FR64S tonearm overhaul


I just bought a nice Fidelity Research FR64S tonearm off Ebay to have a second vintage arm for my SPUs and maybe a few FR cartridges in the future. The arm is in great condition but still has the original copper wiring.

I am looking to refurbish the arm myself and was thinking about rewiring it with Ikeda silver and a new Cardas DIN plug. Does anyone have experience with the sonics of silver vs. copper wiring in the FR arms? What other things should be replaced and where can I source the parts?
latinsamba1

Showing 4 responses by lewm

luisma, True balanced phono stages, other than the MP1, are not that uncommon these days.  Oddly and sadly, more so among solid state devices than among tube types.  I guess I wrote up the balanced idea mostly because some dealers propagate the notion that you need some major rebuild to "convert" from single-ended to balanced operation of a phono cartridge.  This is not true; the standard DIN connection can be done either way, depending upon the topology of the cable between the tonearm and the phono stage.
To mate with the DIN connector on the base of the tone arm, I would advise just getting the phono cable you like best. And there is no limit on how much to spend on that cable, because in my opinion the tonearm is that good. If your phono stage permits balanced operation, then this is the time to select a cable that has the DIN connector on one end and an XLR connector on the other end, and be sure that inside you have two separate conductors for signal, one for the positive phase and one for the negative phase of the signal. There would be a third conductor for ground. In this way you can connect your cartridge to your phono stage in true balanced mode, and your balanced phono stage will operate best that way. 
If anything, leave the internal wiring (and therefore the bearings, etc) alone. Just remove the DIN plug altogether and solder directly to the internal wiring where it meets the DIN plug leads, so as to create a straight shot from headshell to phono input. You can do that without de-constructing the entire tonearm.
If it's in excellent condition externally, it's unlikely that any significant degradation of the internal wiring has occurred, and if it did, you will soon know it, because the circuit would short itself out if bare wires are touching each other or touching the inner walls of the arm tube. (This assumes that the degradation would involve the insulation; the conductors per se should be ok no matter what, altho naked copper would eventually oxidize. Oxidized copper is not so conductive; oxidized silver is as good as pure silver.)