Did I just cook my preamp?


I have a Simaudio Moon 110LP phone preamp amplifying a Dynavector 20X2L cartridge on a VPI Classic. It feeds in to an Outlaw Audio RR2160 amp which drives Magnepan LRS speakers.
 

I recently moved and two months in I realized my speaker placement wasn’t quite right, so today I reorganized my listening room. This involved unplugging some power cables but I kept most of the interconnects in place. I did have to disconnect the phone stage from the amplifier.

 

After getting things back into place, I listened to some music using coaxial input before reconnecting the interconnects of the phono stage. When I tried to, I actually got some electric current that burned my hand slightly. This came from the back of the amplifier. I made sure everything was unplugged and tried again - this time a spark and smoke from the interconnect making contact to the back of the amplifier.

 

I’m so confused why this would happen, but eventually I did get everything connected. Now the output from the phono stage is just a bump every 1 second. It doesn’t amplify the signal from the TT.

 

My amplifier has a built in phono stage and using this I was able to verify that the turntable is still producing a signal. The built in phono stage sounds terrible, however, as thin and flat as paper. It is music, however.

 

When I connect the phono stage to the power, the blue light on the front illuminates for a moment and then goes dark.

 

Incredibly, when I was unplugging the phono preamp, I actually got some current from simply touching the exterior of the box. Something is seriously wrong and dangerous with my setup, and this box was grounded to the turntable with a ground cable, which was connected to the outlet with a three prong cable with ground.

 

Has anyone experienced anything like this before? I will email Simaudio and see if they’ll repair it. I’m also taking recommendations for replacements. I liked the 110LP and maybe will just replace with the 110LPV2.

obarrett

@obarrett -  Thanks for clarifying on the connections.  I'd take @jea48 up on his offer to work with you directly.  And a nice video on showing how everything is hooked up and what happened.  A picture is worth a 1000 words.

One suggestion that I would make, and please don't take it the wrong way....  You need to cleanup your wiring. I'd also replace those plug-in 2to6 outlet adapters with at least a specifically designed AV power strip or even an old Monster Power HTS series unit from eBay if there is a budget constraint.  Those 2to6 adapters always scare me because they typically not well made and can be overloaded and shorted way to easily.

Also, check the wiring/cabling itself.  I see in the video that you have some stuff coiled up on the floor, etc.  And just to rule it out, make sure you don't have something like a cut in a power cable that has shorted to the interconnects or to one of the chassis. 

Hope you can figure out what happened and that nothing got permanently fried.

- Jeff

 

@obarrett 

When you receive the multimeter you need to read through the how to use Instruction Manual. Pay close attention to WARNINGS.

MM720 INSTRUCTION MANUAL

To ensure safe operation and service of the meter, follow these instructions. Failure to observe these warnings can result in severe injury or death. 

Page 5

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Warning or Caution

Read Instructions 

To ensure safe operation and service of this meter, follow all warnings and instructions detailed in this manual.


Risk of Electrical Shock 

Improper use of this meter can lead to risk of electrical shock. Follow all warnings and instructions detailed in this manual      

page 6

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Pay close attention to pages 5 thru 14.

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For all the testing you will be preforming the test leads are plugged into the, black lead into the Com (Common) jack and the red lead plug into the red "VΩ" jack.   ("VΩ", Volt / Ohm Jack)  Page 7

DO NOT attempt to measure continuity on a live circuit. 

Page 13.

DO NOT attempt to measure resistance on a live circuit.

Page 14

 

NEVER plug the red test probe lead plug into the  "10A" jack or  "mA/μA" jack when measuring voltages. LIVE circuits. See page 12.
That would create a dead short across the LIVE circuit.

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@obarrett 

Odds are that your phono stage's outboard power supply has a short to ground.

Linear power supplies run hot and are generally the first component to fail.

@obarrett

Curiosity killed the cat.

Assuming the subwoofer uses the EGC, (Equipment Grounding Conductor) from the 120V wall outlet,

and assuming the sub amplifier’s circuit ground is connected to the chassis, (high probability),

and therefore the return signal ground in the RCA interconnect cable is connected to the signal ground of the RR2160 amp,

And therefore the circuit signal ground of the RR2160 amp is, (high probability), connected to the chassis, either directly or indirectly, the RR2160 amp is grounded to the 120Vac wall outlet EGC.

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Therefore, the first thing I want you to check is the output voltage of the plug-in SMPS Wall Wart) for the phono preamp.

Here is a photo, I believe, is the same as yours.

plug-in SMPS. 18Vdc output.

The test:

You might want do the test on a kitchen counter top or a table.

mm meter.

Install the two test leads. Black lead in COM jack. Red lead in jack.

This test will, should, tell if the SMPS power supply has some kind of an internal fault that somehow is passing a high AC mains line voltage to the output of the power supply.

