thanks Wig, got it ordered.
230 responses Add your response
kclone, The Mamba V2 beats my Nanotec across the board and is cheaper. Here's where you can buy a completed PC: https://global.rakuten.com/en/store/chuya-online/item/92479/ Wig |
hmm, I have an older Mojo hanging around. can't remember what model, I bought it new about 5 years ago. I think it is in the trunk of my car, I will check it out in my system. I currently have the TWL Obsession PCs. Not unhappy at all, just curious about trying new things. Wig, are you recommending the Nanotech # 308 or the Black Mamba V2. Or both? |
Has anyone tried the WE 16/14/12/10 GA or the Duelund wire for power cables? How does it sound?I have made several of these and they sound great. On my big monoblock amplifiers I use a cross-connected quad run of the WE 10ga to the pos and neg poles (2, 10ga wires to each pole) and another two of the same wires to ground. On my preamp I use a simpler twisted pair of the 10ga (one wire each to pos and neg) with the same to ground. I have been using Furutech FI-11 (Cu) connectors with this wire. They compare very favorably with other manufactured power cords I own. In my system, the sound is full and tonally dense, similar to their wire used as speaker cables. Regarding the design, I shield all of my cords, with the shield spaced away from the pos-neg wires and with the ground wire(s) counter-spiraled outside of the shield. One could argue the quad run is overkill, even for large Class A monoblocks. Regarding who makes them, I believe this is the same wire used in the original "American Series" by TWL, for both power cables and speaker cables. I believe this wire was also used in power cords previously made by Mojo Audio. Regarding the Duelund wire, I would not use their cotton-clad-only wire for power applications. The WE wire has a plastic dielectric (and then an outside cotton covering) and others have found that suitable for power cords, but you should do your own research on the suitability of any wire you use in power applications. |
kclone, I've been on a quest for the past year in finding the best sounding bulk cable and someone from another forum found them gem and it is spectacular. I found the Nanotec # 308 to sound better in my system than all Furutech varieties and many other brands by a good margin. So, what is this PC you speak of; Oyaide Black Mamba V2 which utilizes the latest and greatest SSC 102 Copper with a conductivity of 102, unbelievable clarity, channel separation, imaging, width/depth and sound-staging... Tweek Geek does make a Deulund PC and it's quite good but this BM is something special and quite cheap, just add your favorite plugs... Got mines here; https://global.rakuten.com/en/store/chuya-online/item/92481/ Wig :) |
I tried the Dark Energy ICs and, in my system, I preferred the 20ga Duelund ICs from Parts Connexion. The latter uses Duelund Rhodium RCA connectors, is the more lively sounding of the two, and was the better match for the Dark Energy speaker cables in my system. If your system is on the bright side or you still seek a more refined sound with the Dark Energy speaker cables, the Dark Energy ICs could be a great match. Mike at Tweek Geek provides free in-home trials for both the speaker cables and ICs. Dave |
Hi cmonster, Mike at Tweek Geek sells an improved, multi-run, terminated version of the Duelund 16ga speaker wire called the "Dark Energy" speaker cable that I prefer sonically to the standard "single run" 16ga Duelund wire. Mike’s version uses three runs of the 16ga Duelund wire per + and - leg (6 runs per channel vs two for the basic unterminated Duelund wire) that is terminated with Wireworld Rhodium connectors (both spade and banana ends are provided with the cables and interchangeable by simply screwing in the desired termination into the connector’s base). Mike also applies Furutech "nano-liquid" contact enhancer and his "Sonic Tonic" inside all connector housings. https://www.tweekgeek.com/dark-energy-speaker-cables/ I found them to sound superior to the bare Duelund 16 ga wire with a more refined and relaxed (yet more naturally detailed) upper-frequency sound character while maintaining the unique golden tone of the bare Duelund wire. Mike offers free in-home trials. Dave |
@cardani I was thinking of getting a combination of spade and banana connectors on the amp end to do bi-wire from a single amp terminal. Given, how much trouble I had putting just one 10GA wire into it, I'm surprised that you were able to fit two 10GA wire in your amp terminal. Unless of course, your amp terminal is bigger. |
