warmth. However, I maintain that you can adjust tonality elsewhere in the system without slowing it all down in the phono amplifier.
Garrard 301 - Project
I have been contemplating for a while which turntable to pursue given so many choices. Every time I look around, I just can’t help drooling over a fully restored Garrard 301 or 401. Aside from being an idler-drive, I keep reading and hearing about their unique ability to reproduce music with its sense of drive and impact thus making them very desirable to own. And with available meticulous restoration services and gorgeous plinth options, what’s not to like, right!
Would you please share your experience, good and pitfalls (if any) with a restored Garrard 301 to avoid before I go down this path.
And what about the IEC inlet and power cord, would they be of any significance. My two choices would be Furutech FI-09 NCF or FI-06 (G) inlets.
I have already purchased a Reed 3P Cocobolo 10.5” with Finewire C37+Cryo tonearm/interconnect phono cable with KLEI RCA plugs option.
Still exploring Cart Options, so please feel free to share your choice of cart with Garrard 301 or 401.
And lastly, I would like to extend my gratitude to @fsonicsmith, @noromance @mdalton for the inspiration.
Showing 35 responses by noromance
Link to my aforementioned Black Treasures. |
@lalitk That is good news. As long as you are hearing the best qualities of the turntable system. When I experimented with supports and feet, I noticed that tightness, speed, extension, and intensity were impacted by materials and solutions necessitated by compromise. |
@lalitk Sorry to hear you are having issues. It appears you are getting acoustic feedback. I doubt there is any issue with the AudioGrail work. It is most likely caused by your stand and suspended floor. Can you reinforce the floor from underneath? If your plinth is one of the hollow types, you may not have enough mass to damp structure-borne vibrations. I have no issues with big 12" REL subs. |
@tomic601 Received the photos. Thank you. Audiogon can wait until the fishing season is over. All in good time. |
@pindac Indeed. I search or sort my collection in the Discogs database. This always turns up some nuggets. Note that I have my collection stored record store style, not library book style.
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@lalitk Like the person who can find everything among a seemingly chaotic mess, I know where most albums reside. Seriously, I group jazz, blues, male vocal, female vocal, rock, folk, theatrical, and classical. All artists are grouped together no matter what category they’re in. I don’t use dividers or formal delineation. |
@lalitk Have you listened to the rig yet, or are you psyching yourself (and us) up for the big reveal? |
@gladmo All good. |
@lalitk Indeed. I may have even advised that at one stage! |
@lalitk Checked out the new 301 and plinth. Looks great. I see Matthew went with the standard rubber idler and not the Audiosilente one. |
I've used the Precision Audio Components 20mm oversize aluminum platter on 2 tables. It's the one sold by Classic Turntables. It brings improvements to bass, and soundstage size. I use the SPH bearing. Reviews indicate it sounds better than the CTC one. It's east to fit. No need to flip but access to underneath chassis is required. |
I’ve heard this from a number of old-school idler fans. However, I’ve two 401s with the Audiosilente idler and both sound better than the originals. The 401s were refurbished and therefore the original idlers were in good condition before substitution. I suspect the increased detail and blacker backgrounds were not what they were looking for.
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@tomic601 Jim, I may have taken liberty with the actuality of the Graveyard! It is conceptual in intent. Korf were good enough to accept the return. As was Audio Sensibility. I do have the SPH copper platter mat among the usual assortment of tubes, cables, old turntables, amps, etc. |
@lalitk I’m inferring from the sable color that you are buying your 301 from Matthew Taylor. Re virgin stock units, he’s been supplying Audiosilente idlers on newer refurbished units. Do you know if yours will have one fitted? I would also check with him to ensure both upper AND lower idler bearings are replaced. What plinth did you go for? Apologies if you’ve already stated it above. |
@lalitk Congrats on that. I saw your comment on mulveling's post. What arm are you using? |
@pindac It would be wonderful to see photos. Please consider setting up an entry in Virtual Systems, or by the utilization of a preferred photographic sharing utility. One can describe beauty in endless prose but beholding the vision is the revelation. |
@pindac Back in the 80s, we had a Garrard 301 motor unit mounted on four toilet rolls. With a Grace 707 arm. It sounded better than sitting on granite. Perhaps the roll of paper acted as very fine layers of wood. |
@lalitk Hmmm, they lost me at loss of detail. See more comments on sound here
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@lalitk Possibly predictably, I’m not a fan of damping or locking things down. Listening without sounds more open and free. You can buy a reasonable device on Amazon for $27 which looks great but doesn’t add anything. I know. It’s in the graveyard. PS Jeff's a great guy. |
@pindac I know who said it, obviously. I'm not sure it matters. This is not a trial by fire. 😉 I looked into using Panzerholz myself, having worked with plans and quotes with a respected builder. I may revisit.
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@pindac Indeed. Although, I have a graveyard of parts that came with big promises. The most recent rejected items were the Korf ceramic headshell, the SPF 1.2kg copper platter, and the Audio Sensibility OCC phono cable. This is not to say these fine items are not excellent in themselves; they just didn’t work for me.
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@lalitk More than welcome. Note that when you try an aftermarket component, you can always reverse the change. The reason many folks keep the new part is because it sounds better than what was there before.
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@fsonicsmith I completely understand where you are coming from. In fact, I agree with you. That’s why I have two in the main area—wood with original platter and slate with the other stuff. Note that I am using 401s with the better motor (for stereo) so torque may be less of an issue with a heavier platter. I use the PAC 20mm oversize aluminum platter on the slate with a SPH grease bearing. Far better soundstage and cleaner bass. Anyhow, I believe that the difference between a well-sorted wood, and a well-sorted slate unit is far less than a non-refurbished unit with an old SME arm on a poor support. Isn’t it all about getting the info from the grooves in the most musically satisfying manner possible? Steve |
I know we’ve posted on this before in previous threads. The more things change, the more they stay the same, huh? I’ll reiterate for this thread. As far as comparing the two plinth technologies, I have a 5 x 13 layer solid Baltic birch ply 12" arm plinth topped with 1/3 solid walnut and "veneered" with 1/2" maple. I also have a 50mm PA slate plinth. 2 Audiograil 401s. Modified with 3rd party idlers, bearings and platters. 2 Jelco TK 850L arms. Same Decca London cartridges. They both sound great. I’ve compared them side by side. The slate one is more transparent, airy and neutral, gets less confused, blacker backgrounds, faster etc. I would temper this with the clause that if one likes a warmer, tubier sound, the slate may be the proverbial cup of tea. As far as damping, soft PA slate (amongst other) is made up of layers which defract and absorb noise.
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@lewm There’s good info on @fsonicsmith Virtual System. |