Cartridge Opinions - Sorry


Yeah, another dumb "what's your opinion on these cartridges" thread. Back in the late 80's we had dealers where you could listen to the stuff.

So anyhow I have a Linn LP12 with Ittok arm and a 30 year old Audioquest B200L cartridge. I'm running it through the phono stage of a Jeff Rowland Coherence One into a Spectral DMA90 through a set of Kef R300's.

I prefer a little more laid back sound (err on the side of forgiving instead of fatiguing) but I like a lot of upper end detail, precise soundstaging, air, etc.

So far I'm considering an Ortofon Quintet S Black, Hana SL or a Benz wood - something at or below the $1k level.

I'd love to hear any opinions, suggestions, and experiences with those cartridges or others in the price range. I could possibly go higher if there is something out there that really shines for less than $1,500.

Thanks.


klooker

Showing 8 responses by kennyc

@rauliruegas
You could have simply Googled “turntable cartridge cantilever” then look at the illustrations/pics, but I’ll try to explain in words.
Generally, turntable cartridge is constructed with body (shell), coils, magnets, suspension (for cantilever), cantilever, stylus (diamond), and I guess adhesive. The cantilever is that stick on which the stylus (diamond) is attached with some sort of adhesive. 
The tonearm is what you attach the cartridge to on one side, the turntable to the other. Google “turntable tonearm”.

You’re still missing the point of manufacturing inconsistencies. 99.99..% of any manufacturing is NOT 100% consistently accurate- there’s always some variations. While computer tolerances can be controlled to get tighter/better tolerances (accuracy), one can never achieve a consistent 100%. This is common manufacturing knowledge. Also, it’s also common knowledge that computer controlled manufacturing is significantly more accurate that manual (by hand) manufacturing.

Imagine that a seasoned cartridge artisan is looking under a microscope fixing some adhesive (like a dab of glue), then placing the stylus (diamond) on top of the glue. Construction under a microscope is no easy task. The stylus is NOT mounted a consistent 90 degrees front to back AND side to side, there’s always some minute variation. Also, the stylus is NOT mounted perfectly parallel to the cartridge body and there are some left/right variations. With a large enough cartridge sample and a microscope, you can easily see these variations.

Google “turntable cartridge stylus microscope pics” - maybe this will help you to realize stylus to cantilever mounting can easily be less than perfect.
If you still don’t understand this, I can’t help you.

So, are these cartridge construction inconsistencies audible? Yes. These teeny tiny electrical signals are being amplified many times to line level (so a preamplifier can use) then multiplied many times again (amplifier) before hitting your speakers. The more transparent your system, the easier to hear these differences.

Are these cartridge construction inconsistencies important? That’s a subjective judgement question. As mentioned before, you can get good to great sound using the tools/methodologies mentioned, and for some/most that may be good enough.

But to “optimize” (get the very best sound) you have to get your specific cartridge’s “stylus” to be “perfectly” parallel to the groove, “perfectly” perpendicular 90 degrees from the front, and 92 degrees from the side.

When using a cartridge protractor you’re indexing (comparing) to either the cartridge body or the cartridge cantilever. This method “assumes” that the stylus is perfectly mounted parallel to the body/cantilever which is not the case because of manufacturing variations. It may be “good enough” but not “optimal”.

I’m not arguing that “P2S distance, off-set angle, overhang, VTF, VTA/SRA, Azymuth...”, is not important- it all matters. But if you want to “optimize”, you’ll have to spend considerable time/effort to go further.

Cartridge “optimization” is typically not known/performed by most, but for seasoned audio professionals like dealers, and seasoned audiophiles especially with Uber systems, or audiophiles trying to maximize performance, this is fairly common knowledge.
@atmasphere 
thanks for the advice.  Earlier I thought “atmasphere is lucky to have dodged this exercise”.  
The idea behind the Hana is to use the knowledge/experience of well seasoned high-end cartridge engineers, coupled with quality ready available parts to keep costs down.  This recipe has been a huge success.
There are a great sounding cartridges mentioned in the thread, but the price/performance of the Hana line is tough to beat.  That’s why they sell so many of them while garnishing many positive reviews.  The Hana assembly line is shared by far more expensive cartridges - seasoned experience and expertise.  
I fail to understand the purpose of ranking components by value. I see often contentious posts:
Cartridge vs cartridge setup
Cartridge vs cartridge+tonearm

Everything in the audio chain matters.
Do cartridges sound different? Yes
Is a subpar cartridge audible? Yes
Do tonearms affect the sound? Yes
Does platter surfaces affect the sound? Yes
Does platter material affect the sound? Yes
Does....Yes.... you get the picture

The entire audio chain matters. With the exception of those who buy pretty, most of us do a cost/benefit or more specificity a price/performance analysis to evaluate components as 99.9% of us have budgetary constraints (limited bank accounts). When we elevate our audio chains, we look at affordable upticks and address bottlenecks (weak links). If, for example, I continuously upgrade my audio chain with the exception of speakers, it’s likely that my speakers will become my weakest link.

We each have unique audio chains with various strengths/weakness links. Other than starting arguments, what’s the purpose of ranking? Since when does “this is better than that” trump the importance of maximum audio performance by maximizing audio chain components?