@cardani Very interesting. I was looking for WE 10ga on ebay and it seems supplies are dwindling compare to a year ago when I bought mine. Also, the price has gone up a bit. Where did you get your WE 10ga from? Another reason, I'm little wary of bi-wiring with 10GA is that I"ve only binding post per channel in my amp. Not sure how I can put two 10GA bare wire to fit in the terminal. How did you do it? |
@radiohead99 My experience was the opossite , read my post above, I started with single wire of WE10awg and the highs sounded thick and the lows not as articulated. When going bi wire every thing became so much better and even Dynamics and soundstage improved. I also had in mind trying to the duelund 12 ga but it was much cheaper to just get another WE10ga. |
I'm using Dueland 16GA as my speakers (Pure Audio Project Trio 15 Horn1) internal hookup wire. It replaced WE 16GA. It's still breaking in. But so far, I like the highs better. I've a question about speaker wire. Currently using WE 10GA. However, I'm planning to bi-wire. Common wisdom says to use the exact same wire and gauge for bi-wiring. That would mean double runs of 10 GA which is effectively 7GA. Is that too thick for a speaker cable? I heard thicker speaker cable can make the sound umm thick? |
I just made two sets of 3.5M long balanced interconnects using the same construction method of a twisted pair of conductors encased in a noise-reduction braided tube as a spacer, then a tinned-copper braid shield connected at only the source end and then a counter-spiraled ground wire outside the shield and connected at both ends, with the whole thing covered in clean-cut TechFlex. Both sets were made with Furutech FP-601/602(G) connectors. The difference between the two sets of ICs was the wire used. One of the sets was made from Duelund 20 awg tinned copper wire with a 18 awg ground wire and the other set was made from WE 16 awg tinned copper wire with a 14 awg ground wire. The difference between the two cables is interesting. I like them both and would choose either in comparison to a pair of the same length of high quality Furutech u-P2.1 PCOCC 19 awg interconnects I own. The Duelund 20 awg cables have nice tone and good dynamics. The larger 16 awg WE wire cables have an even fuller tone and a bold, powerful sound. The Duelund ICs do a bit more/better with the upper frequencies but I like what the larger WE wire does for bass and midrange. The WE cables are not as burned in as the Duelunds, which spent 4 days on the Cable Cooker and then a day in my system. I will burn both sets in more and report back. I am very close to having my entire system wired with the WE (or Duelund) wire, including ICs, SCs, and PCs (but not my USB cables). |
I NEED GUD SOUND ADVICE SETUP. BP9080X TOWER. BP8060 TOWERS REAR SURROUND.ALL DEF TECH 4 HEIGHT SPEAKERS IN FRONT 2 DOLBY ATMOS 2 SR9080 DEF TECH surround & 2REAR SR9080 SURROUND EMOTIVA. XPA9 GEN 3 AMP.W/XLR OUTS. SR8802A PREAMP MARANTZ WITH BASIC BEST BUY SPEAKER WIRE CAN I IMPROVE SOUND QUALITY WITH SPEAKER WIRE & XLR CABLES. UPGRADES WILL I TELL THE DIFFERENCE I'M READING ALOT OF AUDIO FORUMS THIS STUFF COST WHATS A GUD WIRE & CABLE BUDGET FOR WHAT I HAVE THXS AUDIO COMMUNITY |
Mitch2 & Grannyring; I am settled right now with a combination of both of you recommendations. I am using Bi wire 10 awg Western electric with no connectors(bare wire). Surprisingly in my system, the single wire sounded with less highs and little less defined low ended; everything changed with the biwire, better highs, clear low end, more dynamic and of of course the famous nice midrange that this cables are famous for. Thanks a lot for your inputs. Cheers, |
Just curious what the concern is of not cleaning off the oil? Possible bad connection for the speaker posts? I haven't had a problem with the 16g speaker wire where I've used it and always thought that the oil is what partly helps give Duelund it's sound. Are you guys cleaning off the oil but then applying some type of deoxit gold or furutech liquid? Just wondering what people are doing. |
Just pulled the trigger on 12 meters of DCA16GA. Hoping it's a big improvement over my AQ Type 4. Good price but very bizarre ordering process. Earlier in the thread it was mentioned that the wire should first be cleaned to remove any oils. Would rubbing alcohol on a cotton swab do? Or is another solvent better. Also I was a little surprised to see these were stranded wires instead of solid core. I had always assumed solid core was better. Is that generally true? |
janehamble For speaker cables (14ft pair) you will need to buy an 18M length of the Duelund cable and cut it into 4 equal lengths. Then twist the pairs together into a right and left set. Strip the cloth off and connect to amp and speaker. Bare wire is the way to go for speaker cables.You should check Jeff's Place for information and pictures of this. http://jeffsplace.me/wordpress/?p=10369 |
