Found a Milty Zerostat alternative

I have used Zerostats for about 50 years, and they definitely reduce static on my LPs.  I can test the static by using a small piece of styrofoam taped to a thread.  If there is a static charge on the LP, the styrofoam will cling to the LP.

I believe Zerostat recommended this way of using it on an LP, and it's what I do:

Holding the Zerostat about 12" away from the LP, I shoot it sequentially at three spots on the circumference of the LP; then I shoot it at the center of the LP, but point it away from the LP before releasing the trigger on that final shot.  If I'm holding the LP and doing this, both sides get destaticized from treating just one side, in contrast to what @lewm  says above.  (I actually only discovered this yesterday by testing each side with the styrofoam.)

Now, I should mention that the humidity in my home is kept at about 50%, and most of my LPs are treated with LAST preservative, which seems to reduce static.  I also have slit the sleeves of most of my LPs, so that the sleeves can be opened like a book to remove the LP.  Perhaps, results would differ in a dryer space (more static) or with LPs that are not treated as I described.

It is not clear to me how you are using the gun; at what points in relation to the LP surface do you squeeze then release the trigger?

@lewm 

My bad, I could have stated this, but was struggling to think of how; now it's obvious to me--I aim the gun at 12:00, 4:00, and 8:00.  Then at the spindle hole.

Where did you get the idea to release the trigger so slowly as to avoid hearing the click?  I don't recall that being mentioned in the original instructions which I've been using all these years.  I think that would add to the difficulty, especially if you're doing three complete shots, and I am curious if it makes a difference.

@lewm

I am eager to try your method, since it would save time and extend the life of the Zerostat, since fewer shots per LP would be needed. The slow pulling away of the Zerostat from the LP in your method sounds like how one uses a demagnetizer to demagnetize tape heads.  Since you have that meter, it would be interesting if you could compare the effectiveness of the two methods.

The method I’ve used involves keeping the gun 12" away from the LP, squeezing the trigger and releasing it for the first 3 shots, but not releasing it for the central shot until the gun is pointed away from the LP. I do not squeeze or release the trigger slowly as you describe--there usually is a click as I release it. I don’t try to squeeze it fast or slow, really, and I don’t think the speed was mentioned in the Zerostat instructions. I will see if I can find the original instructions; I may still have them.

I generally have done this with the LP on the turntable, and it works that way or if I hold the LP in my hand. But I don’t know if both sides get destaticized if it’s done with the LP on the turntable. I think the act of removing the LP adds a charge to the side that rested on the platter, so it would be hard to test if it works on both sides when the LP is on the platter.

If your method destaticizes both sides of the LP with one shot, it would be economical to destat the LP both before and after play. Unfortunately, even though I slit the LP sleeve, some static charge still develops from the act of removing the LP, although I think the side that’s down when I lift the LP gets more charge.

@lewm  @ghdprentice 

I found the box in which my most recent Zerostat 3 came. Here are the instructions:

Hold Zerostat about 300mm (12 inches) away from the object. Squeeze the trigger slowly; a powerful stream of positive ions projects over a spread about 400mm (16 inches). Release it slowly, and negative ions are produced.

I also found the box for an original Zerostat that no longer works. Its instructions read:

(1) Hold the pistol 250 to 500mm (10 to 20 inches) from the surface to be treated, pointing directly at it.

(2) Slowly squeeze the trigger, taking about two seconds to do so. Positive charges thus produced will neutralize any local negative charges.

(3) After a pause of two seconds, slowly release the trigger, again taking about two seconds. Negative charges produced by this action will neutralize positive surface charges.

(4) Large, heavily charged areas may require several operations for complete neutralization.

In these instructions for the original Zerostat, there are further notes, including:

Too rapid operation of the trigger may cause an internal sparking which is indicated by an audible "click." This does no damage to the Zerostat but will limit the amount of ions produced during the operation. Occasionally, the "click" may sound during normal slow operation but should be ignored.

Use of elaborate electrostatic measuring equipment shows that Zerostat discharges a phonograph disc best when the final "motion" is a trigger squeeze, and the trigger is then released pointed away from the disc.

NOTE: Records may be treated whle on the turntable, but due to the earthed platter, a "tabled" disc may need three-to-five squeeze/release operations.

(For those who don’t know, "earthed" is how the British say "grounded.")

So those notes from the original Zerostat may account for the method I’ve used, since I’ve generally used it with the LP on the turntable. But I think the Zerostat 3 I have works fine with the later instructions, at least when holding the LP by hand.