Forgive me if I’m reading this wrong, it may be that good to great cartridge setups commonly exists, in @atmasphere experience of “optimum” cartridge setup by others is rare. When you think about a stylus in the groove, is a very minuscule stylus/diamond tilt audible? Absolutely!

What complicates setup is that less than perfect stylus to cantilever mating is common, and occasionally the cantilever is less than perfectly mounted. Most will align using the cartridge body which doesn’t address this less than perfect mating/mounting. From the side, I surmise that few mount it to the ideal 92degrees or to whatever one seems ideal. I also surmise that few check the accuracy of stylus to cantilever mating. Now granted there are a few talented experienced folk that can reach optimization by ear, but many/most have not experienced “optimum”. @atmasphere seems to be alluding that there’s much more performance that can be wrung out of your existing cartridge if it is not yet optimized.

@rauliruegas
“i can add that almost everyone knows that it's the cantilever/stylus the ones that be align in the protractor.“
I think you missed my point
First, it appears you’re confusing cartridge cantilever with tonearm.  
Second, I’m referring to manufacturing inconsistencies whose point you appear to miss.

Many/most who purchased a cartridge act/assume like both cartridge cantilever and the stylus are “perfectly” mounted which is not the case.  Cartridges are not commodities where everything is the same, nor automated assembly lines where tolerances can be closely monitored.  They are usually hand crafted by gifted artisans as such there are variations from cartridge to cartridge - teeny tiny variations of the stylus angles can have a significant audible affect.  Certain manufacturers have a reputation for consistency in their stylus and cantilever mountings, others not so much.  Some cartridges have to be returned because the stylus was mounted badly.    

I’m not an authority on how to “optimize” a cartridge as I’m currently wading through this subject, but I’ll pass along what I know so far.  You’ll need magnification to inspect the quality of mountings for your specific cartridge.  Michael Fremer suggests using a usb microscope to achieve 92 degrees stylus to groove angle as viewed from the cartridge side, and check the verticality 90 degrees from the front. This stylus to groove adjustment method circumvents the inconsistent stylus to cantilever and the cantilever to body issues making them both moot.   I’ve also read that after cartridge break in, angles may change so need readjustment.  There’s also Analog Magik cartridge setup software which I’ve yet to explore/research.

To adjust zenith, using a quality protractor is an valuable tool.  But if you want to “optimize” your cartridge, you can’t automatically assume that the cartridge cantilever is “perfectly parallel” to the cartridge body because of manufacturing variations as mentioned above

”Optimizing” your cartridge takes significantly more time/patience/effort, but it’s free (not counting any additional tool purchases) and will pay dividends for all your cartridges - for now and future purchases.
@rauliruegasI just found out you have a very highly resolving relatively expensive system that can justify spending $ for optimization.

Get your cartridges optimize- get/hire a knowledgable cartridge optimization professional (maybe a seasoned dealer) to install on your turntable and learn from the experience. Make sure that they’re “optimizing” and not just installing. You’ll hear and appreciate the difference. Your system is much too good to leave performance on the table.

Also at your system’s level, it may be beneficial to track WBF where folks with some of the best systems available focus on performance rather than cost.

92 degrees explained
https://www.analogplanet.com/content/how-use-usb-digital-microscope-set-92-degree-stylus-rake-angle-...
@rauliruegas
I was simply defining “optimum” cartridge setup means getting the stylus angles correct. There are many roads on how to get there, I’m still learning how but I listed some methods/tools that I need to further explore as mentioned in my previous post.

When you use a protractor to align your cartridge to the null points, how do you know that at these null points that the stylus is perfectly parallel to the groove and are at the correct angles, given manufacturing inconsistencies?

Also, you’re getting your angles mixed up. 90-92 degrees is measured vertically, while null points (zenith) is measured horizontal. Therefore, once vertical is set up, it should remain the same across the entire record surface.

What do you think the various angles: SRA, VTA, azimuth, zenith, is trying to achieve? Answer: to align the stylus, not the body, not the cantilever, but the stylus. Cartridge “optimization” is simply getting the best stylus to groove angles and VTF.

And no, it isn’t just my experience. I know the problem, but am still learning the solution aka I know what “optimum” is trying to achieve, but I’m still learning how to get there. I first learned the 92 degrees from Michael Fremer (Stereophile), and Jonathan Valin (The Absolute Sound) recently mentioned the 92 degrees in his current review of the DS Audio Master1 cartridge.

I’ve spent the last 4 years doing in-depth audio research to create a maximum price/performance analog+digital chain while minimizing sound quality loss. Many very serious audiophiles often with expensive highly transparent systems maximize their system’s performance including cartridge optimization. Many of these tips I’ve learned on WBF (Whats Best Forum). The more transparent your system, the better you’ll hear the benefits of cartridge optimization.

Because I plan to be switching cartridges, I’m learning how to optimize for myself (as opposed to hiring someone to set it up for you). My strategy to learning cartridge optimization is to first research available setup tools such as protractors, usb microscopes, software, etc. Next is to learn directly from at least 1 seasoned dealer/professional by asking questions and watching them install my cartridge. I will then finalize the tools and methodology. With enough experience of what is optimal, I hope to eventually be able to make the final adjustments by ear.

This 4th post on this subject will likely be the last because of fatigue - I’m quickly losing interest in continuing this tedious topic