CARDAS CCGR-S BINDING POSTS FOR MAGGIE 1,7i


I want to replace the original MAGNEPAN binding posts with the Cardas CCGR-S in my MAGGIE 1,7i.

Is there any modification needed? I do not want to intervene into original binding post plate. Does anyone have any experience with this?


dvinkl
As long as you get the "S" version(short), of the Cardas posts, you won’t have to modify anything on the 1.7i plate. The stock holes are the same width, as standard, 5-Way/banana, mountings(iow: Correct, to facilitate use of the standard insulator plate, provided by Cardas). I’ve done the same upgrade, to my past four pairs of Maggie’s models(including the 1.7i).

Thanks for your response Rodman99999!

That means I can use the original Cardas CCGR-S insulator plate?

Is there no need to split them anyway? Did you replace the both pair of the speaker?

Is that upgrade worth the money? How does they sound?

There are a lot of issues, but I would be very appreciated for your answers.

1) Yes, the Cardas insulator plate’s width, matches the original Magnepan holes(both are standard 5-Way dimensions). 2) No, I’ve always(only) upgraded the stock, Stainless Steel(yuck) Input binding posts, with better 5-Ways. Then- internally bypassed the fuse holder and tweeter attenuation circuits. 3) I noticed a cleaner(less high-freq grain) presentation, with every model. But- always addressed everything at once, so- cannot specifically attribute the improvement, to any particular step(sorry). Caveat: Bypassing the fuse, means NEVER clipping/over-driving your power amp(or, bye-bye tweeter).

OK, thanks.

I will replace the binding posts first. I am using HI-FI TUNING  SUPREME3 silver fuses. currently.

Greetings from Europe.

The Magnepan fuse holder and speaker cable terminals have ferrous parts, and replacing the stock fuse with a Supreme 3 won't cure that! Lots of guys on the Planar Speaker Asylum---hard-core Maggie owners---have bypassed the whole Magenpan hook-up arrangement, including the fuse holder, and replaced the stock speaker cable terminals with Cardas binding posts. A set of the Cardas posts may be cheaper than a pair of boutique fuses!

Yes, I read a lot bad things of the Magnepan's fuse holders, but I think I am not skilled enough to do that. Did you make such a modification so far?

Post removed 
One only need move one wire, to bypass both the fuse holder and tweeter attenuator posts. They are in a series circuit. Find the wire that connects the two. Remove the wire, at the opposite end of the fuse holder from that, and connect it to the opposite end of the attenuator posts.                                                                                                                            ie: wire -------1(fuse block)2---wire----3(attenuator posts)4----wire (remove wire from connection 1 and move it to connection 4)
Like Rodman, says the fuse holder and other unnecessary parts are in series. The wires are not soldered onto the speaker cable terminals, they are soldered onto "O" rings that slip onto the back of the terminals. When you removed those terminals, just don't put the O rings onto the Cardas posts. No cutting of any wires is required. Very simple and easy, even I could do it!
this post make me wonder when audiogon will get w modern world and facilitate photos in posts..... argh

i use the  Cardas binding posts in many projects, fantastic!,,,

reviving this old gem of a post

thinking about doing this minor surgery to my maggies

maybe i will use my 1.7i set as guinea pigs before doing it efficiently and confidently on my 3.7i’s

now that we can post pics and links, can any of the commenters on this older thread chime in?  ... or links to other sites showing this minor mod using quality cardas binding posts would be most helpful

many thanks