Can using a bad tube hurt an amplifier?

  I had this happen about 5-6 years ago with my Had Inspire SEP amp. It’s auto bias for the two power tubes and also will take multiple value rectifier tubes allowing me to raise or lower the voltage. It takes EL-34 to KT-150 and I can run any combo of power and rectifier tube. I had a new pair of GL KT-77’s that were at approximately 100 hours. I heard a loud pop from the amp and a really loud bang from my left speaker. I immediately hit the power switch and saw a wisp of smoke coming from inside the chassis. The tube never changed appearance when this happened and the left channel went dead. I took off the bottom plate and discovered the entire internals were coated with paper, oil and foil from the explosion. Also a large resistor exploded and together they generated enough force to break the terminal strip that the circuit was attached to. I shipped it to Dennis for repair and included the two power tubes for him to test. He confirmed that I had a “ Run Away “ tube. The vendor refunded the tubes and I paid for the damage. Another time I had a 6550 tube pop due to the glass envelope failing. I heard the sound and turned off the amp. The tube had a fracture that ran top to bottom and was completely white on the inside of the glass. There was zero damage to the amp, and I just replaced the one tube. Shit Happens when you run tubes, it’s part of the lifestyle. Cheers , Mike B. 

The problem I had was the tubes were fine for several months.  And then one day within 20 minutes one of the tubes started over heating and glowing alot more  it wasn’t the glowing tube that was the problem it was another tube in the same series, since they’re all connected.  all the tubes test fine it’s just that one of the tubes begin having voltage problems after 20 minutes. Very difficult to diagnose when you have many tubes.

There’s no way to predict this.  These were NOS tubes, presumably supposed to be higher quality than the new stuff.

I feel your pain. I was recently gifted a pair of Rogue M-180’s with one needing repair. But I still wanted to see what happened. I changed tubes , tried different things and two things would happen. One was a horrible super loud droning that I feared would blow my speaker. The other thing that happened was the music would play with a very very slight harmonic distortion. Also turning the amp off caused noise. I shipped them both to Rogue for diagnosis and repair. The issue was a single resistor in the circuit of the single 12AX7 phase tube. However I was told that the bridge rectifiers in both amps were weak and I should repair. My solution was to spring for the $2500 Dark Upgrade and then get 8 new power tubes and 6  new NOS signal tubes, 3 for each amp. I have $2500 for the upgrade which included new Vishay resistors , Hex Fred diodes new larger capacitors , some wiring and Cardas speaker terminals. With tubes and shipping I’m at $4K for my free amps. It’s always something, and I wish we had a local tech. Yes we suffer reliably issues, tube issues and the jabs from the SS crowd and now the class D crowd. And I’m happy right in the middle of my domain. Stay strong brother , and I’ll meet on the Road To Happy Destiny, or at least Tube Addicts Anonymous. Much Respect , Mike B. 

@buellrider97 

Yes we suffer reliably issues, tube issues and the jabs from the SS crowd and now the class D crowd. 

but those other amps are not bulletproof, I might argue they are no more reliable than tube amps. I wouldn't say I was an early adopter for class D amps, but both the Nord's I bought about ten years ago with the Hypex smps1200a400 power supplies lasted exactly 4 years before they expired. They have since revised them, with elimination of one prone to fail capacitor- not sure if they last longer now. 

I have also had issues with Mcintosh amps. Nothing lasts forever. 

Is it -1 for tubes or +1 for SS? Who’s keeping score?