For the test you might want to use a factory OEM three wire grounding type power cord. The center offset ground IEC EGC ground contact will be used to hold the black lead probe tightly in the EGC ground contact. That will free up a hand...

Set the mm to V (volts). V is to the right side of OFF. mm will default to AC volts.

First check the wall receptacle outlet, you will be using, for the correct Hot / neutral AC polarity. At the same time you will be checking checking for an EGC ground.

Insert a test lead probe into each of the two straight slots contacts. You should measure 120Vac nominal.

FYI (If the duplex outlet is a 20A the neutral will have a "T" slot. If a 15A duplex receptacle the neutral contact will be the longer slot of the two parallel slots. Therein the Hot is the shorter of the two.

Next insert a test lead probe in the small slot Hot contact of the receptacle. Insert the other test probe in the ground hole. You may have to move the tip of the probe to one side or the other to make contact to the ground contact. You should measure, read, 120Vac nominal. The same voltage as you measured from Hot to neutral. This shows two things. The hot /neutral wiring AC polarity is correct and an EGC ground is present.

(FYI the reading could be slightly higher due to a loaded VD (Voltage Drop) on the hot and neutral circuit.)

One last test. Measure for voltage from the receptacle neutral contact to the ground contact. (Using a wall duplex receptacle I measured 1.4mV ac.

(Note. On a regular grounding type receptacle the center trim screw that holds on the outlet cover plate is also connected to the EGC ground. You can also use the screw head for the ground connection. Insert probe tip tightly against the straight recessed slot for the screwdriver to make a good electrical contact.)

FYI, use the same method above to check the two wall duplex receptacles that feed your audio system equipment, for the correct hot/neutral polarity and and the EGC is present.

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Finally, testing the plug-in SMPS.

Plug the OEM power cord into the wall 120Vac receptacle outlet. (Outlet has been checked, OK.)

Set the mm to V (volts). mm will default to AC volts.

OEM IEC power cord. Insert one test lead probe in one of the outside female contacts. Insert the other probe in the other outside female contact. You should read around 120Vac, nominal.

Insert one test lead lead probe in the center offset ground contact. Insert the other test probe in one of the outside female contacts.... From Ground to Hot contact you will measure 120Vac nominal.

Leave the test lead probe inserted in the ground contact of the IEC power cord.

Plug in the SMPS into the same duplex outlet as the OEM power cord.

Be careful, the outer sleeve contact of the SMPS power cord connector may be Hot voltage ground.

Next, depending on how much time has elapsed the MM may have to be shut off. Then turn mm selector switch back to "V" (Volts).

Next touch the other test lead probe to the outer sleeve contact of the SMPS output cord power connector. Does the mm meter display a AC voltage? How high of a voltage?

If you measure a high voltage you need to check it’s a real power voltage and not a false phantom voltage.

Remove test lead probe from the SMPS output cord connector. Turn mm selector switch to LoZ setting. (Last setting on right side of off.) Never change the selector switch with lead probes connected to a possible live voltage.)

Check for the high voltage again on the connector sleeve contact.

Also measure for a voltage to the center female contact of the power connector.

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If you did not read, measure, high voltage, or any voltage... Question... Is the SMPS 120Vac plug in blades the same width or is one wider than the other? Therein polarized. If both blades are the same reverse the SMPS 180 degrees in the receptacle and preform the test for high voltage again.

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If still there is no voltage readings, you should then check the output DC voltage of the SMPS to make sure it is working properly.

Remove test lead probe from the ground contact of OEM IEC power cord.

Test;

Set MM selector switch to "V" (volts)

Press the SEL button once to switch to DC volts. mm should display V DC.

Voltage test. 18Vdc female connector. Without touching the metal probes with your fingers... Touch, contact, the RED lead probe to the center female contact, of the power connector and touch the BLACK lead probe to the outer metal sleeve of the connector, both at the same time. You should read + 18Vdc nominal. If you do not read +18Vdc make sure you a making a good contact to the connector.

You can Also use the LoZ setting as well. Rotate the selector switch to LoZ. Press SEL button. mm should display V DC. Red lead probe to center contact. Black lead probe to outer sleeve contact on power connector.

FYI the outer sleeve electrical contact is B- negative of the DC power supply. It also should be circuit ground of the power supply and Phono preamp when connected to the preamp.

If it does not read +18Vdc? or the meter reading is + - + - + - + repeatedly 18V? Or maybe the mm is reading a higher voltage??? Note what you are seeing.

Post back the results of the testing.

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I will test now following your instructions and report back. The subwoofer plug into the wall has three prongs but when it plugs into the subwoofer it has only two. So it’s not grounded either. I will be around for the next few hours and will send messages as I proceed through your instructions. Thanks so much.