Commercial wire for AC dedicated lines

Check local electrical codes... Buy a book...

Installing a dedicated islotated ground circuit is pretty easy thou. I just used regular commercial wire, its called Romex. I used solid core copper wire 10/2. Its 10 gauge with 2 plastic shielded wires and one bare wire, the ground is bare. These wires need to go directly from the outlet to the breaker panel. Belden does make interesting shielded wire, but the wire is stranded, I am not sure how good of an idea it is to run stranded wire to the main panel, it probely is a bad idea. New circuit breakers, why not. The 10g wire is an over kill, but this is one of the few diy things I can do for this expensive hobby. You can (by code) run 30amps over 10g wire, but if I were you I would use 20amp breakers. Plus the Wattgate is probley rated at only 20amps.

Run one wire to Hot rail, and both the netural and ground to the groung rail. KILL the power before toughing the power rails. Check with a volt meter before working in breaker box.

I noticed a big reduction in the noise floor of my system, the whole system as sounded -2 db quieter. Good luck

Yo el, from you post, it sounds like this is maybe not the thing for you...so hire an electrical contractor.
First, the "commercial grade AC wire" doesn't make sense.
There is "AC Cable" which is 3 conductor - #12 in a flexible conduit. It is used in commercial construction but probably wouldn't sound any better than Romex (12-2 w/ground) and is not fun to work with especially if you don't have the right tools.
If you want to do it right, run 3/4" EMT (electrical metal tubing) conduit from the panel to the wallbox and pull in some #12 wire from a first-name manufacturer like Purist Audio, Cardas, Kimber, Tara, Synergistic Research, Shunyata or similar. 300 feet (six conductors times 50 feet)of the better grades will keep you broke for a while. Try to match whatever your PC (power cord) is in brand and quality. On reels or "by the foot" is not the way the above mentioned manufacturers like to sell their wire, but some will. If you have money to burn and want to use silver, send me some money and I'll burn it for you and then I'll tell you why you don't want to use silver...(it tarnishes). Copper is fine and cast long grain single crystal copper is best. Purist uses cast copper and that is what I recommend.
All runs should be continuous...no splices, should be grounded to the same ground buss bar, and be kept away from other power lines, electrical equipment, etc.
After you run the conduit, shove a 75' fish-tape in and push it all the way back to the panel. Put a piece of electrical tape to mark the length. Pull the fish-tape out and then measure it to the mark to get the exact length. If you cant afford the good wire now, then get 300' of #12THHN (100' x 3 colors, Black, White, Green) and freeze it in liquid nitrogen. Then allow it to thaw slowly in a freezer for 24-48 hrs and it will sound better than anything else for the price.
Have fun.

Marty9876 is on the right track. I would suggest checking out JPS Labs. The make a wire for just your application which is superior to what you will buy at Home Depot or an electrcal supply shop. Try WWW.JPSLABS.COM

I used 10/2 romex for my dedicated lines (75ft.) with 20 amp breakers. Marty9876 has some good suggestions.

I have used the JPS "In the Wall Cable" and an very happy with it. It is 2 conductor w/ground, sheathed in a red romex type flexible cover, so was easy to snake around. It is high grade wire from some very nice people. Black and quiet.

make sure whatever you use is ul approved and meets or exceeds your local building codes.

rich

Eltonel, I hope you will not get more confused than before posting your ad…

From your distribution panel to your Wattagate outlets I would not spend a fortune in very sophisticated power “audio” cables. Keep the money to buy them “short” between your outlets and each component. Mine are MIT Z cords II with 350/330 Wattagate plugs with an excellent quality/price ratio.
Going back to your question, for a long run (50 feet) from your distribution panel to the outlets, especially if you are crossing through fluorescent tube lights, freezers, your tool shop, etc. I strongly recommend you to run a stranded and shielded cable. One of the best (industrial) cables you can find is the Olflex-590CP, specially made for power supply applications, shielded to avoid any EMI. This cable is made in Germany but is UL and CSA approved for North America. You can find out about the Olflex cables and their distributors in USA on their website: www.olflex.com
I used the 501203CP which is a 3 conductor 12 AWG cable and did 2 runs same as you, each from a different phase. On one phase I have my power amplifier and on the other one the entire front end through a PS Audio 300.
Good luck, and if you have any doubt don’t hesitate to e-mail me back.

Gecus Cany you give us some idea of the cost for the wire? Also can i just use a standard breaker in the box?

Thanks

Forgot the most important part, if you think you need 50ft of wire, buy 75ft or more.....

For those who are curious, the JPS Labs In-wall Power AC cable is UL listed. - Rich

The approximate price of the Olflex-590CP cable model 501203CP (depending on your distributor) should go "maximum" around 10 $ / meter (3.3 $ / ft). This price is buying less than 100 feet. Buying more than 200 feet you can get an extra discount.