Please excuse my ignorance - I'm just learning about Dueland. For a regular speaker connection (single wired, around 14 ft) what is the process? Am I correct in understanding these wires need to be constructed and 2 wires joined together? I've noted that bare wire connections are preferred over bananas etc. thanks for your advice. |
I brought
the Duelund 16ga stranded tinned wire, actually I was in Need of Western electric cable we16g and where I live I couldn't source it and as alternative I got the
Duelund 16ga and in My rig it is sounding amazing. The previous cables I have used are 2 to 3 times expensive and Duelund 16ga provides better imaging, good extension on both end of frequency and in simple words 'better sounding' and I believe in system matching and Duelund 16ga fits perfectly. |
I still own my highly modified and upgraded set of AZ Crescendo speakers. Love them. Yes I have made many sets of ICs using the Duelund 16ga wire. I tried the 20ga and just prefer the 16Ga. The 16ga is a tad warmer and less lively. It is also more full bodied in my rig when used on some tube amps. The 20ga is more lively and for some that may be preferred. No shield, just a simply twist. |
Hi Grannyring, I have read you are making ICs from the Duelund 16ga stranded tinned wire and I am curious whether you have tried making any from their 20ga stranded tinned wire? If so, what did you hear differently between the two and which do you like better? I am about ready to make a pair but mine will be balanced using a twisted pair, spaced away shield and a ground of the same wire that is counter-spiraled outside of the shield. Thanks for any information and/or listening impressions. Also, I am curious what you are driving with your single run of WE10ga SCs - are you still using your Acoustic Zen Crescendo loudspeakers? |
Nice ride through Iowa! Awesome! Jealous for sure. Agreed on the WE10 wire. I love it. I suggest the poster try one run as I say above. Iit is possible two separate runs will sound better. But perhaps not. Depends on speakers, amp etc... In my system I found no big difference. 100 watt amp with AZ Crescendo speakers. |
I bought a bunch more of the WE10ga before I left to ride my bike across Iowa. I biwire my speakers with a pair of 10 awg wires on top and a second pair on the bottom and I have considered trying star quad runs for 7 awg to top and bottom, but haven't gotten around to it yet. As speaker cables, I think they sound great with a perfectly natural distribution of frequencies, if maybe a little mid-oriented. Bass is full, textured, and has impact when it is on the recording. Highs are smooth and natural IMO, but may not have enough emphasis for some. I am running huge current into power hungry speakers so ymmv. I use spades soldered to my cables but would not argue with those who recommend no connectors. I like soldering the tinned wire for a more direct connection with the copper below the tin coating. This wire is also perfect for power cables. I use a star quad configuration for 7 awg to my two 300wpc Class A monoblocks. A single twisted pair is just fine for front-end components and preamps. This is the same wire TWL and Mojo Audio used in their highly regarded power cords of a few years ago. |
I would not biwire. Just strip off about 5 inches and run the cable from the bottom posts to the top in a continuous run. My posts have holes that I ran the wire through. This is how I would do it. I love the WE10 on the mids and highs even more than the bass. I think you will like it better than the Kimber. Give it time to burn in however. Do not terminate....just strip and use bare wire. If you find it too warm sounding, I don't, then the Duelund 16ga would be ideal for you. |
Thanks Grannyring for WE10 link , i just order a parir which I will bi wire with my current my Kimber 8tc,,I,m also wondering about getting some 12 or 16 awg Dueland or WE for the top and leave the WE10awg for the bottom . Any Recomendations on awg for the the top? Dueland or WE?Current speakers are Gradient revolution with a x-over Point at 200hz. |
I really like this cable too. The 16ag that is. The instruments sound more real. I think it made my system more musical. I am pretty surprised to hear this much of a difference. I am running them 8ft a pair. I was wondering if it would sound better if it was longer or shorter. I know this is a subjective question but maybe someone tried different lengths to compare. I will also make some interconnects from DCA20AG. All 3.2ft a pair. Curious how this will change the sound. |