DQ-10 crossover upgrade?

You'll find the DQ-10 schematic at Yahoo Dahlquist group. Here are the cap values for later models:

C1 80 uF
C2 16 uF
C3 6.5 uF
C4 6.5 uF
C5 6.5 uF
C6 8.5 uF
C7 .1 uF
C8 .15 uF

Early models were slightly different:

C1 80 uF
C2 16 uF
C3 8.2 uF
C4 8.2 uF
C5 8.2 uF
C6 8.5 uF
C7 .1 uF
C8 .15 uF

The inductor values are:

L1 1.27 mH
L2 1.27 mH
L3 .8 mH
L4 .2 mH
L5 .5 mH

I want to change out the (C1-80uf) cap in the crossover circuit. I was told that I should only use an electrolytic in that section. Is this a good assumption or could I use a different type to keep cost to a min.

Parts express has PPE film caps that can be added up to make the correct values.  For the 6.5 UF, one coluld substitute a 6.8 uf with only a 4% error.C Since most caps come as a +/- 10% error, this is fine. Or you could run a 5.6 and a 1.0 in parallel to get6.6 uF. Two 40 uF caps make an 80, etc. One should also replace R1 and R2 with aluminum finned 25 W power resistors available on Amazon  and EBay for a few bucks each.One should also replace the Tweeter level control in the woofer box, or at minimum disassemble and clean it thoroughly. I cannot verify if PPE caps are in fact an upgrade to the Dahlquist yellow mylar caps, used in later model DQs.....but they are way better than the Electrolytics used in the first batch of DQ 10s released.

richlt5.....You have it backwards, bro. The electrolytic was used inC1 because they are a buck each. A  brand name film cap of this  same rating rating is half as big as a Coke can and costs maybe 50 bucks. Try Parts Express. They sella 75 uF PPE film cap for 20 bucks, then run a 5.6uF cap in parallel to get 80.6 uF...plenty close to speck. Within 1% = perfect. Regnar sells insanely overpriced, rebranded  PE merchandise. I have read absolutely nothing good about that company, ever.