it is my understanding, from what source i cannot recall, that the advantage to bi-wiring is in allowing the high and low end each to have their own ground. if this is what lowers interference to the signals (which makes sense) then go for it. definitely keep the cables the same type and length to maintain phase coherency. i bi-wired my acoustic energy aegis 3's and the improvement is significant, especially in the high end detail. whatever you do, i doubt you can go wrong with that type of system. |
Outlier: When I wondered about this question, I wrote to the speaker mfg and they said "yes, biwire is better, thats why we put those connectors on there. Be sure to use the same cable for both top and bottom." So, I would not try the MIT "different cable mix". Questions to you: Why would you spend $$ on more connectors for shotgunning your current cables when you can spend that money on a duplicate set of cables, which will yield better sound (less resistance) and be usable in case you change your system later. Also, factory applied connections are usually best. good luck. |
Trelja, yes, I am actually very happy with the sound of my system - I've just caught the audio 'bug' and have been eager to try out anything that will push it into an even higher gear :-) Areas that may be lacking could be soundstage and warmth - I think they are there already (no complaints really), but if I were to upgrade, that's the area I'd like to see improvement. Surprisingly, the bass is awesome - could be the help offered by the PS Audio 300 powerplant, or the Bryston Poweramp (I guess Bryston is known for an obsessive attention to the low end). Treble is also great - the Nautilus design is probably a key factor here. Cornfedboy, your suggestion on shotgunning sounds interesting - it may work well, especially considering that the individual strands fo the cable are insulated. I guess I would need four new silver lugs/spades. Not sure how to go about it though, or where to get the lugs. |
sounds like your cable can b shotgunned reterminated pretty easily. might check it out. a lot cheaper that bi-wire and damn near as good, if not = in many cases. |
Outlier, actually it would change my advice. Insulating 260 strands is quite amazing(especially to me, as I used to develop polymer coatings)! You may still want to try this type of cable, perhaps someone can lend one to you. What is it about your system that you do not like? Other than warmth(tubes), bass response(subwoofer), or room interaction, it seems your system is top notch. |
Trelja, thanks for the advice. Just to clarify, Yes, each of the 260 copper strands on the cable are individually insulated (quite amazing really!). Would this info change your advice? Thanks. |
If your speakers are set up for bi wire.Have them changed to signal wire.Connect them to a signal post.I had this done bt the MFG of my speakers and they sound much better.Bi wire is a poor man's version of BI Amping which does work.bi wire is not required. |
The thing about bi-wiring is that it effectively lowers the gauge, which is a good thing (less resistance). The other alternative you may want to consider is upgrading your jumper. Finally, if you do bi-wire, make sure they are exactly the same length. I realize electricity flies at the speed of light, but, and especially if you use anything with noticeable resistance, capacitance and inductance characteristics, it may cause phasing problems. |
I have recently added another pair of Stealth Premier cables using my B&W N804's. As I was hoping that the bi-wire would make a substantial change for the better, it didn't. The changes were very subtle for the better. I think the Premier cables are wonderful using the supplied jumpers or bi-wired but the difference was not substantial. |
Outlier, do these speaker cables have individually insulated copper conductors? I will presume they do not(too many conductors to insulate). And that is why I will recommend getting a pair of AudioQuest Indigo, Forest, Cobalt, or Midnight. Will cost you less than $200. Run them to your mid/HF binding post, and your current wire to the LF(not as critical of wire). I think you may be really surprised. The stranded wire can cause a lot of edginess, glare, haze, and shrillness. Perhaps, this may be the key to unlocking the true potential of your system. Good Luck! |
Thanks guys for the great advice. I think I'll take the plunge and get a second stereo pair for the 805s - I'll probably get the same pair as before just to be on the safe side. |
I have found the improvements from biwiring to be substantial, even over an internally biwired configuration(ie + & - from amp going to 2 sets + & - to speaker). I am told that even with an amp with a good damping factor there is enough electrical energy traveling back from the woofer down the cable to the amp to interfere with the treble/midrange signal heading to the speaker from the amp. Whatever the case true biwiring made a very noticeable difference in my system. I would also keep the cables as similar as possible, identical if possible. I have heard several systems using the same cable except "silver on top" like Gthirteen and they sounded great. Don't mix brands or geometry however. |
Here's an interesting phenomenon: WHich input do you have the cables going to? If the cable goes to the woofer posts, and the jumpers go to the tweeters, your highs will suffer. IF you go directly to the tweeters, you will get smoother highs, at the expense of bass response. I have heard that more damage is caused by going directly to the woofer, but I cant remember the science behind it, or exactly which thread (it was on audiogon) that I heard this in. I heard a difference in my system, however. I was using Audioquest SA-40 (silver, 15AWG) on my 805s. Wanting to get around the stock jumpers, I got some Audioquest CV-4 (copper, same geometry and gauge as the SA-40, however) and tried it both ways. I LOVE the Silver on top... the highs are great, with acceptible bass response. I felt that in my system, the silver cable was an all around better performer (identical cables, except for the metal) than copper. Mixing cables was definately cheaper, but if I could, I'd get another identical set of silver cables. Interestingly, I went back to the stock jumpers, and could definately immediately appreciate the (now missing) benefits of biwiring. I found the differences to be very noticeable. |
For what its worth, MIT bi-wire cables have a specific pair for high and low frequency connections. Check out the MIT Terminator 2 Bi-Wire. 1999 models cheap at AudioAdvisor.com |
As you stated biwiring will offer, or I have found to offer me very subtle improvements. If you choose to take the jump, like cables are highly recommemnded. But, I have found "happiness" is an elusive thing in the high end world, youve found it with the stuff you have, why mess it up? |
