Found a Milty Zerostat alternative

ghdprentice, same with me.  Constantly AFTER usings the Zerostat my TT felt matt sticks to the vinyl, and has to be placed back onto the platter.

I also use it on the vinyl just before I use my carbon brush, hoping that it will make sweeping dust easier. It is also no help there. 

Recently I received a new record whose' plastic sleeve was so staticky that it was stuck to the vinyl like it had been vacuumed sealed. I zapped it with the Zerostat to see if the sleeve would loosen up and I saw no difference. Then I zapped the vinyl and empty sleeve and saw no change.

Since it is useless I might dismantle it to see if I got an empty gun.

Most likely you are using the zerostat incorrectly.  There's no shame in that. Zapping an LP inside its wrapper or sleeve, whether paper or whatever, is never going to work.  One reason your LP may stick to your felt mat is that felt itself is a good donor of negative ions to vinyl.  But also, if you remove static charge from the surface of an LP with the LP held in the air OFF the platter while you zap it (the only way it works according to my observation), that takes care of the side you play only.  The bottom side that goes against the mat will still be charged up to begin with.  The Shure Corporation published a long paper on static charge many decades ago in which they showed that charge migrates from one side of the LP to the other, after you treat one side. Finally, when you are using the zerostat, with the LP in your other hand, pull the trigger all the way back with the gun held away from the LP.  Then start with the gun near to the LP and very slowly pull it away while very slowly releasing the trigger, ideally so slowly that there are no "clicking" sounds.

I too have a 50 year old Discwasher Zerostat that still works.  I can check the operation with a small probe that consists of a 10 nf capacitor in parallel with a neon bulb.  A wire from one leg of the capacitor/bulb circuit is held near the Zerostat output while operating it.  A second wire from the opposite leg of the capacitor/bulb circuit is formed into a small loop that you can grip between thumb and finger. The bulb will briefly glow on the slow pull of the trigger and the slow release of the trigger.

I have used Zerostats for about 50 years, and they definitely reduce static on my LPs.  I can test the static by using a small piece of styrofoam taped to a thread.  If there is a static charge on the LP, the styrofoam will cling to the LP.

I believe Zerostat recommended this way of using it on an LP, and it's what I do:

Holding the Zerostat about 12" away from the LP, I shoot it sequentially at three spots on the circumference of the LP; then I shoot it at the center of the LP, but point it away from the LP before releasing the trigger on that final shot.  If I'm holding the LP and doing this, both sides get destaticized from treating just one side, in contrast to what @lewm  says above.  (I actually only discovered this yesterday by testing each side with the styrofoam.)

Now, I should mention that the humidity in my home is kept at about 50%, and most of my LPs are treated with LAST preservative, which seems to reduce static.  I also have slit the sleeves of most of my LPs, so that the sleeves can be opened like a book to remove the LP.  Perhaps, results would differ in a dryer space (more static) or with LPs that are not treated as I described.

What I actually said was just a quote from the Shure Corporation white paper on static charge.  They observed that if you neutralize only one side of an LP the charge on the other side will migrate to the treated side.  I would have to review that paper to recall under exactly what conditions. Your finding that both sides are discharged by treating only one side is surprising, but I didn't measure the untreated side when I did my experiments, so I am in no position to disagree, apart from quoting from the Shure paper.

I will also say that in my own experiment, using a ES charge meter to monitor results, I only aimed the gun at the label from a distance of about one foot (not 3 different spots), with the trigger fully depressed.  (Now my memory is playing tricks; I may have brought the gun to the LP while also depressing the trigger slowly, or not.) Then I gradually released the trigger while also slowly moving the gun away from the LP until at about 3-4 feet I fully released the trigger.  This reduced the measured charge on the treated surface from -11kV to around -0.2kV.  It is not clear to me how you are using the gun; at what points in relation to the LP surface do you squeeze then release the trigger?