10 gauge solid core, solid copper is what you want A) because it’s likely the max code where you are, check and then double check in your area to be sure and B) stranded will likely give more audio problems as it ages.
There are times when the book calls for 10awg, or even larger, but almost never is it approved, just don’t buy anything "copper coated" (get solid copper all the way to ground) or stranded and you should be fine unless your amps are Very high powered.
If you need/can get 8awg, get solid core. |
Do you want to code? Or do you want to sound good? |
How many receptacles are you installing and what are you connecting to them. |
I use 3 wire 10 gage Romex because the wires come pre-twisted. This goes a long way to reducing common mode noise being picked up from the EMI producing computers, routers, modems, iphone chargers, alexas, etc.
If the circuit wire hot, neutral and ground are run parallel (i.e. 2-wire romex), they become very efficient EMI antennas. Doesn't matter what gage. Wires have to be twisted. That is the way to getting rid of a lot of power issues. |
@gs5556, that sounds pretty intriguing and I don't recall coming across anything like that before (i.e. the usual electrical supply houses). What is the name of that item and where did you find it?
Thanks,
John |
@ GALPI, What amplifiers do you have. Do not use (8/gauge wire for audio plugs. Run 10/3 gauge romex orange wire from panel to receptacle. I have two of these lines in my audio rig. As gs5556 said is spot (on.)
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10 gauge wire, wow that's a 30 amp breaker
Thats a lot of mojo never mind the 8 gauge
What electrical outlet could connect that gauge of wire?? I'm no electrician, just wondering |
10 gauge twisted wire is readily available at Home Depot and anywhere that sells electrical supplies.It's normally used for long runs underground.It will barely fit in an electrical outlet.It will be more than enough for your needs.
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You can run 10awg on a 20amp breaker doesn’t have to be 30amp. |
My son is an electrical contractor. He installed 2 x 10 gauge solid lines with 20 amp breakers for my Home theater. 12 gauge is minimum 20 amps. |
@ jrwaudio, Any 20 amp or 30 amp electrical outlet will connect to, 10awg wire. The point of all that (mojo) is you can not "tax"the circuit out. Now all your audio gear gets all the power it needs. And the cost is very low ..Hope that helps... |
Thanks for all the responses. I'm planning to install just 1 receptable for the entire system connected to a Nordost power strip. Turntable, phono preamp, preamp, 2x140W monoblocks, 2x800W subs, nothing too crazy. I know folks sometimes have multiple lines installed to split the amps from lower powered components, but I'm trying to avoid ground loops. Sounds like I'll be just fine with 10 gauge, twisted. |
@galpi i did basically the same. 10 gauge line (cryo’d Romex) to a quad receptacle, synergistic line filter box for for front end and direct from wall for monoblocks. No noise no complaints. Yet. |
@galpi If you can justify it, particularly if it’s new construction (as opposed to remodel), I might try to separate out your subs from the rest of the system...unless you never listen above half your available amp power (at half amp power - not halfway on your volume control). Especially if it's going to be a long cable run from your breaker box.
If a remodel, ask your electrician to explain how much rerouting, if any, he might have to do in order to balance the 2 phases (assuming you have 2 of them), because all your system circuits will have to be on the same electrical phase in order to avoid hum. But, just adding 2 system legs onto one of your existing phases and letting it go at that will likely result in the 2 phases now being out of balance (unless you plan to add 1 or 2 non-audio legs of roughly similar amperage on the opposite phase to balance it all out)...and barring that, then you’d have to look at taking an existing breaker or two and removing them from the system-side phase and move them over to the opposite phase to balance against the amperage of your system (routine work for any electrician). He should be able to estimate that ballpark cost for you.
@gs5556 Finally found the Lowes brand of twisted 10/3 in solid core (hiding from me in plain sight), which I’m considering for an upcoming remodel. That may be all I’ve seen so far, but the price is right and (I’m supposing) I can connect the extra wire to ground along with the bare conductor and get the best noise rejection without causing any noise problems, as opposed to letting the 4th conductor remain unconnected?? |
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@gs5556 10-2 Romex seems to flat with wires running in parallel, is there a twisted version? Same with Lowes from what I can tell ... |
If there's a twisted 10/2, I never ran across it. |
On the 10/3 romex, I do not use the bare copper grounding conductor; I cut it flush to the jacket at both ends. Use the red wire for grounding to the receptacle screw and the panel ground bus (don't forget to wrap the red insulation with green electrical tape in the box and panel where exposed!). In the panel, connect the ground and neutral wire as close as possible on the ground (or neutral) bus. |
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